There and back - Faustina 2 went to Galicia
It’s about 1400 miles from Strangford to Bayona and back. That’s a long way to go for a rally that has 60 boats planning to attend it. I freely admit to being sceptical about the possible success of so large a rally, but I had made the decision to go months before and by now everyone had their holidays and flights booked – so I was committed. To be honest the thought of the Biscay crossings at my age was worrying me a little as well.
In ample time all our arrangements came together. My crew from Strangford to La Coruña would be Stuart, Ian and Andy, all members of the Newtownards SC where Faustina 2 (a Bowman 40) spends her winter months on a trailer – just 2 miles from home. Stuart was a veteran Faustina crewman having crossed the North Sea on her in violent weather – and here he was, back for more. Ian and Andy had never sailed in other than a dinghy before.
Deadlines are the enemy of the cruising man and anyone sensible tries hard to avoid them However I started with one and, as will be seen, ended with one. The first was a squeeze. I was wanted at the NSC as the committee boat for the GP14 Ulster Championships on 17th and 18th June. So we couldn’t leave until 19th. The other end of the squeeze was the need for two of my crew to be home from Spain by 3rd July. I feared that any delay would make that schedule hard to keep to.
It’s about 1400 miles from Strangford to Bayona and back. That’s a long way to go for a rally that has 60 boats planning to attend it. I freely admit to being sceptical about the possible success of so large a rally, but I had made the decision to go months before and by now everyone had their holidays and flights booked – so I was committed. To be honest the thought of the Biscay crossings at my age was worrying me a little as well.
In ample time all our arrangements came together. My crew from Strangford to La Coruña would be Stuart, Ian and Andy, all members of the Newtownards SC where Faustina 2 (a Bowman 40) spends her winter months on a trailer – just 2 miles from home. Stuart was a veteran Faustina crewman having crossed the North Sea on her in violent weather – and here he was, back for more. Ian and Andy had never sailed in other than a dinghy before.
Deadlines are the enemy of the cruising man and anyone sensible tries hard to avoid them However I started with one and, as will be seen, ended with one. The first was a squeeze. I was wanted at the NSC as the committee boat for the GP14 Ulster Championships on 17th and 18th June. So we couldn’t leave until 19th. The other end of the squeeze was the need for two of my crew to be home from Spain by 3rd July. I feared that any delay would make that schedule hard to keep to.
F2 was essentially ready to go before the racing. I moved her down to Portaferry after the races and on Monday morning the crew came aboard, we loaded the fresh food, made final arrangements, lunched with spouses at the Portaferry Hotel - and set off southwards after that. There was a nice NEly to take us on our way. It wasn’t long before I decided to use the Cruising Chute and we flew that to really good effect all afternoon and evening until dark. The wind died soon after midnight and we had to motor until, in the early hours, the wind freshened again to F5 or 6 from the NNE. For this we took down the Main and rushed on under Yankee only. The sea was rough but Ian truly excelled by making a superb chowder for lunch from the raw materials. Not an easy trick – but the result was magnificent. We rounded Carnsore Point, crossed St Patrick’s bridge and entered Kilmore Quay at 1330 – 150 miles in 22 hours!!
We were met by ‘Mr Kilmore Quay’- Ivan Sutton (ICC) - who helped us get sorted. We refuelled the boat and then the crew was invited to tea with Ivan and Mary, and we visited his small studio where he paints his excellent pictures. Later we had a good dinner at the Silver Fox.
We were met by ‘Mr Kilmore Quay’- Ivan Sutton (ICC) - who helped us get sorted. We refuelled the boat and then the crew was invited to tea with Ivan and Mary, and we visited his small studio where he paints his excellent pictures. Later we had a good dinner at the Silver Fox.
On Wed 21st we topped up the water and slipped at 0930, heading south between the Saltee Islands. There was a gentle ENE breeze. It became really very foggy during the afternoon, with vis less than 50m, but that cleared during the evening as the wind freshened from the SW. Our watch system got under way – three periods of three hours double-manned from 2100 to 0600 with the day loosely divided with one man officially on watch in two hour shifts. It worked very well. Andy had brought a large lasagne that he had made, and that went down well!
By 0700 next morning (22nd) the wind had become W F5 – and we were flying! Rather a grey day but the sailing was great. 140M noon-to-noon. Dinner, this time by Stuart, was his signature dish, an excellent Carbonara. Sadly the good wind died on us at 0300 next morning (23rd) so we had to motor off-and-on until 1400 – no bad thing as the batteries needed a boost anyway. A fine start to the morning gave way to more gloomy stuff but happily the wind came up in the mid-morning and we were sailing again. A very satisfactory 152M noon-to-noon this time.
By 0700 next morning (22nd) the wind had become W F5 – and we were flying! Rather a grey day but the sailing was great. 140M noon-to-noon. Dinner, this time by Stuart, was his signature dish, an excellent Carbonara. Sadly the good wind died on us at 0300 next morning (23rd) so we had to motor off-and-on until 1400 – no bad thing as the batteries needed a boost anyway. A fine start to the morning gave way to more gloomy stuff but happily the wind came up in the mid-morning and we were sailing again. A very satisfactory 152M noon-to-noon this time.
It was a glorious afternoon. A SW F5 wind which became a W F4 was moving us along well in warm sunshine. Really good progress. The sky remained clear in the night and Jupiter shone brightly. We watched the ISS go over and also several satellites. However shipping also began to become a feature as we approached the shipping lane between Ushant and NW Spain. The wind backed and faded a little so that by 0700 (24th) we were closed hauled with all sail set – but still making good progress. By 1000 the wind had kindly freed again. During the morning we were treated to a wonderful show by a large pod of dolphins – much to the especial delight of the dinghy sailors who had not had this experience before. I made lunch and decided to heave-to for the meal in order to enjoy it more. (140M noon-to-noon.) The sailing that afternoon was great – close hauled and fast – but all good things come to an end and by 2300 the wind had gone. Just before dawn Venus rose in the East – a beautiful sight that I mistook at first for a yacht’s masthead light! During the early daylight (25th) it became foggy until we passed the Torre de Hercules LH and, at 0800, moored in the Marina Real in the heart of La Coruña.
That was Kilmore Quay to La Coruña, 534M in 90 minutes under 4 days – and average of 5.65 knots. We were miles ahead of my worst scenario schedule – the lads were certain to get their flights!
That was Kilmore Quay to La Coruña, 534M in 90 minutes under 4 days – and average of 5.65 knots. We were miles ahead of my worst scenario schedule – the lads were certain to get their flights!
We spent the rest of that day and all of the next (26th) exploring La Coruña. Several beers were absorbed and the local cuisine tried and tested. “To the ramparts we hurried” to visit the tomb of Sir John Moore and we walked the mile or so to the Torre de Hercules (without going into it) and back. The return walk included a stop for lunch at a wonderful restaurant discovered by Andy from the internet. It was Restaurant O Bebedeiro, and we warmly recommend it.
My crew still had a few days in hand before their flights were due to depart and it didn’t take me any time at all to persuade them to sail on from la Coruña to Camariñas, a voyage of about 50M. We slipped at 0700 on 27th June and in very light winds, mainly from ahead, we motored along the north coast, inside Illa Malante, had a mid-morning snack of scrambled eggs, and were moored in Puerto Camariñas by 1430. I find that I have made no record of our afternoon’s stay there which probably means that there wasn’t much to say about it!
My crew still had a few days in hand before their flights were due to depart and it didn’t take me any time at all to persuade them to sail on from la Coruña to Camariñas, a voyage of about 50M. We slipped at 0700 on 27th June and in very light winds, mainly from ahead, we motored along the north coast, inside Illa Malante, had a mid-morning snack of scrambled eggs, and were moored in Puerto Camariñas by 1430. I find that I have made no record of our afternoon’s stay there which probably means that there wasn’t much to say about it!
We slipped next morning (28th) at 0845. It was wet and windy with some strong gusts. With a reef in the Main we beat across the bay to Muxia, and after a couple of tacks were able to clear the two headlands to the south. The sea was bumpy but the W F5 wind kept us moving well. We rounded Cape Finisterre and 1215 and made up the bay and anchored off Fisterra for lunch. A hour later we weighed and made the remaining 15 or so miles to Muros by 1700.
At Muros we were greeted with a telling-off from Pedro, the HM, for not calling in on the VHF before arriving. I later heard him doing the same to several other arriving skippers. What a great harbour master he is! He and his son, also Pedro, could not do more make yachts feel welcome. After the telling off he told me that there was a fiesta in town. ‘Good’, I said, thinking of religious festivals and some local colour. ‘NO’, he replied forcibly, ‘it’s just noise’. And of course he was right. However it was also really fascinating. These fiestas are highly organised, probably on a regional or even national level. Apart form the static funfair (more of that below!) each evening a couple of huge semi-trailers arrive and a crew opens them up to create a large stage with elaborate lighting and back sets. The result is a non-stop music al show – singing and dancing – that one of the trailer teams puts on for about 3 hours. The moment that closes another opens up and does another three hours. That takes you until after 2am when quite possibly a third show opens up and keeps going until 5am! These shows are professionally sponsored and produced and the standard is astonishing. However we never saw more that about 30 people watching them.
We were off shore for several fiestas later on. They always start with the firing of many rockets that burst with a very loud bang. Apparently there is some competition in this matter. One town cant be seen to fire off fewer rockets that the others. Probably the best 15 minutes at Muros was the amazing firework display put on one night. Quite stunning for so small a place.
At Muros we were greeted with a telling-off from Pedro, the HM, for not calling in on the VHF before arriving. I later heard him doing the same to several other arriving skippers. What a great harbour master he is! He and his son, also Pedro, could not do more make yachts feel welcome. After the telling off he told me that there was a fiesta in town. ‘Good’, I said, thinking of religious festivals and some local colour. ‘NO’, he replied forcibly, ‘it’s just noise’. And of course he was right. However it was also really fascinating. These fiestas are highly organised, probably on a regional or even national level. Apart form the static funfair (more of that below!) each evening a couple of huge semi-trailers arrive and a crew opens them up to create a large stage with elaborate lighting and back sets. The result is a non-stop music al show – singing and dancing – that one of the trailer teams puts on for about 3 hours. The moment that closes another opens up and does another three hours. That takes you until after 2am when quite possibly a third show opens up and keeps going until 5am! These shows are professionally sponsored and produced and the standard is astonishing. However we never saw more that about 30 people watching them.
We were off shore for several fiestas later on. They always start with the firing of many rockets that burst with a very loud bang. Apparently there is some competition in this matter. One town cant be seen to fire off fewer rockets that the others. Probably the best 15 minutes at Muros was the amazing firework display put on one night. Quite stunning for so small a place.
We liked Muros a lot. It’s a lovely old town that has retained much of its charm – at least near the marina and docks area. We met Dan and Jill Cross (ICC) on Yoshi and we all went out for a fish supper. Inevitably later we explored the funfair and equally inevitably we zeroed in on the dodgems. Big kids! What fun! There was a group singing in the square which we watched before retiring to our bunks to sleep through the big noise.
Next day the only one of us to show any initiative was Andy who went off by bus to explore Santiago de Compostela. We were a good deal more restrained on this evening but we enjoyed a good meal out and watched some more singers in the square.
My trusty crew left by taxi next morning (1st July) at 0630 en route to the airport at Santiago. I spent a few hours cleaning the boat and doing some maintenance before I took a bus into Santiago to meet Ann and two of her grown-up grandchildren, Emily and Isabel – my next crew. Ann hadn’t expected me to meet her in Santiago so was somewhat surprised when I appeared. We took a taxi back to Muros.
Next day the only one of us to show any initiative was Andy who went off by bus to explore Santiago de Compostela. We were a good deal more restrained on this evening but we enjoyed a good meal out and watched some more singers in the square.
My trusty crew left by taxi next morning (1st July) at 0630 en route to the airport at Santiago. I spent a few hours cleaning the boat and doing some maintenance before I took a bus into Santiago to meet Ann and two of her grown-up grandchildren, Emily and Isabel – my next crew. Ann hadn’t expected me to meet her in Santiago so was somewhat surprised when I appeared. We took a taxi back to Muros.
Emily and Izzy only had a few days on board and it was therefore difficult to decide what to do. For their first evening we were joined by the Dan and Jill Cross and we ALL went to play on the dodgems. Who could resist them!
Nest morning I decided to go back north and into the bay to the east of Cape Finisterre. The wind was, of course, from the north but not strong. We motored gently up there and anchored off Enseada de Sardiñero right at the north end of the bay where we had a nice lunch and a lazy afternoon. At 1730 we weighed and set off to Fisterra about two miles away, but then I found that I could find no evidence in the almanac of a marina there (even though Dan Cross had told me that there is one). In any case I decided that because the northerly wind had now become very fresh mooring there with an untried crew might be dodgy – and so we returned to the anchorage where we were well sheltered from the wind.
Next morning (3rd July) Izzy learnt that she had been awarded a 1st class degree in Engineering. Great was the rejoicing and telephoning! She is now an M.Eng.
Nest morning I decided to go back north and into the bay to the east of Cape Finisterre. The wind was, of course, from the north but not strong. We motored gently up there and anchored off Enseada de Sardiñero right at the north end of the bay where we had a nice lunch and a lazy afternoon. At 1730 we weighed and set off to Fisterra about two miles away, but then I found that I could find no evidence in the almanac of a marina there (even though Dan Cross had told me that there is one). In any case I decided that because the northerly wind had now become very fresh mooring there with an untried crew might be dodgy – and so we returned to the anchorage where we were well sheltered from the wind.
Next morning (3rd July) Izzy learnt that she had been awarded a 1st class degree in Engineering. Great was the rejoicing and telephoning! She is now an M.Eng.
The wind had died in the early morning and it was a grand day. We motored south with the Main up in case some wind came. It didn’t - but the day was sunny and warm – so who cared? It is about 30 miles from our overnight anchorage to the Canal de Sagres at the entrance to Ria de Arousa and we were there at about 1600. And so to the infamous canal – which of course proved to be a doddle as the sea was so calm. Unlike Peter Haden (ICC) who famously claims to navigate spiritually, we did use a chart and the excellent notes from Team Kean/Hennigan.
It is perhaps worth mentioning here that, for the most part, our navigation, all the way from Ireland to Spain and back, was done using the quite excellent Navico charts on my iPad using position data blue-toothed to it from a small GPS made by ‘Dual’. Of course we had paper charts standing by as well and we also had a laptop C-Map system for Ireland and north Biscay. But here in Spain we used the iPad exclusively.
It is perhaps worth mentioning here that, for the most part, our navigation, all the way from Ireland to Spain and back, was done using the quite excellent Navico charts on my iPad using position data blue-toothed to it from a small GPS made by ‘Dual’. Of course we had paper charts standing by as well and we also had a laptop C-Map system for Ireland and north Biscay. But here in Spain we used the iPad exclusively.
We moored in Ribiera, which was pretty full. The HM was very helpful and squeezed us into a corner. It is not an attractive marina and we couldn’t really recommend it. It does however have a nearby Hiper market. We left at 1100 next day (4th Jul), went back through the Canal de Sagres and motored north, with an hour of sailing only, into the Ria Muros. We passed Muros and two miles to the NE, at 1630, we anchored in the eastern bay of the Ensenada de Bornalle where we had a really quiet evening. It was warm and sunny and Ann and the two girls went for a brief swim. The water was very cold. That evening fog rolled in and hid the world from us.
We went over to Portosin next day (5th) where sadly the girls left us to return home. Ann and I then spent the days until the rally started on 17th July pottering around the Rias. My daughter Lara joined on 10th July and with us enjoyed the anchorages and marinas that abound. At Vilagarcia we had the spray hood mended and bought three new batteries. We ate quite enough pulpo and assorted sea food to do for quite while. We transited the Canal de Sagres five times all told and we went up the Ria de Vigo to the Ensenada de San Simon which was interesting. It’s shallow!
We went over to Portosin next day (5th) where sadly the girls left us to return home. Ann and I then spent the days until the rally started on 17th July pottering around the Rias. My daughter Lara joined on 10th July and with us enjoyed the anchorages and marinas that abound. At Vilagarcia we had the spray hood mended and bought three new batteries. We ate quite enough pulpo and assorted sea food to do for quite while. We transited the Canal de Sagres five times all told and we went up the Ria de Vigo to the Ensenada de San Simon which was interesting. It’s shallow!
Then came the rally for which we were joined by John Banim (ICC). Lara left on 20th July having had a much needed rest in the company of us older folk. At the Castel de Barona I told her that I might lose sight of her. ‘No problem’, she said, ’Just look for my dark hair’. Oh dear!
The rally was a great success and the 60 boats were managed with efficiency by all the marineros concerned. The functions all worked and were interesting. More elsewhere – but well done Peter Haden and his team.
The day after the last event – Fri 28th Jul, Ann left to fly home and the crew for the return voyage to Ireland assembled. These were to be Peter Fernie, our Vice Commodore, John Banim who had been aboard for the rally, and Andrew Knatchbull, son of the late Patrick Knatchbull (ICC) and nephew of Michael Knatchbull (ICC), who had come aboard two days earlier in time for the last events of the rally. We took Faustina up the Ria to Vigo to collect Peter who had to return his charter boat there.
The rally was a great success and the 60 boats were managed with efficiency by all the marineros concerned. The functions all worked and were interesting. More elsewhere – but well done Peter Haden and his team.
The day after the last event – Fri 28th Jul, Ann left to fly home and the crew for the return voyage to Ireland assembled. These were to be Peter Fernie, our Vice Commodore, John Banim who had been aboard for the rally, and Andrew Knatchbull, son of the late Patrick Knatchbull (ICC) and nephew of Michael Knatchbull (ICC), who had come aboard two days earlier in time for the last events of the rally. We took Faustina up the Ria to Vigo to collect Peter who had to return his charter boat there.
We left Vigo at 1330 and headed straight out to sea and northwards. During a miserably wet and dull afternoon we motored with very little wind, and crawled past Cape Finisterre at about 2100. At 2200 we gybed accidentally and broke the preventer! We had to motor on all night as progress without the engine was very slow, the wind being generally southerly but light. Always drizzle and in the morning (29th) some fog too. However by midday the wind had got up, we were goose-winged and making 7 kts. That’s better! A gust removed a much favoured old Tilley hat of mine which even now is probably floating gently around Biscay. The wind became SWly 15-20 kts, and Faustina loves that. We made excellent progress. The wind stayed in the SW until we reached Ireland (longer actually) at variable speeds, sometimes requiring a bit of engine to move us along. We were a very happy crew enjoying the nice easy sail and eating well. Peter several times called it ‘Champagne Sailing’, and that seemed to sum it up well. We had originally planned to head directly to Arklow but later it seemed more sensible to make land fall at Kilmore Quay. We got there at 1600 on Tuesday 1st August, having sailed about 600 miles in 4 days and 2½ hours –an average speed of just over 6kts.
Ivor and Mary Sutton joined us on Faustina for a wee drink and a chat. The crew had supper on board. Next morning, John, who had not been too well for part of the voyage, left us to go home. The rest of us left Kilmore at 1045 and we will gloss over the horribly erratic course that we followed out to St Patrick’s Bridge – the visibility had closed in so that the leading marks had disappeared. However we got there safely, turned towards Carnsore Point, raising the main en route, and flew up the coast to Arklow where we moored alongside a rickety pontoon in the river at 1900.
Ivor and Mary Sutton joined us on Faustina for a wee drink and a chat. The crew had supper on board. Next morning, John, who had not been too well for part of the voyage, left us to go home. The rest of us left Kilmore at 1045 and we will gloss over the horribly erratic course that we followed out to St Patrick’s Bridge – the visibility had closed in so that the leading marks had disappeared. However we got there safely, turned towards Carnsore Point, raising the main en route, and flew up the coast to Arklow where we moored alongside a rickety pontoon in the river at 1900.
We were away at 0400 (ugh!) next morning and we our standard SW wind made great progress northwards. We were abeam Wicklow Head at 0600 and Bray Head just before 0800. Off the Mournes we raised the Cruising Chute for 1½ hours. We were hit by a squall as we doused it and so, annoyingly, it was packed away wet. We were swept up the Strangford Narrows with the tide to Portaferry where we moored alongside in the marina at 2030.
Two fast voyages up and down the Irish East Coast, two fast voyages across Biscay and back, great crews, no boat dramas, some lovely ‘family’ cruising and a great club rally. Not a bad summer!
Two fast voyages up and down the Irish East Coast, two fast voyages across Biscay and back, great crews, no boat dramas, some lovely ‘family’ cruising and a great club rally. Not a bad summer!
