2004 - Scotland, Ireland, England and Wales – a Home Run.
2004 was a funny old year. Generally speaking the weather was pretty awful and yet we managed to have some quite good cruising and to enjoy a lot of it. Only a few of our plans worked out but what took their place was just fine in the end. It went to show a) that the best laid plans of mice and men gang astray and b) that it’s best when cruising to stay absolutely flexible!
Faustina II left her home port of Portaferry in on 11 June with just Ann and myself aboard and turned north en route to Scotland. After a very mixed day of good wind, no wind and dead ahead wind we moored in Glenarm that evening – at which point I realised that I hadn’t topped up the fuel. We made very complex arrangements to get a tanker to the marina but, by the time it arrived, there was no vehicle access as the HM had gone home and it had to leave us un-fuelled. I decided that we should play safe before heading up the Scottish west coast and that we should return to Bangor next day. We did that, refuelled and popped home for an hour or so. That evening we set off north again and reached Red Bay well after dark. We tried anchoring off the jetty just north of Waterfoot but youths on the shore shouted at us very crudely and we withdrew to the south to anchor without company.
Next day we put our nose into Gigha at about lunchtime. The weather was cold and grey and the bay didn’t look inviting so we pushed on to spend the night at Ardfern marina (where of course I could have got fuel!). We ate well at the ‘Galley of Lorne’ and watched England losing 2-1 to France on the box.
Next morning (Mon 14 June) we bought some essentials (and a few non-essentials) at the brilliant marina chandlery. I wish all chandleries were as good as this one. Then on north through the Dorus Mor towards Cuan Sound. The vis became so poor that I stopped for a while to really plan the transit of the Cuan Sound in detail. In the end it was no problem though it was cold, drizzly and grey. We turned into the Sound of Mull against a 20kt headwind – and I decided that enough was enough. We went into Loch Aline and anchored on the starboard side inside the entrance, turned on the heater and stayed warm and secure for the night.
We passed Tobermory at midday next day and with the wind still OTN we headed for and rounded Ardnamurchan Point. During the afternoon the wind improved until we were bowling along, past Mallaig and up the Sound of Sleat. We were overtaken by a small flotilla of German minesweepers (should we have been listening to the news?) and we passed through Kyle Rhea just before the tide turned against us. That evening we took a mooring that we found in Totaig Bay opposite the impressive island castle of Eilean Donan.
It was so vile outside next morning that we just went back to bed! Later I worked up the energy to clean and grease 6 winches (not my favourite job!). We did boat jobs all day and then, in the evening, fortified by a G&T, we went in Poppy, our RIB, to look at the castle. Heavy rain from really low clouds drove us back to the boat and an early night.
Ann made bread as we made across to Kyleakin next morning. We wanted water but unbelievably water via a hose was not possible at Kyleakin. We crossed to the north side at the jetty at the Lochalsh Hotel where we topped up from a Council provided tap and pipe and did a spot of food shopping. Then we were away under the Skye bridge, on to the north against a N3 wind, and along the Inner Sound towards our planned destination at Loch Torridon. That night we anchored in Upper Loch Torridon at Alligin Shuas (I don’t what all these names mean either!) despite the quite unwanted directions from a manic RORC member who clearly felt that we weren’t doing it right. We managed.
We had come all this way simply to visit Ann’s niece who is the owner of the Tigh an Eilean Hotel at Shieldaig in Loch Torridon. Cathryn had bought the hotel a few years ago and I can only say that it’s a great hotel, pub and shop. They won the Sunday Times ‘Best Small Hotel in Scotland’ award in 2004 - so others agree with me. We took the boat 2 miles or so to anchor off the hotel for a while. However the weather didn’t make it a safe overnight anchorage and so we returned to the well-sheltered Alligin Shuas anchorage - but not before we had had a wonderful walk and a superb meal at the hotel with and as a guest of the owner.
We tested the hotel anchorage again next morning but I still wasn’t happy about it. We returned to Upper Loch Torridon, anchored and then took the RIB to the headland from where we could walk the 2 miles along paths to the hotel. Then in Cathryn’s car we went exploring to the north, the main aim being a visit to the Inverewe gardens. They were ‘ok’ but it rained and no garden is at its best (especially to a non-gardener like me) in the rain. It bucketed down as we returned to Shieldaig where we had supper in the pub and then walked back to the RIB and so back to Faustina II.
We went south to Plockton next day. It was cold and nasty but the wind was behind us for a change. For the first-timer the entrance to Plockton is a little tricky, but the village and anchorage is well worth a visit. We were advised in the village that there are about 6 visitors moorings tucked away at the head of the bay (a fact not noted in the CCC pilot book) and so we able to lie securely whilst we explored and ate ashore in the Plockton Hotel. I noted that evening that the wind had gone down and that the sun was trying to come out – some improvement!
I visited the small Plockton PO next morning where they offered Internet facilities, – one computer. I wanted to update the ICC web site. The service was so slow that more time was spent talking to the delightful postmistress and to customers than actually doing things to the web site. It was so slow in fact that the nice lady couldn’t bring herself to charge for the service when I finally gave up after an hour or so. We slipped at lunchtime, went south under the Skye Bridge again, through Kyle Rhea with the tide and anchored in the lee of the Sandaig Islands (of ‘Ring of Bright Water’ fame). It is a lovely spot. We took ‘Poppy’ all through the islands, landed for a walk and then collected mussels that Ann prepared for supper in wine and onions. Delicious.
Nly gales were forecast for later but in the morning we set off south again in warm sunshine. Ann even sunbathed. We passed by Mallaig at midday and decided to go into Arisaig. It was reported to be a pretty place but the entrance is another interesting bit of pilotage. It actually wasn’t difficult though in a note later to the CCC pilot book compiler I felt that the perches could be described rather more comprehensively. It was about 1½ hrs before LW as we went in and being able to see the rocks helps. We anchored for the night. The moorings and anchorage are private and a fee is payable.
The NE wind was pretty fresh in the morning and we initially decided to stay put. However after breakfast it moderated somewhat and the rain set in. We decided to at least go round Ardnamurchan. We went alongside the pontoon to get water and were honked at continuously and pathetically by a baby seal that stayed alongside the boat. It appeared to have lost its mother. After the Rhum ferry had departed we went alongside its jetty to take on fuel. We had a walk, shopped for food, slipped mid-morning and were past Ardnamurchan by 1430 with just the Yankee pulling us along at 6 kts through the grey murk and occasional rain. We anchored in Loch Drumbuie at 1700 – and the rain just – well, rained – and hard.
We debated about going south outside Mull next day, but Ann ‘won’ and we stayed inside. There was now a SWly gale forecast! We went down the Sound with only the Yankee doing the pulling, passed Duart Castle and around the corner into Loch Spelve. We motored up to the NE corner and anchored securely there amid the mussel farms. It’s a lovely quiet spot. The following morning was fine and we weighed soon after breakfast and headed south towards the Sound of Cuan. I had thought to go through the Sound of Luing but found that I didn’t have a chart that gave me enough detail given the increasing poor conditions that came on during the morning. So we went back through Cuan, through Dorus Mor and along to Ardfern again. We had found this to be a friendly and well-run marina. We bought some wheels to help us drag Poppy up beaches and Ann started work on some new cushions for the boat. That evening we gave a drinks party on board for some Americans and by the end of the evening had virtually contracted to go down the Grand Canyon in rafts for 3 weeks in 2006 – an adventure that is still on! The promised vile wind and weather duly arrived next day and we stayed put. Ann made more cushions and I went to the village hall to use their Internet and we both went to a community curry dinner at the hall in aid of funds for its rebuild. Friendly folk.
Next morning (Sun 27 June) we were away early and were clear of Loch Craignish by 0930 and heading south again. The wind was SW 3 and so we had to motor. During the afternoon the wind veered to allow some sailing aided by the engine. I stopped the engine at 1600 and we sailed the last 20 miles or so to the west side of Rathlin Is, making a good 7 kts. The tide was creating rough seas off the island but they soon flattened out and we reached Ballycastle marina at 1900. We left Faustina II there for two days whilst we home.
We were back on board with our new crew, Sheilah B on 29th June. The plan had been to go around the west coast of Ireland to join the 75th Anniversary Rally. The forecasts were dire but we held off a decision for another day whilst the three of us paid an interesting visit to Rathlin – by ferry! We had a great walk over to the north coast and along to the lighthouse on the east point. Next day the weather was fine but the wind was strong from the south and the forecast was still bad. Reluctantly we gave up on the west coast idea and set off down the east coast of Ireland with no great anticipation of pleasure from that generally dull coastline. We stopped to refuel at Bangor and fixed an electrical problem and then, over the next few days went on to Ardglass, Howth, Arklow and wonderful Kilmore Quay where the HM never fails to be helpful.
On 6 July I actually managed to use the Cruising Chute, which took us gently across Hook Bay and part of the way up the river towards Waterford. We lost the wind and started the engine at Duncannon, which was just as well as there were about eight salmon nets across the river to be avoided. We stayed at Waterford for 2 days enjoying the tourist attractions. No HM appeared during our visit and we learnt from friendly boaters how to get a gate ‘key’ and from where to buy the card need to obtain power. We greatly enjoyed Waterford and the run up the river to the city is lovely too. Sheilah left us to return home.
Ann and I were away at 0500 on Friday in order to use the tide out to the sea. We were abeam Dunmore East by 0700 and turned west under sail, passing Capel I and Ballycotton. We entered Oyster Haven and fastened to a private mooring buoy. The weather by now had relented and it was a beautiful quiet evening.
We rounded Old Man of Kinsale next morning – it was again grey, overcast and cold. We bumped across Courtmacsherry and Clonakilty Bays, bypassed our original destination of Castletownshend and turned through the Gascanane Sound and into Schull where we anchored. My birthday was next day (Sun 11 July) and we stayed anchored at Schull and had a long walk and later a rather poor meal ashore. We stayed another day and took on water and fuel and, got some laundry done. (On our boat, laundry completed = happiness!) On Tuesday we were joined by Patrick and Mary K (ICC) with whom, on Wednesday, we sailed around to Castletownshend and a good meal at ‘Mary Ann’s’.
The following 10 days were taken up enjoying the Cruise in Company. We went to Kinsale and were joined by Ronnie and Hazel B(ICC). We visited Glandore/Union Hall from whence Ann and I made a trip – with a lift both ways - to Skibbereen to buy an essential item from the excellent chandlery there. The on to Castletownshend (again!), Fastnet and Schull, two nights at Adrigole and finally Glengarriff. Amazingly the large number of boats attending the rally never really appeared to be a problem (except perhaps at Kinsale Marina) but there were probably rather too many people at the functions to make it quite as much fun as a smaller Rally. The organisation was splendid and we were certainly glad that we had been there.
From Glengarriff Patrick and Mary went home, but the others stayed with us as we made our way back to Kinsale. In keeping with the generally contrary weather that we had had for most of the trip to date, the wind was blowing freshly from the west as we struggled towards Sheep’s Head. We motored for a while and then when we had got to a position where sailing was feasible without tacking we had a good sail towards the Head. However Ann wanted peace for her lunch preparations and so we heaved-to for a while a few miles to the NE of the headland. Having been fed we went on around Three Castles Head and Mizen Head and anchored in Crookhaven at 1600. We invited the crew of Carragheen, Michael M(ICC) and Peter B (ICC) to join us for supper on board and we had a very jolly evening.
We had a dead run next day as we passed to the north of Cape Clear Is and then out through Gascanane Sound en route to Glandore. There I had to replace a blocked loo pipe (with a lot of expletives) but I was rewarded with a good meal at the Marina Hotel. The next morning we went to Crosshaven and moored for the night at the RCYC. Next day we motored up to Cork to see the sights! It’s an interesting trip up the river and it was easy to moor near the first road bridge in the city centre whilst we visited the very comprehensively stocked chandlery there. We returned to the RCYC and had a ‘sailing supper’ in the club. Next day we left the boat in the care of the RCYC and the rain lashed down and totally soaked us all as we boarded the Barr’s car to be driven back to our home in the North.
Ann and I were back on board 6 days later on 4 August, having travelled south by train free of charge. We refuelled Faustina at the Scalpe Marina. Our plan was to go now to the Isles of Scilly en route to Brittany. However the wind, true to practice, would be directly on the nose and so we went around to Oyster Haven to await a change of wind direction forecast for later in the day. We anchored. The wind changed direction several times and the rain came in hard. It was not a hard decision to stay put until things cheered up a bit. It’s supposed to be fun!
We got away again early next morning with the wind out of the west. The seas were rolly and a main preventer became necessary. We left the Kinsale Oil Field a mile to port. The sun came out and it even became quite warm. The wind died in the early afternoon and we motored on with dolphins paying a couple of welcome visits. And so things continued until we reached the New Grimsby Sound in the north of the Scillies at 0330. There are no lights there and the vis had become poor, so we circled for a while until it became light enough to see our way into the anchorage between Tresco and Bryher. Actually it was an anchorage when I was last there many years ago – moorings have now been laid and one would have to admit that these are probably safer (though more expensive) to use than an anchor in this place near to Cromwell’s Castle. We dozed until lunchtime and then went ashore to visit the Tresco Tropical Gardens. They are beautifully laid out. The entrance fee is £8.50 pp and the main flowers then on show were agapanthus – sprouting like weeds.
That was Sat 7 August. We rather sadly gave up on the idea of going on to Brittany as the wind was firmly SE and forecast to stay there for a few days. We stayed in the Scillies for a week and that turned out to be just fine. They are really beautiful and there is a lot to explore both by boat and on foot.
On Sunday we walked on Tresco and got both hot and wet and had a seriously expensive lunch at the very smart Island Hotel. On Monday we took Faustina II south across the Tresco Flats. The Flats (or shallows) look rather daunting on the chart but at half tide and above they were not a problem for our 1.5m draft. We had set off to go to Hugh Town on St Mary’s but we decided instead to go to anchor at St Agnes. There we walked ashore to the old lighthouse and had a splendid pasty (me) and crab sandwich (Ann) for lunch. Good local food. It was a lovely sunny day and a nice place but I thought that the depth of the anchorage would get a little thin at LW. We opted to return to New Grimsby and went there by going west outside all dangers. There was quite big swell and the seas pounding onto the outlying rocks with clouds of spray were a good reminder of their dangers and of all the ships that have foundered in the area over the years.
Overnight there was thunder and vivid lightning. We decided again to visit Hugh Town and so once more crossed the Tresco Flats and took a mooring off the town jetty used by the mainland ferry. Hugh Town is the capital of the Scillies and there are many good strong moorings laid for visitors. It was however rolly and not very comfortable. Rain was all about. A fellow yachtsman came over kindly to admire Faustina II and he suggested that we might like the anchorage at St Helen’s Pool to the east of Tresco. We piloted our way there through heavy rain showers but despite the fact that the Pool is lovely, there wasn’t much shelter and I decided that New Grimsby would again be preferable. We left to the north and went close by Round Is and its lighthouse. There were no mooring buoys free and so this time we had to anchor. We walked for while on Bryher before crossing to Tresco for a pub meal in the excellent New Inn.
We stayed another two days in New Grimsby relaxing and walking. There was one drama. That was when we tried to weigh our anchor to move onto a mooring buoy when worse weather was forecast. The anchor came up firmly embedded in the loop on the end of a very old and rusty wire hawser. Some intrepid ‘yachting’ (as Ann calls it) got us loose after about 30 minutes of hard work.
On Sat 14 August we left the Scillies and sailed eat towards Lands End and, passing about 6 miles north of Cape Cornwall, we reached Padstow in mid-afternoon. The harbour gate was open and we entered to find it remarkably empty compared with our visit last year. We moored alongside the wall close under the gaze of the many tourists who ate their fish and chips or ice creams over-looking the cockpit. Eleanda with Nigel and Heleen Lindsay-Fynn was across the other side of the harbour (they had of course been on the ICC Rally) and we visited them for a drink. Later we invited a Welsh couple from a neighbouring boat to drinks on Faustina II. We had to kick them out at nearly midnight!
Next day we went for a six-mile hike out to the Daymark and back, and in the evening, after a short return match with our Welsh neighbours, we had an excellent meal at the Ebb restaurant. We were away at 0530 next morning for the crossing of the Bristol Channel to Milford Haven. We managed to sail nearly all the way but the sea was aggravatingly bumpy and uncomfortable. We arrived at 1730. I have heard many people say that they don’t like Milford Haven, but I do, and I certainly appreciate Dale when its nasty outside. It was there that we anchored (as we usually do) for a quiet night.
The next day was very special as my daughter, her husband and their three young daughters, who were holidaying in Wales, came to join us for the day. Several memorable events occurred. The first was that we were boarded by police who required us to complete the same ‘pink card’ that they had required of us last year. An ‘anti- terrorism’ measure. The boat was swabbed down to see if any drugs were aboard and we had to prove our identity. All very pleasantly done (as it was last year) but why does it only happen to us in Milford Haven? My granddaughters were greatly diverted by all this! After we were ‘released’ from the interest of the police we moved up into the harbour and anchored for lunch near the RNLI boathouse. Almost immediately a ‘maroon’ went off and shortly afterwards the lifeboat came down the ramp and entered the water with a most satisfactory splash. Later we saw the Trinity House vessel ‘Patricia’ lifting a buoy to do some maintenance. We went on as far as the big road bridge and then returned to Dale. The weather had remained fine all day – we were very lucky – but no sooner had I landed my daughter and the gang than it began to rain very hard indeed. We stayed at anchor overnight. The wind freshened and we decided that we would stay another day until it relented somewhat.
Finally on Thu 19 August we set off for Arklow - although I didn’t make a final decision about our destination for some hours. The swell was quite big but the tide carried us quickly past Skomer Is. and up to the South Bishop LH. I had kept in contact with the CG updating them with my options – Fishguard, return to Milford Haven or on to Arklow. In fact we turned downwind towards Fishguard for an hour at one stage because the wind was so strong and the forecast so bad. However the wind backed a little to the southwest and moderated a smidge and I decided that we had better get on to Arklow before a promised northwesterly set in later that night. And so we went for it – and it was a character-building trip. The wind was all of F7 for much of the day, but at least it was on the beam. Faustina loved it of course, fine sea boat that she is. It was a bit more wearing for the elderly crew! However we got to Arklow safely at 2300 and two tired people moored alongside the pontoon in the river.
We had a day’s rest in Arklow and then the rest of the trip was just a long run back up the coast to Portaferry, which we did in a day on Sat 21 August. It had been a ‘bitty’ sort of cruise but despite the failure to complete a ‘Grand Plan’ and despite the weather, we enjoyed ourselves. That’s quite enough to ask of any cruise!
Faustina II left her home port of Portaferry in on 11 June with just Ann and myself aboard and turned north en route to Scotland. After a very mixed day of good wind, no wind and dead ahead wind we moored in Glenarm that evening – at which point I realised that I hadn’t topped up the fuel. We made very complex arrangements to get a tanker to the marina but, by the time it arrived, there was no vehicle access as the HM had gone home and it had to leave us un-fuelled. I decided that we should play safe before heading up the Scottish west coast and that we should return to Bangor next day. We did that, refuelled and popped home for an hour or so. That evening we set off north again and reached Red Bay well after dark. We tried anchoring off the jetty just north of Waterfoot but youths on the shore shouted at us very crudely and we withdrew to the south to anchor without company.
Next day we put our nose into Gigha at about lunchtime. The weather was cold and grey and the bay didn’t look inviting so we pushed on to spend the night at Ardfern marina (where of course I could have got fuel!). We ate well at the ‘Galley of Lorne’ and watched England losing 2-1 to France on the box.
Next morning (Mon 14 June) we bought some essentials (and a few non-essentials) at the brilliant marina chandlery. I wish all chandleries were as good as this one. Then on north through the Dorus Mor towards Cuan Sound. The vis became so poor that I stopped for a while to really plan the transit of the Cuan Sound in detail. In the end it was no problem though it was cold, drizzly and grey. We turned into the Sound of Mull against a 20kt headwind – and I decided that enough was enough. We went into Loch Aline and anchored on the starboard side inside the entrance, turned on the heater and stayed warm and secure for the night.
We passed Tobermory at midday next day and with the wind still OTN we headed for and rounded Ardnamurchan Point. During the afternoon the wind improved until we were bowling along, past Mallaig and up the Sound of Sleat. We were overtaken by a small flotilla of German minesweepers (should we have been listening to the news?) and we passed through Kyle Rhea just before the tide turned against us. That evening we took a mooring that we found in Totaig Bay opposite the impressive island castle of Eilean Donan.
It was so vile outside next morning that we just went back to bed! Later I worked up the energy to clean and grease 6 winches (not my favourite job!). We did boat jobs all day and then, in the evening, fortified by a G&T, we went in Poppy, our RIB, to look at the castle. Heavy rain from really low clouds drove us back to the boat and an early night.
Ann made bread as we made across to Kyleakin next morning. We wanted water but unbelievably water via a hose was not possible at Kyleakin. We crossed to the north side at the jetty at the Lochalsh Hotel where we topped up from a Council provided tap and pipe and did a spot of food shopping. Then we were away under the Skye bridge, on to the north against a N3 wind, and along the Inner Sound towards our planned destination at Loch Torridon. That night we anchored in Upper Loch Torridon at Alligin Shuas (I don’t what all these names mean either!) despite the quite unwanted directions from a manic RORC member who clearly felt that we weren’t doing it right. We managed.
We had come all this way simply to visit Ann’s niece who is the owner of the Tigh an Eilean Hotel at Shieldaig in Loch Torridon. Cathryn had bought the hotel a few years ago and I can only say that it’s a great hotel, pub and shop. They won the Sunday Times ‘Best Small Hotel in Scotland’ award in 2004 - so others agree with me. We took the boat 2 miles or so to anchor off the hotel for a while. However the weather didn’t make it a safe overnight anchorage and so we returned to the well-sheltered Alligin Shuas anchorage - but not before we had had a wonderful walk and a superb meal at the hotel with and as a guest of the owner.
We tested the hotel anchorage again next morning but I still wasn’t happy about it. We returned to Upper Loch Torridon, anchored and then took the RIB to the headland from where we could walk the 2 miles along paths to the hotel. Then in Cathryn’s car we went exploring to the north, the main aim being a visit to the Inverewe gardens. They were ‘ok’ but it rained and no garden is at its best (especially to a non-gardener like me) in the rain. It bucketed down as we returned to Shieldaig where we had supper in the pub and then walked back to the RIB and so back to Faustina II.
We went south to Plockton next day. It was cold and nasty but the wind was behind us for a change. For the first-timer the entrance to Plockton is a little tricky, but the village and anchorage is well worth a visit. We were advised in the village that there are about 6 visitors moorings tucked away at the head of the bay (a fact not noted in the CCC pilot book) and so we able to lie securely whilst we explored and ate ashore in the Plockton Hotel. I noted that evening that the wind had gone down and that the sun was trying to come out – some improvement!
I visited the small Plockton PO next morning where they offered Internet facilities, – one computer. I wanted to update the ICC web site. The service was so slow that more time was spent talking to the delightful postmistress and to customers than actually doing things to the web site. It was so slow in fact that the nice lady couldn’t bring herself to charge for the service when I finally gave up after an hour or so. We slipped at lunchtime, went south under the Skye Bridge again, through Kyle Rhea with the tide and anchored in the lee of the Sandaig Islands (of ‘Ring of Bright Water’ fame). It is a lovely spot. We took ‘Poppy’ all through the islands, landed for a walk and then collected mussels that Ann prepared for supper in wine and onions. Delicious.
Nly gales were forecast for later but in the morning we set off south again in warm sunshine. Ann even sunbathed. We passed by Mallaig at midday and decided to go into Arisaig. It was reported to be a pretty place but the entrance is another interesting bit of pilotage. It actually wasn’t difficult though in a note later to the CCC pilot book compiler I felt that the perches could be described rather more comprehensively. It was about 1½ hrs before LW as we went in and being able to see the rocks helps. We anchored for the night. The moorings and anchorage are private and a fee is payable.
The NE wind was pretty fresh in the morning and we initially decided to stay put. However after breakfast it moderated somewhat and the rain set in. We decided to at least go round Ardnamurchan. We went alongside the pontoon to get water and were honked at continuously and pathetically by a baby seal that stayed alongside the boat. It appeared to have lost its mother. After the Rhum ferry had departed we went alongside its jetty to take on fuel. We had a walk, shopped for food, slipped mid-morning and were past Ardnamurchan by 1430 with just the Yankee pulling us along at 6 kts through the grey murk and occasional rain. We anchored in Loch Drumbuie at 1700 – and the rain just – well, rained – and hard.
We debated about going south outside Mull next day, but Ann ‘won’ and we stayed inside. There was now a SWly gale forecast! We went down the Sound with only the Yankee doing the pulling, passed Duart Castle and around the corner into Loch Spelve. We motored up to the NE corner and anchored securely there amid the mussel farms. It’s a lovely quiet spot. The following morning was fine and we weighed soon after breakfast and headed south towards the Sound of Cuan. I had thought to go through the Sound of Luing but found that I didn’t have a chart that gave me enough detail given the increasing poor conditions that came on during the morning. So we went back through Cuan, through Dorus Mor and along to Ardfern again. We had found this to be a friendly and well-run marina. We bought some wheels to help us drag Poppy up beaches and Ann started work on some new cushions for the boat. That evening we gave a drinks party on board for some Americans and by the end of the evening had virtually contracted to go down the Grand Canyon in rafts for 3 weeks in 2006 – an adventure that is still on! The promised vile wind and weather duly arrived next day and we stayed put. Ann made more cushions and I went to the village hall to use their Internet and we both went to a community curry dinner at the hall in aid of funds for its rebuild. Friendly folk.
Next morning (Sun 27 June) we were away early and were clear of Loch Craignish by 0930 and heading south again. The wind was SW 3 and so we had to motor. During the afternoon the wind veered to allow some sailing aided by the engine. I stopped the engine at 1600 and we sailed the last 20 miles or so to the west side of Rathlin Is, making a good 7 kts. The tide was creating rough seas off the island but they soon flattened out and we reached Ballycastle marina at 1900. We left Faustina II there for two days whilst we home.
We were back on board with our new crew, Sheilah B on 29th June. The plan had been to go around the west coast of Ireland to join the 75th Anniversary Rally. The forecasts were dire but we held off a decision for another day whilst the three of us paid an interesting visit to Rathlin – by ferry! We had a great walk over to the north coast and along to the lighthouse on the east point. Next day the weather was fine but the wind was strong from the south and the forecast was still bad. Reluctantly we gave up on the west coast idea and set off down the east coast of Ireland with no great anticipation of pleasure from that generally dull coastline. We stopped to refuel at Bangor and fixed an electrical problem and then, over the next few days went on to Ardglass, Howth, Arklow and wonderful Kilmore Quay where the HM never fails to be helpful.
On 6 July I actually managed to use the Cruising Chute, which took us gently across Hook Bay and part of the way up the river towards Waterford. We lost the wind and started the engine at Duncannon, which was just as well as there were about eight salmon nets across the river to be avoided. We stayed at Waterford for 2 days enjoying the tourist attractions. No HM appeared during our visit and we learnt from friendly boaters how to get a gate ‘key’ and from where to buy the card need to obtain power. We greatly enjoyed Waterford and the run up the river to the city is lovely too. Sheilah left us to return home.
Ann and I were away at 0500 on Friday in order to use the tide out to the sea. We were abeam Dunmore East by 0700 and turned west under sail, passing Capel I and Ballycotton. We entered Oyster Haven and fastened to a private mooring buoy. The weather by now had relented and it was a beautiful quiet evening.
We rounded Old Man of Kinsale next morning – it was again grey, overcast and cold. We bumped across Courtmacsherry and Clonakilty Bays, bypassed our original destination of Castletownshend and turned through the Gascanane Sound and into Schull where we anchored. My birthday was next day (Sun 11 July) and we stayed anchored at Schull and had a long walk and later a rather poor meal ashore. We stayed another day and took on water and fuel and, got some laundry done. (On our boat, laundry completed = happiness!) On Tuesday we were joined by Patrick and Mary K (ICC) with whom, on Wednesday, we sailed around to Castletownshend and a good meal at ‘Mary Ann’s’.
The following 10 days were taken up enjoying the Cruise in Company. We went to Kinsale and were joined by Ronnie and Hazel B(ICC). We visited Glandore/Union Hall from whence Ann and I made a trip – with a lift both ways - to Skibbereen to buy an essential item from the excellent chandlery there. The on to Castletownshend (again!), Fastnet and Schull, two nights at Adrigole and finally Glengarriff. Amazingly the large number of boats attending the rally never really appeared to be a problem (except perhaps at Kinsale Marina) but there were probably rather too many people at the functions to make it quite as much fun as a smaller Rally. The organisation was splendid and we were certainly glad that we had been there.
From Glengarriff Patrick and Mary went home, but the others stayed with us as we made our way back to Kinsale. In keeping with the generally contrary weather that we had had for most of the trip to date, the wind was blowing freshly from the west as we struggled towards Sheep’s Head. We motored for a while and then when we had got to a position where sailing was feasible without tacking we had a good sail towards the Head. However Ann wanted peace for her lunch preparations and so we heaved-to for a while a few miles to the NE of the headland. Having been fed we went on around Three Castles Head and Mizen Head and anchored in Crookhaven at 1600. We invited the crew of Carragheen, Michael M(ICC) and Peter B (ICC) to join us for supper on board and we had a very jolly evening.
We had a dead run next day as we passed to the north of Cape Clear Is and then out through Gascanane Sound en route to Glandore. There I had to replace a blocked loo pipe (with a lot of expletives) but I was rewarded with a good meal at the Marina Hotel. The next morning we went to Crosshaven and moored for the night at the RCYC. Next day we motored up to Cork to see the sights! It’s an interesting trip up the river and it was easy to moor near the first road bridge in the city centre whilst we visited the very comprehensively stocked chandlery there. We returned to the RCYC and had a ‘sailing supper’ in the club. Next day we left the boat in the care of the RCYC and the rain lashed down and totally soaked us all as we boarded the Barr’s car to be driven back to our home in the North.
Ann and I were back on board 6 days later on 4 August, having travelled south by train free of charge. We refuelled Faustina at the Scalpe Marina. Our plan was to go now to the Isles of Scilly en route to Brittany. However the wind, true to practice, would be directly on the nose and so we went around to Oyster Haven to await a change of wind direction forecast for later in the day. We anchored. The wind changed direction several times and the rain came in hard. It was not a hard decision to stay put until things cheered up a bit. It’s supposed to be fun!
We got away again early next morning with the wind out of the west. The seas were rolly and a main preventer became necessary. We left the Kinsale Oil Field a mile to port. The sun came out and it even became quite warm. The wind died in the early afternoon and we motored on with dolphins paying a couple of welcome visits. And so things continued until we reached the New Grimsby Sound in the north of the Scillies at 0330. There are no lights there and the vis had become poor, so we circled for a while until it became light enough to see our way into the anchorage between Tresco and Bryher. Actually it was an anchorage when I was last there many years ago – moorings have now been laid and one would have to admit that these are probably safer (though more expensive) to use than an anchor in this place near to Cromwell’s Castle. We dozed until lunchtime and then went ashore to visit the Tresco Tropical Gardens. They are beautifully laid out. The entrance fee is £8.50 pp and the main flowers then on show were agapanthus – sprouting like weeds.
That was Sat 7 August. We rather sadly gave up on the idea of going on to Brittany as the wind was firmly SE and forecast to stay there for a few days. We stayed in the Scillies for a week and that turned out to be just fine. They are really beautiful and there is a lot to explore both by boat and on foot.
On Sunday we walked on Tresco and got both hot and wet and had a seriously expensive lunch at the very smart Island Hotel. On Monday we took Faustina II south across the Tresco Flats. The Flats (or shallows) look rather daunting on the chart but at half tide and above they were not a problem for our 1.5m draft. We had set off to go to Hugh Town on St Mary’s but we decided instead to go to anchor at St Agnes. There we walked ashore to the old lighthouse and had a splendid pasty (me) and crab sandwich (Ann) for lunch. Good local food. It was a lovely sunny day and a nice place but I thought that the depth of the anchorage would get a little thin at LW. We opted to return to New Grimsby and went there by going west outside all dangers. There was quite big swell and the seas pounding onto the outlying rocks with clouds of spray were a good reminder of their dangers and of all the ships that have foundered in the area over the years.
Overnight there was thunder and vivid lightning. We decided again to visit Hugh Town and so once more crossed the Tresco Flats and took a mooring off the town jetty used by the mainland ferry. Hugh Town is the capital of the Scillies and there are many good strong moorings laid for visitors. It was however rolly and not very comfortable. Rain was all about. A fellow yachtsman came over kindly to admire Faustina II and he suggested that we might like the anchorage at St Helen’s Pool to the east of Tresco. We piloted our way there through heavy rain showers but despite the fact that the Pool is lovely, there wasn’t much shelter and I decided that New Grimsby would again be preferable. We left to the north and went close by Round Is and its lighthouse. There were no mooring buoys free and so this time we had to anchor. We walked for while on Bryher before crossing to Tresco for a pub meal in the excellent New Inn.
We stayed another two days in New Grimsby relaxing and walking. There was one drama. That was when we tried to weigh our anchor to move onto a mooring buoy when worse weather was forecast. The anchor came up firmly embedded in the loop on the end of a very old and rusty wire hawser. Some intrepid ‘yachting’ (as Ann calls it) got us loose after about 30 minutes of hard work.
On Sat 14 August we left the Scillies and sailed eat towards Lands End and, passing about 6 miles north of Cape Cornwall, we reached Padstow in mid-afternoon. The harbour gate was open and we entered to find it remarkably empty compared with our visit last year. We moored alongside the wall close under the gaze of the many tourists who ate their fish and chips or ice creams over-looking the cockpit. Eleanda with Nigel and Heleen Lindsay-Fynn was across the other side of the harbour (they had of course been on the ICC Rally) and we visited them for a drink. Later we invited a Welsh couple from a neighbouring boat to drinks on Faustina II. We had to kick them out at nearly midnight!
Next day we went for a six-mile hike out to the Daymark and back, and in the evening, after a short return match with our Welsh neighbours, we had an excellent meal at the Ebb restaurant. We were away at 0530 next morning for the crossing of the Bristol Channel to Milford Haven. We managed to sail nearly all the way but the sea was aggravatingly bumpy and uncomfortable. We arrived at 1730. I have heard many people say that they don’t like Milford Haven, but I do, and I certainly appreciate Dale when its nasty outside. It was there that we anchored (as we usually do) for a quiet night.
The next day was very special as my daughter, her husband and their three young daughters, who were holidaying in Wales, came to join us for the day. Several memorable events occurred. The first was that we were boarded by police who required us to complete the same ‘pink card’ that they had required of us last year. An ‘anti- terrorism’ measure. The boat was swabbed down to see if any drugs were aboard and we had to prove our identity. All very pleasantly done (as it was last year) but why does it only happen to us in Milford Haven? My granddaughters were greatly diverted by all this! After we were ‘released’ from the interest of the police we moved up into the harbour and anchored for lunch near the RNLI boathouse. Almost immediately a ‘maroon’ went off and shortly afterwards the lifeboat came down the ramp and entered the water with a most satisfactory splash. Later we saw the Trinity House vessel ‘Patricia’ lifting a buoy to do some maintenance. We went on as far as the big road bridge and then returned to Dale. The weather had remained fine all day – we were very lucky – but no sooner had I landed my daughter and the gang than it began to rain very hard indeed. We stayed at anchor overnight. The wind freshened and we decided that we would stay another day until it relented somewhat.
Finally on Thu 19 August we set off for Arklow - although I didn’t make a final decision about our destination for some hours. The swell was quite big but the tide carried us quickly past Skomer Is. and up to the South Bishop LH. I had kept in contact with the CG updating them with my options – Fishguard, return to Milford Haven or on to Arklow. In fact we turned downwind towards Fishguard for an hour at one stage because the wind was so strong and the forecast so bad. However the wind backed a little to the southwest and moderated a smidge and I decided that we had better get on to Arklow before a promised northwesterly set in later that night. And so we went for it – and it was a character-building trip. The wind was all of F7 for much of the day, but at least it was on the beam. Faustina loved it of course, fine sea boat that she is. It was a bit more wearing for the elderly crew! However we got to Arklow safely at 2300 and two tired people moored alongside the pontoon in the river.
We had a day’s rest in Arklow and then the rest of the trip was just a long run back up the coast to Portaferry, which we did in a day on Sat 21 August. It had been a ‘bitty’ sort of cruise but despite the failure to complete a ‘Grand Plan’ and despite the weather, we enjoyed ourselves. That’s quite enough to ask of any cruise!