Faustina II went to Denmark
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The plan for the year was straight-forward – have a delivery crew help me get Faustina II, our much loved Bowman 40, from Bangor to Denmark, be joined there by Ann and take part in a club rally for 2 weeks, be joined by my daughter Lara and her partner Neal and his young daughter for 10 days, and then, in Copenhagen, send them all home and take on the delivery crew for the return voyage. And that all happened, like clockwork. Well almost…
Outward bound - Bangor to Kerteminde, Denmark
I was joined at Bangor on 22 June by Michael Knatchbull (ICC) and his friend Mike Paltridge and we made our way via night stops at Rathlin Island and Puilladobhrain to the Caledonian Canal which we reached at 12.00 on 24 June. We locked in straightaway and made good progress though the canal to Lagan lock just before Fort Augustus. There we found a pub on a barge (The Eagle) where we took dinner. We had already rediscovered the restorative powers of a Jameson each evening to assist digestion and sleep - and we slept well. Next day we were a bit delayed by other traffic and we made it onto Loch Ness where were joined by Aldert Hoekstra (RNIYC) from Donaghadee who was to come all the way to Denmark . We all had a great meal at the Boathouse Restaurant which looks out over Loch Ness. We unreservedly recommend it.
I was joined at Bangor on 22 June by Michael Knatchbull (ICC) and his friend Mike Paltridge and we made our way via night stops at Rathlin Island and Puilladobhrain to the Caledonian Canal which we reached at 12.00 on 24 June. We locked in straightaway and made good progress though the canal to Lagan lock just before Fort Augustus. There we found a pub on a barge (The Eagle) where we took dinner. We had already rediscovered the restorative powers of a Jameson each evening to assist digestion and sleep - and we slept well. Next day we were a bit delayed by other traffic and we made it onto Loch Ness where were joined by Aldert Hoekstra (RNIYC) from Donaghadee who was to come all the way to Denmark . We all had a great meal at the Boathouse Restaurant which looks out over Loch Ness. We unreservedly recommend it.
Next day (Thu 26th) we moored in the canal marina at Inverness and did some shopping nearby - Aldert and I for ship’s supplies and the others for gifts to take home. We took supper in the Clachnaharry Arms, about a mile from the marina near the sea. Next day at 12.00 we left the canal and made round to Inverness marina where we were to collect my new crew member for the North Sea crossing – Andrew Knatchbull, second son of the late Patrick Knatchbull ICC. He duly arrived on time and we said farewell to the two Michaels who had to return to Dublin. They had been great company. Poor Andrew had a hardly stepped on to the boat and had his safety briefing before we set sail at 15.00. It was a poor start for us all: the sea was bumpy, the wind contrary and it was cold. Aldert became sick.
I should explain at this point that I had no passport. About three weeks earlier I had been checking all the ship's documentation and came across the copy of my passport that I keep with them. The passport had expired in Jan 14. Ummm. I sent it off for renewal just as it was announced that the UKPO was groaning under the biggest back log of applications that it had ever had. My new passport hadn't arrived before I left the country but I figured that as one is NEVER asked to show a passport, I should depart anyway. Just before leaving Inverness the UKPO texted me to say that it was being printed and would be despatched shortly. I arranged for Ann to send it on to me in Denmark. Perhaps I should also mention that Ann’s passport had also expired. She was to fly to Copenhagen and she WOULD need a passport for that. Happily, after some tense days, both new passports arrived and all was well. I didn't get asked for mine until much later – on the way home in Germany.
I should explain at this point that I had no passport. About three weeks earlier I had been checking all the ship's documentation and came across the copy of my passport that I keep with them. The passport had expired in Jan 14. Ummm. I sent it off for renewal just as it was announced that the UKPO was groaning under the biggest back log of applications that it had ever had. My new passport hadn't arrived before I left the country but I figured that as one is NEVER asked to show a passport, I should depart anyway. Just before leaving Inverness the UKPO texted me to say that it was being printed and would be despatched shortly. I arranged for Ann to send it on to me in Denmark. Perhaps I should also mention that Ann’s passport had also expired. She was to fly to Copenhagen and she WOULD need a passport for that. Happily, after some tense days, both new passports arrived and all was well. I didn't get asked for mine until much later – on the way home in Germany.
The crossing from Inverness to the north tip of Denmark (The Skaw) is about 470 miles. We left Inverness on Friday afternoon and we reached Skagen (pronounced Skane) early on Tuesday morning. We had all been ill on our first full day until we got our sea legs and the sea settled down a bit – and we were able to sail using a useful northerly breeze. At times we had over 20 knots of wind which is what Faustina likes and we made good progress, albeit in poor weather and a rather lumpy sea, until early Monday morning when the wind dropped off. I decided to set the Cruising Chute and we got the guy and sheet ready and took the bag to the bow. I reached for the halyard, but it wasn't there. I hadn't rigged it, but I did have a mouse in place. I attached the halyard to that - but the mouse came off the masthead block and jammed. Dear reader, I climbed the mast to free it. At 77 years and 11 months I should have known better – but I got there and fixed it, and we romped along in fine style for several hours until the wind died at about midday. From then on we motored, rounded the Skaw very early next morning and entered a very crowded Skagen harbour at 0600 on Tuesday 1 July.
The main events here were a visit to the Skagen Museum where they have a permanent exhibition of what I think are simply wonderful pictures by the Skagen School of painters. They are so refreshing and immediate, due, it is said, to the wonderful light of the open area. A slightly reluctant Andrew came with me (this was my second visit) but he loved the pictures too. The other main event was the receipt of my new passport which had arrived by DHL to a friend of a friend who lives part time Skagen. He came to supper with us and proved to be great company.
Next day (Wed 2 Jul) we had to wait until eight boats rafted outside us had moved to enable us to leave. We made our way down the east coast of Denmark heading south for Bønnerup 70nm away with a light north wind that needed the use of the engine to bolster the Main and the Cruising Chute. During the morning the wind died and then at midday it strengthened first from the southwest and then from the south-southwest. We were able to sail freely and we bowled along at over 7 knots. We reach Bønnerup at 19.45. I was really worried about being able to manoeuvre in the very small harbour in the strong wind but happily, just inside, there was an empty space with a sign saying for use by boats longer than 12m. Happiness - and relief!
On Thursday we slipped at 05.30. The wind was less strong but southwest and we motored on southwards with two reefs in the main. It was unrelenting hard work for the boat and for Andrew and me (Aldert felt ill all day and stayed below) and it only improved when we tacked in really close to the shore. Then at last we were in the shelter of the island of Samsø and at 17.30 entered Ballen, tired out. Andrew made a fine veggie pasta supper.
The wind was light next day as we made our way south to the bridge over the Great Belt. The bridge connects the islands of Sjælland (on which Copenhagen stands) and Fyn around which we would spend most of the next few weeks. The small vessels’ passage under the bridge has an air clearance of 18m. Faustina II has a mast height of about 15.5m. It looks awfully close as you approach but we made it then - and again later. (Ann always goes below when we go under bridges – she is always convinced the mast is about to come down! )
On Thursday we slipped at 05.30. The wind was less strong but southwest and we motored on southwards with two reefs in the main. It was unrelenting hard work for the boat and for Andrew and me (Aldert felt ill all day and stayed below) and it only improved when we tacked in really close to the shore. Then at last we were in the shelter of the island of Samsø and at 17.30 entered Ballen, tired out. Andrew made a fine veggie pasta supper.
The wind was light next day as we made our way south to the bridge over the Great Belt. The bridge connects the islands of Sjælland (on which Copenhagen stands) and Fyn around which we would spend most of the next few weeks. The small vessels’ passage under the bridge has an air clearance of 18m. Faustina II has a mast height of about 15.5m. It looks awfully close as you approach but we made it then - and again later. (Ann always goes below when we go under bridges – she is always convinced the mast is about to come down! )
We turned west and went into Nyborg where there is a guest harbour that always has plenty of space, good facilities and is near the railway station and the town centre. Perfect. The delivery trip was completed. A meal in a nearby restaurant and a couple of well deserved Jamesons celebrated that.
It was great having a day off the next day – no sailing to a deadline required. The deadline had been to reach Kerteminde by Sunday 6th July in time for a rally organised by the NAS (North American Station of the Scandinavian YCs) of which I am a member. My log of the rally we did with them in Norway in 2008 is on this website.
Aldert, a stalwart crewman, left to fly home from Copenhagen - and Ann arrived. There was a Medieval Festival going on in the town - lots of people dressed up in suitable attire – the nautical equivalents of old gaffers I thought! We wandered around that – all very jolly and low key. There was some wonderfully well made 'medieval' merchandise on sale.
It was great having a day off the next day – no sailing to a deadline required. The deadline had been to reach Kerteminde by Sunday 6th July in time for a rally organised by the NAS (North American Station of the Scandinavian YCs) of which I am a member. My log of the rally we did with them in Norway in 2008 is on this website.
Aldert, a stalwart crewman, left to fly home from Copenhagen - and Ann arrived. There was a Medieval Festival going on in the town - lots of people dressed up in suitable attire – the nautical equivalents of old gaffers I thought! We wandered around that – all very jolly and low key. There was some wonderfully well made 'medieval' merchandise on sale.
Next day, Sunday 6th July, Andrew left at 09.30 to fly home and back to work. He had been a super crew - hard working and cheerful. Shortly after he had gone, Ann and I slipped F2 and, again going under the bridge, we made our way about 10 miles north to Kerteminde where we moored in the harbour. This has a river flowing through it connected to a large lake inland. This is significant because, although the tidal range in the Baltic is negligible, that lake fills and empties (like Strangford Lough) and there is sufficient tidal range to cause the current to flow in and out of the harbour there at great speed, occasionally catching the unwary while mooring alongside.
The NAS rally
Our NAS friends were gathering in Kerteminde, a few in their own hulls, a few in hired yachts and some aboard the mother ship, the Loyal, (see below) a beautifully renovated 22m LOA Norwegian ketch built in 1877 which kept us company throughout the next two weeks.
The NAS rally
Our NAS friends were gathering in Kerteminde, a few in their own hulls, a few in hired yachts and some aboard the mother ship, the Loyal, (see below) a beautifully renovated 22m LOA Norwegian ketch built in 1877 which kept us company throughout the next two weeks.
I don’t propose to describe the rally in full detail. The first 'event' was a visit to the Ladby Viking ship that had been unearthed a few miles away. That was followed by a superb opening dinner at a local up-market fish restaurant. After that great start, next day we went north from Kerteminde to Ballen on Samsø where we were hammered by strong winds and had to stay a day longer than planned. It gave us the chance to visit the Energy Academy where we learned how Samsø has become the world’s only (almost) total energy self-sustained island using windmills and by using straw to fuel furnaces. We then went south-about the island to Mårup, also on Samsø, and from there to Juelsminde on the mainland. We then went south through the Little Belt to the tiny island of Årø. A night at each of these places.
Faaborg was the next stop, where we chose to anchor off rather than face the hassle of getting into the infamous ‘boxes’ used in Scandinavian harbours. These require that you go between two poles (judging that they are wide enough), dropping a stern line over each as you pass and then securing the bow to the jetty whilst taking up on the stern lines. This is fine when you have a well briefed crew of three or four but Ann and I were alone and discretion (at least at this time) was deemed better than valour!
Our next stop was at Ærøskøbing a harbour on the island of Ærø , which I first sailed to all of 56 years ago with the British Kiel YC. Some readers know that in the late 80s I had had had the fortune to command the military unit that runs the BKYC - so this visit was a real blast from the past. The Ærøskøbing harbour itself was little changed but there is now a large and popular marina nearby. We had a guided tour of the town which I remembered so well with its streets of tiny wood framed houses with hollyhocks and roses growing out of the cobbles outside most of them. The heritage is rightly strongly protected both officially and by the residents.
Faaborg was the next stop, where we chose to anchor off rather than face the hassle of getting into the infamous ‘boxes’ used in Scandinavian harbours. These require that you go between two poles (judging that they are wide enough), dropping a stern line over each as you pass and then securing the bow to the jetty whilst taking up on the stern lines. This is fine when you have a well briefed crew of three or four but Ann and I were alone and discretion (at least at this time) was deemed better than valour!
Our next stop was at Ærøskøbing a harbour on the island of Ærø , which I first sailed to all of 56 years ago with the British Kiel YC. Some readers know that in the late 80s I had had had the fortune to command the military unit that runs the BKYC - so this visit was a real blast from the past. The Ærøskøbing harbour itself was little changed but there is now a large and popular marina nearby. We had a guided tour of the town which I remembered so well with its streets of tiny wood framed houses with hollyhocks and roses growing out of the cobbles outside most of them. The heritage is rightly strongly protected both officially and by the residents.
Our next stop was at the tiny island of Skarø. Here an enterprising farmer has developed ice creams to die for. Wonderful. His bigger aim is to produce protein rich food for people who are seriously ill and who, like some cancer patients, have little sense of taste. His food is essentially tasty and nutritious – and he is doing well with his project. We had a great barbecue at his establishment – needless to say, tasty and nutritious! Next day we went along several miles of very narrow and shallow channels past Svendborg to a boatyard (Walsteds). We visited Slot Valdemar (an old castle) and were fed royally at the boatyard by the owners. (This may have been because many of those on the rally over-winter their boats there!) We then had a free night which we used to anchor at the isolated island of Musholm but several of our fellow rally members went there too and the usual parties developed. Happily I had brought plenty of drink from home as the cost of drink in Denmark is eye-watering. Food less so.
The weather had been very good for most of the rally though we had some grey days. Today was a scorcher with no wind so we motored the 13 miles to Kerteminde. We had an afternoon of laundry and cleaning and then the farewell dinner at which silly songs were sung and even sillier speeches and prizes were given out. All great fun. A party on board F2 afterwards made great holes in the ship’s spirits’ supplies.
Sailing with the family
Next day, Saturday 19 July, we stayed in Kerteminde, went to an art gallery of paintings by a local artist (rubbish we both thought!) and had a great evening with friends on board their boat They had been on the NAS rally with us. Then on Sunday, after a good lazy start to the day, we slipped at 11.00 and motored north and around the northeast tip of Fyn into the well protected but shallow bay of Korshavn. There we did nothing for the rest of the day except read and sleep.
On Monday we went south again, under the bridge (a much higher part of it with 65 m air clearance this time) into Korsør which is on Sjaelland. Korsør is the home of the Danish navy. The town has suffered badly since the bridge was built because it was from here that the rail and road ferries used to run to Fyn. That has all gone for good. Nevertheless it was not unattractive and I found a good chandlery where I was able to buy Camping Gaz. In really hot sunshine we stayed here for two days and I used my folding bike to good effect exploring the town. In fact I left the bike assembled for the next two weeks and it straddled the pushpit conveniently ready for use. We had Ann’s bike on board too but it didn't get an airing.
Sailing with the family
Next day, Saturday 19 July, we stayed in Kerteminde, went to an art gallery of paintings by a local artist (rubbish we both thought!) and had a great evening with friends on board their boat They had been on the NAS rally with us. Then on Sunday, after a good lazy start to the day, we slipped at 11.00 and motored north and around the northeast tip of Fyn into the well protected but shallow bay of Korshavn. There we did nothing for the rest of the day except read and sleep.
On Monday we went south again, under the bridge (a much higher part of it with 65 m air clearance this time) into Korsør which is on Sjaelland. Korsør is the home of the Danish navy. The town has suffered badly since the bridge was built because it was from here that the rail and road ferries used to run to Fyn. That has all gone for good. Nevertheless it was not unattractive and I found a good chandlery where I was able to buy Camping Gaz. In really hot sunshine we stayed here for two days and I used my folding bike to good effect exploring the town. In fact I left the bike assembled for the next two weeks and it straddled the pushpit conveniently ready for use. We had Ann’s bike on board too but it didn't get an airing.
On Wednesday we crossed the Great Belt again keeping south of the bridge and re-entered the guest harbour at Nyborg. That evening (an incredibly hot muggy one) my daughter Lara, her partner Neal and his young daughter Megan arrived by train from Copenhagen to join us for 10 days.
My experiences of sailing in Denmark have led me to believe that the waters around Fyn are as pleasant as anywhere and so I decided that we would take our new crew to many of the places that we had already visited on the rally (and which I knew of old).
So next day we headed south and round to the Svendborg channel. We anchored off Slot Valdemar and I sent the crew ashore in the RIB with the advice to look at the castle and grounds but not to bother to go into it. Once they were back on board we went to an anchorage further towards Svendborg and anchored for the night. We had a quiet evening enlivened by Megan catching a large jelly fish and the consumption of several rum and Tings. (Ting is carbonated grapefruit which, those of you that have sailed in the Caribbean should know, goes perfectly with rum.)
Next day we sailed past Svendborg, under its high bridge and returned to the island of Skarø to get some more ice cream! This time we went alongside and hopped ashore for a quick dash to the farmer and his wonderful product. It was still good! The wind had got up over the last hour and getting out of the tiny harbour against the wind was not the easiest manoeuvre I have done especially as the ferry arrived just as we were leaving. We sailed on to the west and soon found ourselves amid a large fleet of big sailing ships, many of them Baltic Traders. They made a wonderful sight as they beat to windward going east.
So next day we headed south and round to the Svendborg channel. We anchored off Slot Valdemar and I sent the crew ashore in the RIB with the advice to look at the castle and grounds but not to bother to go into it. Once they were back on board we went to an anchorage further towards Svendborg and anchored for the night. We had a quiet evening enlivened by Megan catching a large jelly fish and the consumption of several rum and Tings. (Ting is carbonated grapefruit which, those of you that have sailed in the Caribbean should know, goes perfectly with rum.)
Next day we sailed past Svendborg, under its high bridge and returned to the island of Skarø to get some more ice cream! This time we went alongside and hopped ashore for a quick dash to the farmer and his wonderful product. It was still good! The wind had got up over the last hour and getting out of the tiny harbour against the wind was not the easiest manoeuvre I have done especially as the ferry arrived just as we were leaving. We sailed on to the west and soon found ourselves amid a large fleet of big sailing ships, many of them Baltic Traders. They made a wonderful sight as they beat to windward going east.
We anchored in the lee of a headland for lunch for an hour and then went on to Faaborg. By the time we reached there, with Megan steering for much of the way, the wind was really fresh and I was relieved that we managed , after a comprehensive briefing of the crew, to enter a mooring box in the marina without mishap. Actually we did it rather well! That evening we had dinner in the Pakhus in Faaborg to celebrate Lara’s achievement of getting a 2/1 from the Open University, the result of several years of really dedicated hard work.
Our next stop was Ærøskøbing where we arrived at midday after a morning of motoring in rain. We managed to moor in the main harbour but poor Neal dropped a very heavy mooring ring onto a finger which caused him much pain for several days. The three visitors were despatched in the free bus to Marstal at the southern end of the island to see the excellent maritime museum there. It tells the story of the island’s seafaring tradition and of the hundreds of its sailing boats that used to fish off Newfoundland and elsewhere. When they returned I gave them the tour of Ærøskøbing based on what I remembered from the tour I was in two weeks earlier.
I had a nasty pain in my stomach next day that was to trouble me for about a week before disappearing. We set off in mist with the sun increasingly strengthening but little wind. The way north from Ærøskøbing is along a very narrow and shallow channel, well marked but occasionally shared with the ferry that has to go along it very slowly. That channel turns east into another before one arrives off Rudkøbing. After passing under the bridge we left the fairway and had a quiet lunch at anchor under the now very hot sun. We then went on north to Lohals on Langeland in the hope of finding a space in the harbour or the marina. We poked our nose into both but whilst a 30-footer may have made it a 40-footer had no chance. The other boaters tried to look friendly but it was clear that staying wasn't an option. After one abortive attempt to anchor we moved about half a mile south and anchored about 100m offshore with plenty of chain deployed. We had a quiet night! Megan had a great time in the RIB quickly gaining confidence and increasing speed!
Next day, Monday 28 July, there was a light northwest breeze. We motored north to round the extensive shallows off the north of Langeland before turning east. This was perfect weather for the cruising chute and so we deployed that. Initially I had intended to go to the small island of Vjerø but going on that course meant that the cruising chute wouldn't fill. So we turned east again and headed towards Vordingborg on Sjælland . As we approached it, again under cruising chute but now without the main, we had a discussion about the air clearance of the bridge to the north of the small island off the harbour, as there was no figure shown on the chart. It was only just in time that we realised that it was a lifting bridge and we didn’t know its open times. So we went south around the island, under the high main bridge and headed north over shallows that the chart showed should give us just enough depth. The chart was wrong and we very nearly grounded. We bore away, gave up the idea of Vordingborg and headed on east under yet another bridge to the little port of Stubbekøbing on the island of Falster. There was plenty of room and the facilities met al the demands that the ladies required. Later we walked around the town but it wasn't by any standards a tourist destination – but there was a gorgeous sunset!
On Tuesday the wind was from the north, not at all what we needed. We had a late start and made our way through the channel out to the southern end of The Sound, the channel that separates Denmark and Sweden.
Our next stop was Ærøskøbing where we arrived at midday after a morning of motoring in rain. We managed to moor in the main harbour but poor Neal dropped a very heavy mooring ring onto a finger which caused him much pain for several days. The three visitors were despatched in the free bus to Marstal at the southern end of the island to see the excellent maritime museum there. It tells the story of the island’s seafaring tradition and of the hundreds of its sailing boats that used to fish off Newfoundland and elsewhere. When they returned I gave them the tour of Ærøskøbing based on what I remembered from the tour I was in two weeks earlier.
I had a nasty pain in my stomach next day that was to trouble me for about a week before disappearing. We set off in mist with the sun increasingly strengthening but little wind. The way north from Ærøskøbing is along a very narrow and shallow channel, well marked but occasionally shared with the ferry that has to go along it very slowly. That channel turns east into another before one arrives off Rudkøbing. After passing under the bridge we left the fairway and had a quiet lunch at anchor under the now very hot sun. We then went on north to Lohals on Langeland in the hope of finding a space in the harbour or the marina. We poked our nose into both but whilst a 30-footer may have made it a 40-footer had no chance. The other boaters tried to look friendly but it was clear that staying wasn't an option. After one abortive attempt to anchor we moved about half a mile south and anchored about 100m offshore with plenty of chain deployed. We had a quiet night! Megan had a great time in the RIB quickly gaining confidence and increasing speed!
Next day, Monday 28 July, there was a light northwest breeze. We motored north to round the extensive shallows off the north of Langeland before turning east. This was perfect weather for the cruising chute and so we deployed that. Initially I had intended to go to the small island of Vjerø but going on that course meant that the cruising chute wouldn't fill. So we turned east again and headed towards Vordingborg on Sjælland . As we approached it, again under cruising chute but now without the main, we had a discussion about the air clearance of the bridge to the north of the small island off the harbour, as there was no figure shown on the chart. It was only just in time that we realised that it was a lifting bridge and we didn’t know its open times. So we went south around the island, under the high main bridge and headed north over shallows that the chart showed should give us just enough depth. The chart was wrong and we very nearly grounded. We bore away, gave up the idea of Vordingborg and headed on east under yet another bridge to the little port of Stubbekøbing on the island of Falster. There was plenty of room and the facilities met al the demands that the ladies required. Later we walked around the town but it wasn't by any standards a tourist destination – but there was a gorgeous sunset!
On Tuesday the wind was from the north, not at all what we needed. We had a late start and made our way through the channel out to the southern end of The Sound, the channel that separates Denmark and Sweden.
We motored north past the white cliffs at the east end of Møn, but the going became harder and we decided to visit Sweden! We turned off the wind a little to get the use of the mainsail and went nearly 30 miles to the south end of the Falster Canal. This short canal provides a short cut around the southwest corner of Sweden as the shallows of the headland there extend about 3 miles off shore. We got there at 18.40, luckily just in time to go through the lifting bridge at 19.00 – the last opening of the day. By now the wind was a really fresh northeast and I was concerned about how well we would manage entering one of the infamous boxes.
There is a marina there – we looked into one basin but it was full and then we went as far north as we could and found a slot facing the wind into which we slotted with not too much hassle. It was however nearly a half mile walk back to the office and the pub. We decided to find out how to visit Skanör, the town 3½ miles away at the end of the peninsular. We found that we could take a bus and pay for it with a credit card. Everyone takes credit cards in Sweden and we used them to get a meal near the marina. Next morning we duly went to Skanör – but we shouldn't have bothered. Apart from the (very full) marina there really wasn't anything special to see, We had a coffee and cakes and were back on board and casting off by 12.00. The first five miles going north is shallow and buoyed. We then went around the east side of Saltholm and into the little gem that is Flakfort.
Flakfort is a small artificial island about 4 miles from Copenhagen. It was built just before WWI to take guns to defend the city. It was constructed with concrete caissons and has gone through several transformations in its 100-year life. Since 2000 it has been open to the public and is a popular weekend destination for Copenhageners, including yachtsmen for whom the harbour that surrounds the island is a perfect (though it must be said expensive) destination. This was my third visit to the island but my young crew had great fun exploring the underground tunnels where at times over 500 soldiers used to be stationed.
Some two months before this I had contacted the Wilders Plads marina in Copenhagen to book a place for four nights. Apparently we were lucky to get one. Knowing that I had a somewhere to stop in the centre of Copenhagen made arriving there the following morning very relaxing. We went close to the little Mermaid and the Nyhavn the more famous temporary stopping place, and then dived into the canal to the Wilders Plads marina . We had been told where our slot was and sure enough there was the name Faustina II on the wall in the allotted place.
The marina is only a few hundred metres from the city centre. It is less expensive that Flakfort and its facilities are good. The only drawback really is the constant stream of big tourist boats that pass by every few minutes with commentaries. The same description on each boat! However one become inured to that and we had a fine time exploring the city, including of course the Tivoli Gardens.
After two days Ann and my daughter left to fly home and the crew for the return to N. Ireland arrived. This was John Ahern, a recently joined member of the ICC and Stuart Wilson from Newtownards who has sailed with me before. They too had two days to explore the city.
Some two months before this I had contacted the Wilders Plads marina in Copenhagen to book a place for four nights. Apparently we were lucky to get one. Knowing that I had a somewhere to stop in the centre of Copenhagen made arriving there the following morning very relaxing. We went close to the little Mermaid and the Nyhavn the more famous temporary stopping place, and then dived into the canal to the Wilders Plads marina . We had been told where our slot was and sure enough there was the name Faustina II on the wall in the allotted place.
The marina is only a few hundred metres from the city centre. It is less expensive that Flakfort and its facilities are good. The only drawback really is the constant stream of big tourist boats that pass by every few minutes with commentaries. The same description on each boat! However one become inured to that and we had a fine time exploring the city, including of course the Tivoli Gardens.
After two days Ann and my daughter left to fly home and the crew for the return to N. Ireland arrived. This was John Ahern, a recently joined member of the ICC and Stuart Wilson from Newtownards who has sailed with me before. They too had two days to explore the city.
The return to Northern Ireland
We left Copenhagen at 07.00 on Monday 4 August in rain and no wind. We made our way south along the main big ship channel. Happily as we reached the cliffs of Møns the sun came out and we had a nice breeze from the north which allowed us to cruise along under the Yankee alone. The crew became a little anxious as I took F2 across some of the shallows and to be honest I had a wee gulp myself at times! The wind died as we turned west up the channel towards Stubbekøbing where we docked at 18.30.
We left Copenhagen at 07.00 on Monday 4 August in rain and no wind. We made our way south along the main big ship channel. Happily as we reached the cliffs of Møns the sun came out and we had a nice breeze from the north which allowed us to cruise along under the Yankee alone. The crew became a little anxious as I took F2 across some of the shallows and to be honest I had a wee gulp myself at times! The wind died as we turned west up the channel towards Stubbekøbing where we docked at 18.30.
We were at sea for 13½ hours next day as we motored, with occasional help from a gentle wind, back up to the north end of Langeland and down to the entrance to the channel to Svendborg (at Valdemars Slot). I had arranged to meet some American friends on their yacht and we finally touched base at Walsteds boat yard where we had had a splendid meal a week or two earlier. I refuelled there and then we set off again to pass Svendborg, which has a most attractive appearance from the sea, and on through the narrow channels that lead down to Marstal on Ærø. Rain had threatened all day and the wind had blown strongly in gusts as big black clouds rolled by. We reached the harbour and marina at 20.00 – and found it absolutely solidly full. There was simply no space in the marina - so we went back into the harbour. We finally found a wall in a shipyard where we moored, expecting to be moved on at any minute. Instead the harbour master arrived and charged us for the night – he was happy for us to stay there and we were much nearer the town than we would have been in the marina. We had fish and chips near the harbour and after the very long day slept well.
We rose early next morning, caught the first free bus to Ærøskøbing and I gave my crew the tour and my now fading recollections of the town’s history. We were back in Marstal by 10.00 and John went to inspect the maritime museum whilst Stuart and I did some shopping. Back on board we slipped at 11.15 and followed the narrow channel out into the Baltic Sea with 30 miles to go to Kiel.
We rose early next morning, caught the first free bus to Ærøskøbing and I gave my crew the tour and my now fading recollections of the town’s history. We were back in Marstal by 10.00 and John went to inspect the maritime museum whilst Stuart and I did some shopping. Back on board we slipped at 11.15 and followed the narrow channel out into the Baltic Sea with 30 miles to go to Kiel.
Of course we went to the British Kiel YC where we were met by my former PA, still working there, with a bottle of wine. We all had a very happy supper at the club while we reminisced about 'the old days'. The establishment is due to close in early 2017 because there are now so few troops based in Germany. Over the years since it was formed in 1945 up to 3000 soldiers every year have been given the opportunity to go sailing to Denmark. It has been a wonderful facility. They now have 15 Hallberg Rassy 34s (bought and owned by the club) and these will be transferred to UK when Kiel closes. I hope to go back for the closing ceremony in due course. It will be a sad day.
We entered the Kiel Canal at 09.00 next day and after being held up for a hour or so by some slow yachts we overtook them and made good speed through the 100 km long canal to arrive at Brunsbüttel at the southern end at 16.30. The day had started drizzly and grey but improved during the afternoon as we went along what is basically a rather boring waterway - enlivened really only when one meets large ocean-going vessels that use up a lot of the available space. Sadly it wasn’t until 18.00 that we were locked out into the River Elbe. The delay meant that we only had an hour of tide with us. Once it had turned we had a real struggle to make headway down the river the 15 miles to Cuxhaven. We entered the marina there at 21.15 but we found that we had moored in a 'box' where the owner was expected back. We had to move. Finally we ate a great carbonara from Stuart and settled down to watch a film. It was a loud film which increased our embarrassment when we realised at about 2300 that the sound had been blasting out through the cockpit speakers. At least one boat had moved away rather than complain. We spent some time next morning apologising to people !
In the morning I went shopping on my bike and took the opportunity to look around the town, including the ‘Alter Lieber’, the former Elbe Lightship, now moored in the harbour. I needed some engine oil and bought a litre – how I wished later that I had bought a lot more! Back at the boat I packed the bike away and we slipped at 11.15 to catch the tide down river and out to the North Sea – and up to Helgoland where we arrived at 14.30. We tried to get fuel but the tide was too low and we half grounded as we approached the pumps. Back in the harbour proper I was surprised to find an alongside berth whilst other boats were moored three or four out. I was to find out why quite soon.
Our voyage thus far had been blessed with mostly excellent weather, albeit there hadn't been much wind. It had always been a problem to get weather forecasts and GRIBs as finding good Internet connections was always a struggle. There seemed to be no Internet that we could use on Helgoland but nevertheless it was clear that the wind was about to get up considerably as the remnants of Hurricane Bertha arrived on the area. After an initial explore of the town and purchasing several bottles of duty free spirits we returned to the boat to find a brisk easterly wind pushing us and the two boats that had now moored outside us away from the jetty. No problem.
By 06.00 next day the wind had gone more southerly and we were being pressed hard against the jetty and some busy fender adjusting occurred. By 08.00 the wind was at gale force and it was raining hard. I decided that we would stay! It wasn't a hard decision. The wind abated a little in the afternoon and by nightfall all was quiet. In the meantime we had completed our laundry and had an excellent evening meal in the town.
We entered the Kiel Canal at 09.00 next day and after being held up for a hour or so by some slow yachts we overtook them and made good speed through the 100 km long canal to arrive at Brunsbüttel at the southern end at 16.30. The day had started drizzly and grey but improved during the afternoon as we went along what is basically a rather boring waterway - enlivened really only when one meets large ocean-going vessels that use up a lot of the available space. Sadly it wasn’t until 18.00 that we were locked out into the River Elbe. The delay meant that we only had an hour of tide with us. Once it had turned we had a real struggle to make headway down the river the 15 miles to Cuxhaven. We entered the marina there at 21.15 but we found that we had moored in a 'box' where the owner was expected back. We had to move. Finally we ate a great carbonara from Stuart and settled down to watch a film. It was a loud film which increased our embarrassment when we realised at about 2300 that the sound had been blasting out through the cockpit speakers. At least one boat had moved away rather than complain. We spent some time next morning apologising to people !
In the morning I went shopping on my bike and took the opportunity to look around the town, including the ‘Alter Lieber’, the former Elbe Lightship, now moored in the harbour. I needed some engine oil and bought a litre – how I wished later that I had bought a lot more! Back at the boat I packed the bike away and we slipped at 11.15 to catch the tide down river and out to the North Sea – and up to Helgoland where we arrived at 14.30. We tried to get fuel but the tide was too low and we half grounded as we approached the pumps. Back in the harbour proper I was surprised to find an alongside berth whilst other boats were moored three or four out. I was to find out why quite soon.
Our voyage thus far had been blessed with mostly excellent weather, albeit there hadn't been much wind. It had always been a problem to get weather forecasts and GRIBs as finding good Internet connections was always a struggle. There seemed to be no Internet that we could use on Helgoland but nevertheless it was clear that the wind was about to get up considerably as the remnants of Hurricane Bertha arrived on the area. After an initial explore of the town and purchasing several bottles of duty free spirits we returned to the boat to find a brisk easterly wind pushing us and the two boats that had now moored outside us away from the jetty. No problem.
By 06.00 next day the wind had gone more southerly and we were being pressed hard against the jetty and some busy fender adjusting occurred. By 08.00 the wind was at gale force and it was raining hard. I decided that we would stay! It wasn't a hard decision. The wind abated a little in the afternoon and by nightfall all was quiet. In the meantime we had completed our laundry and had an excellent evening meal in the town.
Next day, Sunday 10 August, the wind was really fresh again from the south. Stuart and I walked around the island and then got a 6-day forecast from the boat next door where Wolfgang and AnneMarie had good access to the weather forecasts (just as well as we couldn't find Internet access anywhere). There seemed a reasonable chance to make a getaway and I decided to go. Stuart and I went off to try to buy bread and milk. We failed to find any as all the shops were shut (it being a Sunday), but then we were met by John who said that, as he was a diabetic, going without bread wasn’t an option for him. Actually the wind was now so strong that my resolve to depart had faded and even when John managed to blag some bread off a government boat, we stayed. Our fenders were now being really heavily compressed and moving the other boats would have been tricky. My new decision was to stay for at least a further 48 hours. The crew was visibly relieved! Our neighbours came aboard for drinks and after a Jameson bottle had become very much lighter and we had had a great evening, I had to encourage them out at 23.30.
I should add here that John Ahern is a very accomplished guitar player and knows by heart the words of countless songs. He had produced a Song Book for our voyage. However I fear that Stuart and I were not worthy singers and John's best efforts to get much response out of us rather failed. He did hit the spot for me with the 'Ode to Billie Joe' and John wrote out all the words of that so that I could sing along (very badly). He would often play tunes and songs for his own pleasure and we enjoyed listening. He deserved a better audience. One of Stuart's 'strengths' is computers and it was he that managed, despite appalling Internet connections, to download a sound program to enable my laptop to play music and the sound tracks of the films we had.
We had a nice idle day on Monday, walking and socialising with our German neighbours. The only event of note was that two policemen visited and asked for my passport. Not those of my crew – just mine! They were dressed rather casually, so I jokingly asked then to show me their ‘ausweis’ (ID card). They hadn't got them with them but showed me their arm badges. I said one could buy them in a shop! It was all in obvious jest on both sides. However I then couldn’t find my new passport! It took me an embarrassing 5 minutes to trace it. Phew!
Out into the North Sea
Tuesday was a beautiful sunny day – but the wind was still blowing very strongly. However in afternoon I decided that it had reduced sufficiently for us to leave. Wolfgang and AnneMarie advised (even begged) us to stay but we moved off anyway, with difficulty, and went to take on water from near the HM office. Then we tried again to get fuel but this time we failed as it was ‘after hours’. We put three reefs into the main and set off into the North Sea at 18.40. The distance ahead of us to Kinnaird Head was 400 miles and the course was 300°. After an hour or so I tried to make supper but, despite having taken Stugeron, I quickly became very sick and had to give up to allow John to finish the job. The waves were big and there was a lot of lightning and thunder. At 22.30 the wind reduced and we motored on northwards. The rest of the night consisted of light winds interspersed with really powerful gusts (probably force 9 at times), heavy rain showers and clear skies. All very tiring.
Daylight brought clearing skies from the south. I continued to be wretchedly sick all day when I went below, until taking some Kwells in the evening. It may have been these that cured me. I was fine from then on– TG. The wind was southwest force 5 at first but later in the day it veered about 40°and we were no longer able to head for Kinnaird Head, our initial target. However we had made 150 miles in the first 24 hours.
The scene on Thursday morning brought to mind those films of Arctic convoys. It was all white waves and, worse, we were heading about north, way off our desired course. We decided to tack ‘inshore’ though the shore was 200 miles away. It soon became apparent that we were now going ridiculously too far south and I decided to motor into the wind in the right direction. At first we went due west towards Eyemouth the nearest bit of land but later we turned to head for Peterhead which is just south of Kinnaird Head, now 160 miles away. The good news was that the wind had gone down to force 3 though still from the northwest. All this time we had been seeing many oil installations. At one spot I was able to count 19 installations of one sort or another.
At 01.00 on Friday morning I stopped the engine to do a routine oil check – and found none showing on the dipstick. I had the one litre bought in Cuxhaven and a drop more as well. I put all that into the engine and the oil just showed on the dipstick. Clearly we couldn’t go on using the engine. We set the sails again and could make only 260°. Meanwhile we pumped out the oil that we found in the sump tray and bottled it against any essential use of the engine. In daylight John had a look at the engine and it appeared that the oil had come out through a vent that had come off. He tied it down with string, but we kept sailing. By 16.30 the wind had dropped to force 5 and we were making 270° at 5 knots rather than the 300° needed to get to Montrose, my latest target, now 69 miles away. By 18.30 there was a flat calm. No wind and no engine!
At 02.00 next morning the wind had come back and we were sailing but in the wrong direction. During the morning the wind veered and allowed us to make towards Montrose. I called the HM when we were about four miles off at about midday and he said that he had no suitable space for us. He suggested Arbroath, 10 miles to the south (NO!) or Stonehaven, 18 miles to the north. We went there and motored the last few minutes into the harbour without destroying the engine. We moored snugly inside the harbour wall, rising and falling with the tide but with no power or water available. £20 a night. But at least we had reached land!! I went to buy oil and essentials. We topped up the oil and ran the engine. No leaks. We charged up the batteries and then went out for a great fish and chips which we ate on benches overlooking the sea. I have to admit that we also bought a fried battered Mars Bar. That tasted better than one might imagine but it was VERY sweet and two of us couldn’t finish the one we bought.
I should add here that John Ahern is a very accomplished guitar player and knows by heart the words of countless songs. He had produced a Song Book for our voyage. However I fear that Stuart and I were not worthy singers and John's best efforts to get much response out of us rather failed. He did hit the spot for me with the 'Ode to Billie Joe' and John wrote out all the words of that so that I could sing along (very badly). He would often play tunes and songs for his own pleasure and we enjoyed listening. He deserved a better audience. One of Stuart's 'strengths' is computers and it was he that managed, despite appalling Internet connections, to download a sound program to enable my laptop to play music and the sound tracks of the films we had.
We had a nice idle day on Monday, walking and socialising with our German neighbours. The only event of note was that two policemen visited and asked for my passport. Not those of my crew – just mine! They were dressed rather casually, so I jokingly asked then to show me their ‘ausweis’ (ID card). They hadn't got them with them but showed me their arm badges. I said one could buy them in a shop! It was all in obvious jest on both sides. However I then couldn’t find my new passport! It took me an embarrassing 5 minutes to trace it. Phew!
Out into the North Sea
Tuesday was a beautiful sunny day – but the wind was still blowing very strongly. However in afternoon I decided that it had reduced sufficiently for us to leave. Wolfgang and AnneMarie advised (even begged) us to stay but we moved off anyway, with difficulty, and went to take on water from near the HM office. Then we tried again to get fuel but this time we failed as it was ‘after hours’. We put three reefs into the main and set off into the North Sea at 18.40. The distance ahead of us to Kinnaird Head was 400 miles and the course was 300°. After an hour or so I tried to make supper but, despite having taken Stugeron, I quickly became very sick and had to give up to allow John to finish the job. The waves were big and there was a lot of lightning and thunder. At 22.30 the wind reduced and we motored on northwards. The rest of the night consisted of light winds interspersed with really powerful gusts (probably force 9 at times), heavy rain showers and clear skies. All very tiring.
Daylight brought clearing skies from the south. I continued to be wretchedly sick all day when I went below, until taking some Kwells in the evening. It may have been these that cured me. I was fine from then on– TG. The wind was southwest force 5 at first but later in the day it veered about 40°and we were no longer able to head for Kinnaird Head, our initial target. However we had made 150 miles in the first 24 hours.
The scene on Thursday morning brought to mind those films of Arctic convoys. It was all white waves and, worse, we were heading about north, way off our desired course. We decided to tack ‘inshore’ though the shore was 200 miles away. It soon became apparent that we were now going ridiculously too far south and I decided to motor into the wind in the right direction. At first we went due west towards Eyemouth the nearest bit of land but later we turned to head for Peterhead which is just south of Kinnaird Head, now 160 miles away. The good news was that the wind had gone down to force 3 though still from the northwest. All this time we had been seeing many oil installations. At one spot I was able to count 19 installations of one sort or another.
At 01.00 on Friday morning I stopped the engine to do a routine oil check – and found none showing on the dipstick. I had the one litre bought in Cuxhaven and a drop more as well. I put all that into the engine and the oil just showed on the dipstick. Clearly we couldn’t go on using the engine. We set the sails again and could make only 260°. Meanwhile we pumped out the oil that we found in the sump tray and bottled it against any essential use of the engine. In daylight John had a look at the engine and it appeared that the oil had come out through a vent that had come off. He tied it down with string, but we kept sailing. By 16.30 the wind had dropped to force 5 and we were making 270° at 5 knots rather than the 300° needed to get to Montrose, my latest target, now 69 miles away. By 18.30 there was a flat calm. No wind and no engine!
At 02.00 next morning the wind had come back and we were sailing but in the wrong direction. During the morning the wind veered and allowed us to make towards Montrose. I called the HM when we were about four miles off at about midday and he said that he had no suitable space for us. He suggested Arbroath, 10 miles to the south (NO!) or Stonehaven, 18 miles to the north. We went there and motored the last few minutes into the harbour without destroying the engine. We moored snugly inside the harbour wall, rising and falling with the tide but with no power or water available. £20 a night. But at least we had reached land!! I went to buy oil and essentials. We topped up the oil and ran the engine. No leaks. We charged up the batteries and then went out for a great fish and chips which we ate on benches overlooking the sea. I have to admit that we also bought a fried battered Mars Bar. That tasted better than one might imagine but it was VERY sweet and two of us couldn’t finish the one we bought.
Next day, a Sunday again already, Stuart and I walked the few miles to Dunnottar Castle which is impressive but a tourist magnet that we felt didn't attract us enough to pay money to visit. The forecast had been for strong northwest winds but were southwest all day and I wished later that we had gone at least as far as Peterhead. That afternoon the wind veered to west and then northwest and leaving wasn’t an option any more. That evening, the wind began to moderate again and, good news, John fixed the oil vent properly. We had no more oil problems.
I spent Monday morning trying to coax the Internet to come through at Stonehaven library without success. However the shipping forecast suggested that we could get away at least to Peterhead and so we slipped at 13.00. We hammered our way north along the coast, weaved through the maze of nearly 20 vessels anchored or manoeuvring off Aberdeen, dodged inshore to the 10 metre line and then had a good sail up to Peterhead, which we reached at 21.00.
For Stuart in particular time was now pressing and we spent part of Tuesday working out how to get back to NI by bus and ferry. The forecast was for yet more strong northerly winds and further movement by us seemed unlikely. However we decided to hang on for one more day and on Wednesday, as we walked to the town in a strong wind, I felt that there was a break in the offing. We slipped at 16.00 and after refuelling, we motored north and made great progress as far as Fraserburgh with the tide helping us along. Off Fraserburgh and Kinnaird Head the tide turned and the next few hours were dire. The SOG was often down to 1.5 knots and when it rose to 3 knots I thought, ‘Wow, that’s good’!
I woke to come on watch at 02.00 as we motored due west along the Moray Firth coast. and everything had changed for the better. The tide had turned and we were making 6 knots. Then the wind went to the southwest and we could sail. Even better, when we headed southwest for the last 30 miles to Inverness the wind veered to northwest which, at last, was the direction we wanted it to be – and the tide held for us all the way in. We reached the Caledonian Canal at 10.45 on Thursday 21st August and locked in after only a short delay.
I spent Monday morning trying to coax the Internet to come through at Stonehaven library without success. However the shipping forecast suggested that we could get away at least to Peterhead and so we slipped at 13.00. We hammered our way north along the coast, weaved through the maze of nearly 20 vessels anchored or manoeuvring off Aberdeen, dodged inshore to the 10 metre line and then had a good sail up to Peterhead, which we reached at 21.00.
For Stuart in particular time was now pressing and we spent part of Tuesday working out how to get back to NI by bus and ferry. The forecast was for yet more strong northerly winds and further movement by us seemed unlikely. However we decided to hang on for one more day and on Wednesday, as we walked to the town in a strong wind, I felt that there was a break in the offing. We slipped at 16.00 and after refuelling, we motored north and made great progress as far as Fraserburgh with the tide helping us along. Off Fraserburgh and Kinnaird Head the tide turned and the next few hours were dire. The SOG was often down to 1.5 knots and when it rose to 3 knots I thought, ‘Wow, that’s good’!
I woke to come on watch at 02.00 as we motored due west along the Moray Firth coast. and everything had changed for the better. The tide had turned and we were making 6 knots. Then the wind went to the southwest and we could sail. Even better, when we headed southwest for the last 30 miles to Inverness the wind veered to northwest which, at last, was the direction we wanted it to be – and the tide held for us all the way in. We reached the Caledonian Canal at 10.45 on Thursday 21st August and locked in after only a short delay.
We were through the Canal by 10.00 on Saturday and that day had a grand sail in fine weather and a brisk westerly breeze down to Gigha where we arrived at dusk. We stayed only a few hours in the night whilst the tide was against us. We weighed at 02.30 and reached Bangor at 10.30 on Sunday 24thAugust.
Faustina II had been away from home for 2 months and had logged 2562 miles.
Impressions left after the voyage?
1 I have never liked (actually I have always hated) the North Sea and I this year I found no reason at all to change my mind. I would rather cross the Atlantic than the North Sea when it is, as it usually is, having bad weather. Never again.
2. Baltic Denmark is a very nice place to sail. There are lots of options – good marinas, good sheltered anchorages and the people are friendly. Drink is expensive but food is about what it is at home. Although we only briefly touched there this time, I would add that Sweden is also a great cruising destination.
3. Finding Internet access was difficult almost everywhere - not just in Denmark but also in Scotland. Access through a data link would be preferable.
4. The Navionics charts that can be loaded with an App onto a smart phone or tablet are really excellent and very easy to use. If the device has a built in GPS then it is as good as a plotter. If not, a separate GPS (such as the Dual GPS) linked to the tablet by wire or Bluetooth is as good. I also had a full set of 2014 Danish paper charts. I used them but not often. (They are available for purchase!)
5. LED lights in the cabin are terrific and use almost no power. If you don’t have them, change over to them this winter.
Faustina II had been away from home for 2 months and had logged 2562 miles.
Impressions left after the voyage?
1 I have never liked (actually I have always hated) the North Sea and I this year I found no reason at all to change my mind. I would rather cross the Atlantic than the North Sea when it is, as it usually is, having bad weather. Never again.
2. Baltic Denmark is a very nice place to sail. There are lots of options – good marinas, good sheltered anchorages and the people are friendly. Drink is expensive but food is about what it is at home. Although we only briefly touched there this time, I would add that Sweden is also a great cruising destination.
3. Finding Internet access was difficult almost everywhere - not just in Denmark but also in Scotland. Access through a data link would be preferable.
4. The Navionics charts that can be loaded with an App onto a smart phone or tablet are really excellent and very easy to use. If the device has a built in GPS then it is as good as a plotter. If not, a separate GPS (such as the Dual GPS) linked to the tablet by wire or Bluetooth is as good. I also had a full set of 2014 Danish paper charts. I used them but not often. (They are available for purchase!)
5. LED lights in the cabin are terrific and use almost no power. If you don’t have them, change over to them this winter.