Faustina II went to the Outer Hebrides
We went cruising in F2, our trusty Bowman 40, for seven weeks this year - and that is a lot to describe in detail. It was a great cruise from our point of view - gentle and blessed with mostly great weather but very little wind. Memsahib sailing! We met lots of friends en route – and had the occasional incident.
We started with a nasty one. We had left Bangor on Wed 3 July and gone to Rathlin. After a night there we sailed for Port Ellen and as we rounded the west end of the island we hit the considerable overfalls that occur there. ‘No problem’ we thought as we went quickly through them with the tide under us. It was only when the seas had calmed a bit that we realised two hatches had been slightly open and that we had serious water in our bedding and the main cabin. Morale was low for a while! Very low. Matters were not eased when we found that we couldn’t with any degree of safety (because of the strong southerly wind that was blowing) moor alongside in Port Ellen and we had to retire to the NW corner of the bay for the night. Next morning we were able to go to the marina where we found excellent laundry facilities at the hotel near the marina and were able to use an electric heater to dry the boat for a couple of days. Order was restored and morale rose.
North Region was holding a rally at Port Ellen which attracted 18 boats and 50 members and friends. We held a BBQ by the pontoons and then were superbly looked after at the Ardbeg distillery which fed us a really fine buffet supper and plenty of samples of their product.
Next day, heading north through the Ardmore islands we fell in with Ed W (ICC) on Witchcraft and Peter R (ICC) on Seascape with whom we shared a magnificent and huge lasagne.
We went cruising in F2, our trusty Bowman 40, for seven weeks this year - and that is a lot to describe in detail. It was a great cruise from our point of view - gentle and blessed with mostly great weather but very little wind. Memsahib sailing! We met lots of friends en route – and had the occasional incident.
We started with a nasty one. We had left Bangor on Wed 3 July and gone to Rathlin. After a night there we sailed for Port Ellen and as we rounded the west end of the island we hit the considerable overfalls that occur there. ‘No problem’ we thought as we went quickly through them with the tide under us. It was only when the seas had calmed a bit that we realised two hatches had been slightly open and that we had serious water in our bedding and the main cabin. Morale was low for a while! Very low. Matters were not eased when we found that we couldn’t with any degree of safety (because of the strong southerly wind that was blowing) moor alongside in Port Ellen and we had to retire to the NW corner of the bay for the night. Next morning we were able to go to the marina where we found excellent laundry facilities at the hotel near the marina and were able to use an electric heater to dry the boat for a couple of days. Order was restored and morale rose.
North Region was holding a rally at Port Ellen which attracted 18 boats and 50 members and friends. We held a BBQ by the pontoons and then were superbly looked after at the Ardbeg distillery which fed us a really fine buffet supper and plenty of samples of their product.
Next day, heading north through the Ardmore islands we fell in with Ed W (ICC) on Witchcraft and Peter R (ICC) on Seascape with whom we shared a magnificent and huge lasagne.
The southern part of the vfoyage
We headed north to anchor briefly at Craighouse, and then overnight stops at Tayvallich and behind Goat island in Loch Craignish. We took on fuel and supplies at Ardfern but didn’t stop but continued north through the downhill thrill of Cuan Sound. Initially we headed for Iona along the Mull south coast but half way there realised that we could not possibly circumnavigate Mull in time to get to Dunstaffnage in time to meet the crew due in a few days. We therefore turned back and went in to Loch Spelve where in 2010 the RHYC had held a magnificent mussel party as part of the CCC centenary cruise. From there we went very slowly, in very light winds and a favourable tide, into the Sound of Mull to Loch Aline (which we later learnt to pronounce ‘Alin’ - rather like ‘Allen’). We woke next morning to find ourselves in dense fog which stayed until lunchtime. There was no wind as we motored up the Sound of Mull (for the first of six times on this cruise!) and anchored at the NE corner of Loch Drumbuie. Next day we took a berth in Tobermory and shopped in the Coop. I mention that because the Coops we visited throughout the islands were universally excellent- well stocked and well run.
On Sun 14 Jul we went back down the Sound in a freshening westerly breeze and took a VM off Oban. Actually the wind was now so fresh that we didn’t do it very well. Later we realised that we were on a mooring reserved for 30ft boats and made a much better job of moving to a higher spec mooring in the outer row. Then on to Dunstaffnage marina where we collected Ann’s daughter Jane and her daughter Alice. It was great having them on board because they were so appreciative and such fun. They all wanted to visit Loch Creran as many years ago they had all stayed for a week at Barcaldine castle. We spent a night at anchor in South Skian Bay and then motored up the loch –and back – but due to the poor vis we had to convince ourselves that we saw the castle, though we probably hadn't!
On Sun 14 Jul we went back down the Sound in a freshening westerly breeze and took a VM off Oban. Actually the wind was now so fresh that we didn’t do it very well. Later we realised that we were on a mooring reserved for 30ft boats and made a much better job of moving to a higher spec mooring in the outer row. Then on to Dunstaffnage marina where we collected Ann’s daughter Jane and her daughter Alice. It was great having them on board because they were so appreciative and such fun. They all wanted to visit Loch Creran as many years ago they had all stayed for a week at Barcaldine castle. We spent a night at anchor in South Skian Bay and then motored up the loch –and back – but due to the poor vis we had to convince ourselves that we saw the castle, though we probably hadn't!
F2 on a foggy morning in Loch Aline
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The CalMac ferry arrives at Castlebay, Barra
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From there we once again went up the Sound to Tobermory where we had dinner at the Mish and then a lovely evening on board Gentle Spirit with Harold and Vivienne B (ICC). It’s these sort of occasions that makes being a member of the ICC such a pleasure. Next day we sailed up Loch Sunart as far as Salen. Then in very athletic style we BEAT our way back down the loch as far as the lovely anchorage at East Caol Carna from where, in the absence of any other boats, we had a fine old time roaring around in Poppy, our RIB fitted with a 9HP engine. Always a kid at heart! Next day we went back down the Sound and into Loch Aline again, this time to walk ashore to visit the gardens at Ardtornish House. We met Tony and Gina W (ICC) there who told us they had seen an otter in the river. It was still there fishing away when we went to look.
We reluctantly dropped our guests back ashore at Dunstaffnage (having been given a lovely lunch by them at the ‘Wide Mouthed Frog’). We refuelled and did the laundry using a rather idiosyncratic machine at the marina, and later Kenneth and Hilary B (ICC) came aboard for drinks. With them we went again to the WMF – the meal was good but the service was slow. No matter, it was a lovely evening and we sat outside and enjoyed the view across the bay - and the craic.
We reluctantly dropped our guests back ashore at Dunstaffnage (having been given a lovely lunch by them at the ‘Wide Mouthed Frog’). We refuelled and did the laundry using a rather idiosyncratic machine at the marina, and later Kenneth and Hilary B (ICC) came aboard for drinks. With them we went again to the WMF – the meal was good but the service was slow. No matter, it was a lovely evening and we sat outside and enjoyed the view across the bay - and the craic.
The Hebridean part of the voyage
We went back up the Sound again in lovely but windless conditions, stopped briefly at Tobermory for a shop at the Coop, and then headed around Ardnamurchan Point and out to Canna. What a stunning anchorage that is - and now it has a few mooring buoys too. We socialised there with another Bowman 40’s crew and I went for a short walk ashore. Early next morning we went around the north side of the island. The sea was like oil as we made over to Castlebay on Barra. That was crowded with yachts and all 17 moorings were taken. We anchored and later went ashore to walk the ‘Herring Walk’ which has plaques describing the life and work of the girls that filleted the herrings that were landed here for so long. We also had a ’traditional Hebridean tea’ but as they were ‘closing in 45 minutes’ we were required to have paper cups and plates and take them outside. Great tradition!
The plan from here had been to head out to St Kilda, something we have been trying to do for years. However going there via the Sound of Barra is the long way and anyway the wind was Easterly and that’s not good for St K. So we sailed on northwards on a cloudy day, but when we reached Eriksay the sun came out. Eriksay now has two moorings and a fine pontoon with really easy access to water. However the shop is still away over the hill and next day that provided me a fine walk while Ann, who has a knee problem, stayed near the boat to paint. I visited the church with its boat altar and the causeway and saw the white Eriksay ponies up on the hill. A lovely day.
Next day was 23 July and Prince George was at last born! We went north to Loch Boisdale where the wind got up from the east and the rain came in. Next day I went ashore, though there really is nothing to see or do there. There’s not even a decent shop. A new marina is being built on one of the nearby islands though heaven knows who will use it. We left and motored north to anchor in the Wizard’s Hole in Loch Skipport. Really good mud holding. For a while we were blown around by a brisk wind, but it later moderated. We went for a walk ashore at an old fish farm pontoon and came across several fine and quite tame dun ponies. The fish farms have all gone and the shore facilities are quietly rotting away. Back at the boat we found that we had been joined by Reiver with Peter W (ICC) and two friends who came aboard after dinner and gave us a fine evening of chat.
We did some loch gunk-holing next day. The scenery had now altered from the hilly South Uist to the much flatter Benbecula. We went first into Loch a’Laip and anchored for a while in the sunshine at its head near the jetty. Then we paid a visit to Kallin which has tight little harbour with a really fast tidal stream running past it. Not a great place to stop. We retreated and anchored half a mile away in the fairway to take lunch. Finally that day we entered Loch Eyeport and anchored in the bay that is called Bagh a Bhiorain which we shared with two other yachts - and lots of noisy seals. That day’s anchorages are all indicative of what makes cruising in these waters so varied and interesting.
There was dense fog in the night but by 0800 the sun was out and we made away to Loch Maddy and took the last free mooring near the ferry terminal. In the village we met Alistair who runs a taxi service. His home stands out due to the rather special and unusual décor that he gives the house and garden. He proudly showed us his 1938 Standard which we were invited to enter and test the leg room – which I can report was good! Later we caught a bus to go around North Uist but this only went so far. We then had to wait for the small Post Bus in which we went to lots and lots of houses along bumpy tracks with barking dogs to deliver the mail. This was all very interesting though the edge was rather taken off it by the dense fog that prevail for most of the journey. We felt that we had earned dinner in the Loch Maddy Hotel that evening!
We were now suffering a bit of a cooking gas crisis which tended to dominate events for few days. We were down to one Camping Gas container (which was to last three weeks - but we didn’t know that then!) There was none available anywhere in Uist - and the next planned stop was due to be St Kilda via the Sound of Harris. Having what we thought was very little gas was a worry - could we get to St K and back with it? However more pertinently the wind had died and looked as though it was going to stay dead for some time as a big high pressure system had arrived. I decided that as much as we wanted to see St K we were not going to motor all the way there and all the way back. Just too boring.
The plan from here had been to head out to St Kilda, something we have been trying to do for years. However going there via the Sound of Barra is the long way and anyway the wind was Easterly and that’s not good for St K. So we sailed on northwards on a cloudy day, but when we reached Eriksay the sun came out. Eriksay now has two moorings and a fine pontoon with really easy access to water. However the shop is still away over the hill and next day that provided me a fine walk while Ann, who has a knee problem, stayed near the boat to paint. I visited the church with its boat altar and the causeway and saw the white Eriksay ponies up on the hill. A lovely day.
Next day was 23 July and Prince George was at last born! We went north to Loch Boisdale where the wind got up from the east and the rain came in. Next day I went ashore, though there really is nothing to see or do there. There’s not even a decent shop. A new marina is being built on one of the nearby islands though heaven knows who will use it. We left and motored north to anchor in the Wizard’s Hole in Loch Skipport. Really good mud holding. For a while we were blown around by a brisk wind, but it later moderated. We went for a walk ashore at an old fish farm pontoon and came across several fine and quite tame dun ponies. The fish farms have all gone and the shore facilities are quietly rotting away. Back at the boat we found that we had been joined by Reiver with Peter W (ICC) and two friends who came aboard after dinner and gave us a fine evening of chat.
We did some loch gunk-holing next day. The scenery had now altered from the hilly South Uist to the much flatter Benbecula. We went first into Loch a’Laip and anchored for a while in the sunshine at its head near the jetty. Then we paid a visit to Kallin which has tight little harbour with a really fast tidal stream running past it. Not a great place to stop. We retreated and anchored half a mile away in the fairway to take lunch. Finally that day we entered Loch Eyeport and anchored in the bay that is called Bagh a Bhiorain which we shared with two other yachts - and lots of noisy seals. That day’s anchorages are all indicative of what makes cruising in these waters so varied and interesting.
There was dense fog in the night but by 0800 the sun was out and we made away to Loch Maddy and took the last free mooring near the ferry terminal. In the village we met Alistair who runs a taxi service. His home stands out due to the rather special and unusual décor that he gives the house and garden. He proudly showed us his 1938 Standard which we were invited to enter and test the leg room – which I can report was good! Later we caught a bus to go around North Uist but this only went so far. We then had to wait for the small Post Bus in which we went to lots and lots of houses along bumpy tracks with barking dogs to deliver the mail. This was all very interesting though the edge was rather taken off it by the dense fog that prevail for most of the journey. We felt that we had earned dinner in the Loch Maddy Hotel that evening!
We were now suffering a bit of a cooking gas crisis which tended to dominate events for few days. We were down to one Camping Gas container (which was to last three weeks - but we didn’t know that then!) There was none available anywhere in Uist - and the next planned stop was due to be St Kilda via the Sound of Harris. Having what we thought was very little gas was a worry - could we get to St K and back with it? However more pertinently the wind had died and looked as though it was going to stay dead for some time as a big high pressure system had arrived. I decided that as much as we wanted to see St K we were not going to motor all the way there and all the way back. Just too boring.
F2 (left) anchored in Loch Rodel
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East Loch Tarbert
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Decision made, we motored across the Sound to the southern tip of Harris and entered Loch Rodel at about half tide. Those who know this delightful little bay know that you need about half tide to get in and out. Once in there are three mooring - and a hotel that does good plain catering, though surprisingly, no local fish. Their Apfel Strudel was outstanding! I walked a long way up the glen and later Ann joined me to inspect the interesting ancient church of St Clements up on the hill, now deconsecrated and looked after by Scottish Heritage.
I rang the Tourist Information Office at East Loch Tarbert (ELT) and tasked them with finding me some Camping Gas. They rose to the challenge and the local ‘Mr Gas’ duly met us at the tourist Office later in the day to relieve us of an outrageous amount of money for two full tanks. Despite the expense, it was a relief to have them on board, as well as the supplies obtained from the usual excellent Coop.
I rang the Tourist Information Office at East Loch Tarbert (ELT) and tasked them with finding me some Camping Gas. They rose to the challenge and the local ‘Mr Gas’ duly met us at the tourist Office later in the day to relieve us of an outrageous amount of money for two full tanks. Despite the expense, it was a relief to have them on board, as well as the supplies obtained from the usual excellent Coop.
We had anchored close by the ferry jetty and had used our RIB to get ashore. When we left we were almost at Scalpay bridge before I realised that we had no RIB with us. We slunk back to the harbour and found it bobbing against the shore in view of the line of passengers waiting to board the ferry. No one came by in a small boat to help so I had to don my ‘shorty’ wet suit and swim to the shore to row Poppy back. Very silly.
It was only four miles to Loch Claidh where we made our way round to the lovely bay behind Eilean Thinngarstaigh. This was coming down with seals which quite quickly accepted our presence and even came across to inspect us. We had a very amusing evening watching their antics, playing and fighting and jockeying for position on the higher rocks as the tide came in.
It was only four miles to Loch Claidh where we made our way round to the lovely bay behind Eilean Thinngarstaigh. This was coming down with seals which quite quickly accepted our presence and even came across to inspect us. We had a very amusing evening watching their antics, playing and fighting and jockeying for position on the higher rocks as the tide came in.
F2 anchored in Eilean Thinngarstaigh in Loch Claidh
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Sunset at Eilean Thinngarstaigh
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The following morning was another beauty and we had a memorable sail across to the Shiant Islands where we anchored off the east side of the beach that connects the two high parts of the main island. After lunch I went ashore and climbed up to get the view and the picture – but then came down quickly as I realised that the anchor wasn’t holding properly and Ann was drifting slowly but steadily out to sea. I should have anchored much nearer to the beach than I did. Once away we kept going and we returned to Lewis and went into Loch Shell. I tried a couple of the anchorages recommended by the CCC but liked neither of them and so we went on to Loch Erisort. I wanted to go into the little Loch Mariveg there but the entrance is a bit tricky and the sun was in my eyes. I settled for Camus Orasaidh which we shared with two others. They had the best bits! From there next day it was a short sail with the gentle breeze behind us that brought us to Stornoway.
The entrance to Stornoway harbour from the grounds of Lews Castle
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Walking in the beautiful grounds of Lews Castle, Stornoway
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We like Stornoway. It’s a small town, easy to find your way around, it has all the facilities – and just across the stream that creates the harbour lies the extensive and beautiful grounds of Lews Castle. The ‘castle’ is presently being converted to become a luxury hotel. The marina was small and for our 40ft boat rather tight, but they were building an extension and from next year there will be space for more and bigger boats. We stayed there for four quite eventful days.
We hired a car and went to explore Lewis. Although we were advised that it was not worth seeing I felt a need to visit the Butt of Lewis, so we trailed all the way there. ‘They’ were right – it was dull stuff. Much much better was the west coast. We were desperate for some lunch and from a previous visit knew that there was a restaurant at the Black House village. This is a collection of the famous black houses that are very well worth a visit. On this occasion we settled for lunch only and there met a party of American tourists, some of whom live in St Petersburg in Florida and knew Barbara W (ICC) well. Small world – but then Barbara has so many friends! We revisited the amazing 5000 year old Callanish Standing Stones before going onto Uig on the coast. This is wonderful area of hills and sea and land lochs. Near Uig we walked across the machair, which was heavily carpeted in wild flowers, to a long and wide sandy beach with not a person in sight. Sadly we ran out of daylight before we could do the area full justice. We should not have gone to the Butt.
We hired a car and went to explore Lewis. Although we were advised that it was not worth seeing I felt a need to visit the Butt of Lewis, so we trailed all the way there. ‘They’ were right – it was dull stuff. Much much better was the west coast. We were desperate for some lunch and from a previous visit knew that there was a restaurant at the Black House village. This is a collection of the famous black houses that are very well worth a visit. On this occasion we settled for lunch only and there met a party of American tourists, some of whom live in St Petersburg in Florida and knew Barbara W (ICC) well. Small world – but then Barbara has so many friends! We revisited the amazing 5000 year old Callanish Standing Stones before going onto Uig on the coast. This is wonderful area of hills and sea and land lochs. Near Uig we walked across the machair, which was heavily carpeted in wild flowers, to a long and wide sandy beach with not a person in sight. Sadly we ran out of daylight before we could do the area full justice. We should not have gone to the Butt.
Ann at the Callanish Standing Stones, Lewis
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Ann at callanish
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It rained hard all that night and all next day. Nevertheless I took a long walk around the
grounds of Lews Castle. You could walk
there all day and rarely meet the same track junction. It was Stornoway Carnival Day (what a rotten
day for it) and we went to see the floats.
There was more enthusiasm than real skill! That evening we met up with Peter and Elaine
B (ICC) who had been out to St Kilda on an old but very well set up
round-the-world 70ft yacht and we had fun drinks on board and were guests at a
great dinner with the skipper and crew in the County Hotel.
On Sunday 4 Aug the wind was blowing hard and it continued to rain. However at 1000 it cleared a lot and we decided to leave before harbour-itis set in. We slipped after lunch and motored back down to Loch Erisort against a very brisk breeze. This time we had Camus Orasaidh to ourselves and we laid out a lot of chain against the strong wind.
Ann and I play a game called ‘Upwards’ which is a sort of Scrabble except that it’s much better. It’s a great game for wet nights on board and happily the scores between us are pretty even. You don’t often see it on sale but we recommend it highly.
The plan now was to get to Loch Torridon on the mainland but the wind was coming from the SE. We made the best course we could but inevitably we were pushed further north than we wanted. About half way across the Minch I gave in and we headed for the Summer Islands, arriving at lunchtime. We didn’t stop but weaved a pretty comprehensive route through the islands which we shared with lots of seals and quite a few canoeists. As we left the sun came out to show us the islands as they should look. We headed over towards Loch Ewe ten miles away but it looked pretty dull and we pressed on to Loch Shieldaig in Loch Gairloch. The wind got up even stronger from the SW and it was hard going getting around Rudha Reidh under sail. We motor sailed the last seven miles past the many rock arches on that coast to Loch Gairloch and took a VM at the head of the loch. We had been at sea for 12 hours - and Ann beat me at Upwards!
Next morning we meandered through Badachro to see the great pub we had once visited from the land side. It was grey and drizzly as we motored down to Loch Torridon and up to Loch Shieldaig. There is there, as advised, a new pontoon but you are not permitted to stay on it longer than 3 hours. Ann’s god-daughter and her husband own the excellent ‘Tigh an Eilean’ hotel, bar and shop in the village and next year they will re-laying some moorings opposite the hotel. We had a great meal in the upstairs room in the bar. I’m biased of course - but it IS recommended (though the dining room meals are quite expensive.)
On Sunday 4 Aug the wind was blowing hard and it continued to rain. However at 1000 it cleared a lot and we decided to leave before harbour-itis set in. We slipped after lunch and motored back down to Loch Erisort against a very brisk breeze. This time we had Camus Orasaidh to ourselves and we laid out a lot of chain against the strong wind.
Ann and I play a game called ‘Upwards’ which is a sort of Scrabble except that it’s much better. It’s a great game for wet nights on board and happily the scores between us are pretty even. You don’t often see it on sale but we recommend it highly.
The plan now was to get to Loch Torridon on the mainland but the wind was coming from the SE. We made the best course we could but inevitably we were pushed further north than we wanted. About half way across the Minch I gave in and we headed for the Summer Islands, arriving at lunchtime. We didn’t stop but weaved a pretty comprehensive route through the islands which we shared with lots of seals and quite a few canoeists. As we left the sun came out to show us the islands as they should look. We headed over towards Loch Ewe ten miles away but it looked pretty dull and we pressed on to Loch Shieldaig in Loch Gairloch. The wind got up even stronger from the SW and it was hard going getting around Rudha Reidh under sail. We motor sailed the last seven miles past the many rock arches on that coast to Loch Gairloch and took a VM at the head of the loch. We had been at sea for 12 hours - and Ann beat me at Upwards!
Next morning we meandered through Badachro to see the great pub we had once visited from the land side. It was grey and drizzly as we motored down to Loch Torridon and up to Loch Shieldaig. There is there, as advised, a new pontoon but you are not permitted to stay on it longer than 3 hours. Ann’s god-daughter and her husband own the excellent ‘Tigh an Eilean’ hotel, bar and shop in the village and next year they will re-laying some moorings opposite the hotel. We had a great meal in the upstairs room in the bar. I’m biased of course - but it IS recommended (though the dining room meals are quite expensive.)
Shieldaig village in Loch Torridon
We tacked out of the loch against a west wind with a reef in the main. Later the wind veered to the north a bit and we had a cracker of a sail across the Sound of Jura, around the north of Rona and on towards Skye. Then we bore off and sailed freely south and through Cael Rona, the gap between Rona and Raasey. With a dying wind we motored the last five miles to Plockton where we took a VM. It was a glorious evening. Who understands Scottish weather?
Next morning we ‘did’ Plockton – shop, coffee, art galleries and a walk – and then left at near LW to head through the Strome Narrows and up to the head of Loch Carron. We anchored off the village of Lochcarron and went for a walk along the high road behind the village before having haggis at the hotel. I then realised that I may have moored the RIB rather lower down the slip than was sensible given the rising tide and I went to look. Sure enough, the warp was 18 inches under water and I got wet trousers and shirt to recover it. Getting old.
The weather was vile in the morning and the loch was in a ‘fog’ that turned out to be soft rain. Not nice. We followed our inward track to get through the Narrows safely and then headed for the Skye bridge. On the way I saw a couple of yachts moored in what looked like a nice bay – so we turned in. We had a very idle day there but at 9pm some large waves started coming in. I tested the anchor again - only to find that it wasn’t really holding well enough to ensure a carefree night. I decided to return to Plockton and it took about an hour to get there. By the time we found a VM it was pretty dark. I was ashamed of myself - but I still had a large Jameson!
It was now Sat 10 Aug and we returned to the Skye bridge and held the Yankee to Kyle Rhea where the tide was just turning south. We went through quickly despite the increasing head wind. The rain bucketed out of low cloud as we passed the Sandaig Islands. We reached Mallaig at lunchtime and took a mooring in the new marina. In the town I wanted a haircut but the barber was away. Ann wanted the Internet but the Internet café Internet didn’t work. The mooring cost £32 plus £3.60 for power. There are no showers or loos and much of the marina isn’t tenable in a northerly wind. Happily for the marina, today the wind was from the south. We stayed on in Mallaig over Sunday being very lazy.
On Monday we sailed to Ardnamurchan Point, 19 miles away, in a westerly breeze. As we got there we were hit by a mega 10 minute squall that caused waterfalls to come off the sails. It was a dead run towards Tobermory but when we got there we decided to go on down the Sound of Mull (last time!) to Loch Aline. Half way down the Sound we went to look at Salen but there was a green buoy on the chart that I couldn’t find and we stayed prudently away.
Next morning we ‘did’ Plockton – shop, coffee, art galleries and a walk – and then left at near LW to head through the Strome Narrows and up to the head of Loch Carron. We anchored off the village of Lochcarron and went for a walk along the high road behind the village before having haggis at the hotel. I then realised that I may have moored the RIB rather lower down the slip than was sensible given the rising tide and I went to look. Sure enough, the warp was 18 inches under water and I got wet trousers and shirt to recover it. Getting old.
The weather was vile in the morning and the loch was in a ‘fog’ that turned out to be soft rain. Not nice. We followed our inward track to get through the Narrows safely and then headed for the Skye bridge. On the way I saw a couple of yachts moored in what looked like a nice bay – so we turned in. We had a very idle day there but at 9pm some large waves started coming in. I tested the anchor again - only to find that it wasn’t really holding well enough to ensure a carefree night. I decided to return to Plockton and it took about an hour to get there. By the time we found a VM it was pretty dark. I was ashamed of myself - but I still had a large Jameson!
It was now Sat 10 Aug and we returned to the Skye bridge and held the Yankee to Kyle Rhea where the tide was just turning south. We went through quickly despite the increasing head wind. The rain bucketed out of low cloud as we passed the Sandaig Islands. We reached Mallaig at lunchtime and took a mooring in the new marina. In the town I wanted a haircut but the barber was away. Ann wanted the Internet but the Internet café Internet didn’t work. The mooring cost £32 plus £3.60 for power. There are no showers or loos and much of the marina isn’t tenable in a northerly wind. Happily for the marina, today the wind was from the south. We stayed on in Mallaig over Sunday being very lazy.
On Monday we sailed to Ardnamurchan Point, 19 miles away, in a westerly breeze. As we got there we were hit by a mega 10 minute squall that caused waterfalls to come off the sails. It was a dead run towards Tobermory but when we got there we decided to go on down the Sound of Mull (last time!) to Loch Aline. Half way down the Sound we went to look at Salen but there was a green buoy on the chart that I couldn’t find and we stayed prudently away.
The south again - for reference
We anchored at the head of Loch Aline where there is good holding. There were suppose to be a mass of shooting stars visible that night but despite clear skies, we saw none. In the morning we held the tide as we went down the Sound past Duart Castle and on to the anchorage at Puilladobhrain. There appears to be a yacht permanently moored at the end of the loch which somehow detracts from the expected isolation of this great place. We walked, as one does, over the hill to the ‘Bridge over the Atlantic’ and had a really good meal at the Tigh-an-Truish Inn.
Now it was just a case of getting home, but to make it interesting we sailed over to the Garvallachs. With the breeze in the south there was no question of stopping there as the anchorage is quite exposed. We crossed back over towards Jura and Corryvreckan. The tide was flowing hard to the east and so we were very careful to stay well to the south of the entrance as we made for the gap between Eilean Mor and Bulge Rock. The water was rushing around at great speed. Ann didn’t enjoy it and I confess to some anxiety. However we tucked into Bagh Gleann nam Muc. The preferred anchorage was taken by a motor cruiser so we took the western bay where initially we dragged in the stiff breeze until I let out very much more chain. We stayed there for about two hours before the tide in the Narrows had slackened sufficiently to allow us safe passage. We sailed through Dorus Mor and quietly up Loch Craignish to Ardfern where we refuelled and watered, and then went ashore to have a fairly ordinary meal at the Galley.
Now it was just a case of getting home, but to make it interesting we sailed over to the Garvallachs. With the breeze in the south there was no question of stopping there as the anchorage is quite exposed. We crossed back over towards Jura and Corryvreckan. The tide was flowing hard to the east and so we were very careful to stay well to the south of the entrance as we made for the gap between Eilean Mor and Bulge Rock. The water was rushing around at great speed. Ann didn’t enjoy it and I confess to some anxiety. However we tucked into Bagh Gleann nam Muc. The preferred anchorage was taken by a motor cruiser so we took the western bay where initially we dragged in the stiff breeze until I let out very much more chain. We stayed there for about two hours before the tide in the Narrows had slackened sufficiently to allow us safe passage. We sailed through Dorus Mor and quietly up Loch Craignish to Ardfern where we refuelled and watered, and then went ashore to have a fairly ordinary meal at the Galley.
Mallaig harbour from the south
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Ardfern marina
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Next day the weather was awful and the forecast was for strongish SW winds We decided to stay, and happily Christopher and Valentine T (ICC) arrived to join their beautiful S&S yawl Sai See. They later came for drinks and supper on Faustina. Earlier I had taken myself off for a long (and wet) walk on the hills above the marina. The marina staff will tell you how to get there. The weather and forecast didn’t change next day and so we stayed on. The Ts kindly offered us the use of their car and we were really pleased to be given the chance to explore inland for a change. We went to look at Craobh Haven, then part way up the rather boring Loch Awe before going back past Craobh to look at the SNT gardens at Ardouine. By then the weather had improved and the winds never reached the speed forecast. However a very strong wind was forecast for the early morning. We had a fine meal on board Sai See.
The wind duly strengthen overnight and we were glad to be on a nice cosy boat. Ann cleaned cupboards; I re-marked the anchor chain lengths. We went to bed early and next morning we slipped at 0530. We had to beat for the first 13 miles against the SW breeze but then at Rubha na Cille we were able to sail more freely and did so in fine style down to Gigha. I was about to turn into Arminish Bay when I felt that the wind had veered to the west a bit and so we should get a great sail with a tide down along the west coast of Kintyre. The boat was being steered by the Aries and with Ann on watch I managed an hour’s sleep. We ended the day anchored in Red Bay on the Antrim coast where it took a few attempts to get the anchor to hold. Next morning, Mon 19 Aug, we had a grand sail down to Black Head before motoring the last five miles to Bangor and home.
Not at all ‘all bad’!
The wind duly strengthen overnight and we were glad to be on a nice cosy boat. Ann cleaned cupboards; I re-marked the anchor chain lengths. We went to bed early and next morning we slipped at 0530. We had to beat for the first 13 miles against the SW breeze but then at Rubha na Cille we were able to sail more freely and did so in fine style down to Gigha. I was about to turn into Arminish Bay when I felt that the wind had veered to the west a bit and so we should get a great sail with a tide down along the west coast of Kintyre. The boat was being steered by the Aries and with Ann on watch I managed an hour’s sleep. We ended the day anchored in Red Bay on the Antrim coast where it took a few attempts to get the anchor to hold. Next morning, Mon 19 Aug, we had a grand sail down to Black Head before motoring the last five miles to Bangor and home.
Not at all ‘all bad’!
