2007 - Scotland
A daily log
Sun 17 Jun – Bangor to Rathlin
We had planned to depart on Thu 14 June but the weather was so bad that we delayed. We took a taxi to Bangor marina where I had pre-positioned F2 and loaded the remaining kit and food on board for a departure at 0900. Then the engine wouldn’t start so I called Bill Harrison who arrived at 1230 and told jokes for 30 minutes! The engine finally started without any help but it apparent that there is a fault either in the solenoid or the starter windings – the latter being most likely. We refuelled with 56 litres and topped up the OBM petrol cans.
We finally left Bangor at 1420 on what was quite a nice day with some blue sky but with banks of heavy cloud. Wind NNE2, sea slight. We motored north with the SOB program working perfectly. (I had had trouble getting the cursor to sty still but discovered a remedy that worked.)
1520. Abeam Black Head LH
1630. Close by the W side of Maidens. Fine wx.
1900. Abeam Torr Head. Tide still favourable but slackening.
(F/C E/NE 3-5 Showers then rain)
2045. Moored on NE side of pontoon in Rathlin harbour after the other boats helped by making some space for us.
Mon 18 Jun – Rathlin to West Loch Tarbert
I walked along the Mill Bay and saw seals and a heron. There was a large cable laying vessel bringing mains electricity to the island. Also the Scottish Lights ship ‘Pharos’ lying off.
1310. Slipped. Wx fine, partly cloudy. Tried to swing the compass in the bay without success. We rounded Rue Point at 1400 and then set all sail in a light NEly – but it died immediately and went to OTN.
Co.035°M to Gigha Sound under Main and engine. Tide was fair, strong at first (9kts+) then after overfalls less (7kts +SOG). Wind over tide increased as we approached Gigha Sound. Wind NE (too close to sail). Clouded over a bit and quite cool.
1750. Avoided a fishing boat and entered (1755) the Sound of Gigha
1812. Abeam Gigalum Rock West Card. A bit bumpy - wind over tide.
Two yachts in Ardminish Bay
1840. Abeam G buoy at N end of Gigha Sound. Co.050°M to West Loch Tarbert
1920. Entered West Loch Tarbert. No rain all day.
2000. Anchored at head of WLT.
Tue 19 Jun – West Loch Tarbert to Ardfern
Woke at 08230. Had slept well and warm.
Found that the batteries were low. The engine started but there was no charge. Rang Tom at Ardfern Marina – we will go there today.
Weighed at 1000.
1105. Out of WLT – wx good, cloudy but not too cold. Wind SE 2 – Sea very slight.
1225. Abeam Bow of Knap (Point of Knap). Wx getting greyer – hint of rain.
1300. Abeam Carraig an Daimh (N of Eilean Mor off Loch Sween.
1410. Abeam Ruadh Sgeir <
1445. Entered Loch Craignish (Ardfern)
1600. Secured alongside in Ardfern, berth #41. Visited the workshop. Steve the electrician came and soon found the problem – the splitter had corroded when the boat flooded.
Ann not too well but came to the Galley of Forth pub where we had fish cakes.
Ann went to bed and I watched ‘Divorcing Jack’.
Wed 20 Jun – Ardfern to Tinker’s Hole
I was up at 0730. Steve came at 0830 and fitted the new battery splitter by 1015. The rain was dire (It had been windy all night) but by mid-morning it was clearing.
We renewed the water and then took on 75l of diesel and slipped at about 1230. We dawdled along Loch Craignish, through Dorus Mor and over to Corryvreckan which we entered at 1430, 30 minutes before HW, and had a quiet transit. Ann decided that she didn’t want to go to my choice of anchorage but rather go on to Tinker's Hole. Wx now fine, partly cloudy with no wind. Motoring again through calm seas.
1615. Reached Tinker's Hole. One other boat anchored in the middle. Another boat came later.
Quiet evening with good wx – we had supper on deck. Quite early to bed.
Thu 21 Jun – Tinker’s Hole to Cragaig Bay, Ulva
Up at 0715 to make tea. Lovely sunny weather.
0900. Weighed and went round to Iona. Anchored in what I thought was Martyrs’ Bay (it wasn’t) and we then went over to Bull Hole where the anchorage was quiet and deserted!
Ann wasn’t too well again so I took the RIB to Iona and ‘did’ the Abbey -with coffee and biscuits for £1 at a charity affair in a nearby abbey support event.. I then went back to the boat.
At 1200 we weighed and headed north to Staffa. Now a lovely day with wind freshening a bit from the N. At Staffa I went off in the RIB to explore the caves while Ann pottered around in F2.
I rang sister Ann! Caves very special.
We then went NE to Ulva and anchored (with some difficulty) at Cragaig bay. Lovely spot.
I went ashore for a walk (2 campers in a tent) and fell asleep on the hill path in the warm and flowers. I went to check on seals and then had a shower and read before supper.
We played ‘Upwords’. Very quiet and beautiful evening.
Fri 22 Jun – Cragaig Bay to Arisaig
Up at 0830. Flat calm, not a breath. Thin cloud strip half way up the hills over on Mull.
0900. Weighed. We passed N of Little Colonsay island and raised the Main.
Wind NW2-3. Fair, some sun.
1020. Rounded Maisgeir (S of Gometra)
1105. Rubh’a Chaoil (W point of Mull)
1135. Abeam > Caliach Pt (NW Mull)
1250. Abeam Ardnamurchan. Fine and sunny with a cool N wind. Motoring
1305. Abeam Sanna Island
1315. Co. NE. Set all sail! First time on this trip. Making 5.5 kts quietly.
1615. Entered Arisaig and took a mooring buoy. £13.
Put the OBM on the RIB and went ashore for a walk along Shore Road. (to Rhu 3 ½ M) about a mile and back.
Later fell asleep in the cockpit in warm sun while Ann made supper. Quiet evening reading.
Sat 23 Jun – Arisaig
Up at 0900. Nly wind and grey skies. Not nice. There had been rain overnight. Strong winds forecast.
We went ashore for a walk along the shore road northwards to ‘Back of Kullock’ – about 2½ miles each way.
Came back via the cemetery!
We invited the crew of Ardela (? and Shirley) to drinks and then we went (alone) to have dinner at the ‘Old Library’ – quite a good meal and a nice change. We then took the RIB out along the bay to look at seals on the islands near the entrance. Lovely
Sun 24 Jun – Arisaig
More strong wind forecast and we decided to stay another day. I went to get the Sunday papers and we read them. In the afternoon we went ashore to look at the gardens – but couldn’t find them as Ann hadn’t read the instructions properly. At 1800 we went to ‘Adela’ for G&Ts and then, back on board, had a Fray Bentos supper.
We prepared for a start in the morning – and went to take on water.
Mon 25 Jun – Arisaig
Up at 0730 ready to go but the wind was still blowing quite hard from the N. Nice day otherwise but the wind f/c still bad. May improve later.
We stayed on board all day.
Tue 26 Jun – Arisaig to Loch Hourne
Wind still N but reduced to about F4. Cold. We slipped at 0915 with Main with 1 reef. Motored to clear entrance at 1000 and after a while we were able to sail (Wind NNW, our course 025M) but after 15 minutes the wind died to <10kts and we motored on. Not so cold now.
1120. Abeam Mallaig. Turned into Loch Hourne and met ‘Sai See’ (Chris and Valentine Thornhill). We bought ½ a bucket of prawns from a passing fishing boat and then went through the four Narrows with them to the head of the loch where we anchored for a while.
1620. Left the head of the loch with ‘Sai See’.
1730 Off Arnisdale along the N shore of loch.
1900. Reached Sandaig Is but the wind was now W and blowing into the anchorage. We retreated back into Loch Hourne to Rassaich Is.
1950. Anchored in the cut between the mainland and the island. The Thornhills’ came for supper to eat our prawns. VG! They left at about 2330.
Wed 27 Jun – Loch Hourne to Tortaig
Cold and windy – W4-ish. Showers We were hit by a squall at 1015 and the anchor which had dragged overnight let loose and we had to start the engine and clear out quickly. Cold and wet.
1115 Anchored in Sandaig.
1215. Weighed and set genoa. Going N through the Sound of Sleat.
1340. Engine on at N end of Sound. Showers. Genoa again as we went E on Loch Alsh to the anchorage at Tortaig. We ‘sailed’ near the castle first. Lots of weed in Tortaig. ‘Sai See’ arrived later.
At 1730 we all walked to a ‘broch’ about a mile away along the shore to the west. Fascinating. I got wet as I hadn’t taken an anorak. We had drinks on Sai See at 1930 and then back to F2 for steaks. Bed at 2230.
Thu 28 Jun – Tortaig to Slumbay, Loch Carron
Quiet night – slept nearly 10 hours! Damp morning but ok. No wind but warmer.
0945. Slipped.
1020. Through the narrows (Slioch) into Loch Alsh. Rain. Wind W3-5.
1130. Alongside the pontoon at Kyle of Lochalsh to shop at the Coop. Bought a new hose, Gaz and took on water. Lunch.
1340. Slipped Wind W4, showery. Under the Skye bridge. Genoa and engine.
1430. Engine off going NE up Loch Carron (past Plockton)
1645. Took a VM at Slumbay hbr at the E end of Loch Carron.
‘Sai See’ arrived later and anchored off the village ¾ mile away.
We watched ‘Two Weeks Notice’. Bed at 2230. Fine evening
Fri 29 Jun – Slumbay to Plockton
We awoke late at 0945. Some sun and quiet. NW breeze came up at 1030 but fine and warmer.
1115. Slipped under engine then Main and genoa to sail down loch.
12145. After a tricky sail with flukey winds we motored the last bit to Plockton and there took an outside mooring (£12) behind ‘Adela’.
After lunch we went ashore for a nice walk (Jimmy’s Walk) around the headland. We then went to an exhibition with St Kilda pictures and Miriam said that I could use her network with my laptop. We had tea on board and then I went back and updated the ICC website.
After supper we watched a dreadful film (How to lose a guy in 10 days)
Sat 30 Jun – Plockton to Fladdy Island
I went ashore to buy the D Tel and after b’fast we shipped the |OBM and at 1030 we slipped.
1130 Main and genoa. Wind S2-3. Fair. South of Righa Na H-Uamha (NE of Crowlin Is)
1205. Abeam S end of Crowlin Is
1300 Abeam Sgeir Thraid rocks
1330-1430. Engine on & off. Wind varying in speed and direction.
1425. Through Narrows of Raasay. Wind N4. Engine onat cruising revs. Main only. Sun in, cooler. Washing out!
1500. Into a tacking race with another boat.
1530. Tacked to Stbd – well ahead. (I don’t think he is racing!!) North of Torvaig.
1645. Anchored in south bight of Eilean Fladdy (NW Raasay). Raining!
Sun 1 Jul – Fladdy I to South Rona
Up very late – raining. Sun came out later and after breakfast we went for a good walk along the shore on a good path.
Lunch
1330. Weighed. Out through the gap at LW – quite narrow!. Now a nice day. Wind N3-4 and not too cool. Some sun and the cloud higher. Good vis
Mon 2 Jul – South Rona
Tue 3 Jul – Loch Gairloch to Tarbert (Harris)
Slipped at 0945. Anchor very muddy. Wind S2. Fair. Decided to head for Outer Hebrides.
1100. Engine off for a while – sailing slowly
1330. Engine on.
1305. Abeam Eilean Trodday < 1/2M (at the north end of Skye). Rain starting.
1330. Abeam < 1/2M Sgeir nam Maol beacon
1355. Close abeam < Engenie Rock SCB
1415. Close abeam Sgeir Griadach SCB in the entrance to East Loch Tarbert (S of Scalpay Is)
1630. Anchored N of Scotasay I.
Fish farm near by. Sunny and fine.
Wed 4 Jul – Tarbert (towards St Kilda) then Taransay I.
0720. Weighed Cloudy and some light rain. Wind 0 – S1
0745. In outer harbour. Gave a TR to Stornoway CG.
0935. Off Renish Pt. Turned into the Sound of Harris. Grey, grey and no wind.
NE/Se 3-4 Mod Good
(f/c Var 2-3 occ 4. NE5-7 Rain/Showers)
1110. Abeam N end of Pabbay I. (Brenish Pt). Grey & gloomy weather
1500. Aborted the voyage to St Kilda when 20M off. Headed for Loch Resort 060°.
1700. Decided to head for West Loch Tarbert 110° 15M.
1945. Abeam S tip of Arrd Varnish.
2015. Anchored on south side of the isthmus between Taransay and Aird Vanish.
Thu 5 Jul – Taransay I to Loch Maddy
1030 Weighed. Engine. Drizzly with low cloud. Wind SW2
1120. Off Toe Head (west end of South Harris). Turned to take photos of waves on rocks.
1300. Through Sound of Harris and abeam Dun-Aarin Is. Turning south. Very pale grey and drizzly with poor vis. Admired the car ferry making its way through tortuous channel.
(f/c S 5-7 bec V3 or less)
1410 Entered Loch Maddy (Weavers hbr)
1500. Anchored off the harbour (all moorings occupied)
I ordered a car for tomorrow at the Tourist Info Centre at the jetty head and then walked to the village shop.
We had a meal ashore in the new restaurant. Very good..
We took on water after dinner at HW. Red reel on jetty
Fri 6 Jul – Car in Uist
We caught the 0810 bus to Benbecula (PO bus). The car cost £28 + fuel for the day. We explore Uist. The beaches looked like the WI (incl cricket at one place).
Sat 7 Jul (07/07/07) – Loch Maddy to Rodel harbour
We rowed ashore to buy milk and to see the ‘museum’. There were no national papers and the museum was very disappointing.
1045. We slipped. Wind W4, generally fine though there had been rain earlier. We had a great sail N past the entrance to the Sound of Harris and entered Rodel Harbour at near HW. The harbour is almost completely surrounded by rocks or shoreline and is only accessible at or near HW. We took one of the three mooring buoys.
In the vening we went to the hotel for (a good) supper and then walkwed up the hill to explore the old church (no disused) of St Clements.
Sun 8 Jul – Rodel Harbour to East Loch Tarbert
Very nasty morning. Wind W5 or more with heavy rain. It improved a bit by lunchtime so we slipped at 0110.
Wind WSW5-6. We went N with the tide under Main only.
1455 Decided to turn into East Loch Tarbert (ELT). Yankee up Good sail.
1555 Anchored in Loch Cean Dibig at Kendibig in ELT). 35m of chain in excellent holding. Wind stuill SW and fresh.
Mon 9 Jul – ELT to Loch Ariveg
1000. Weighed under engine
(0600 f/c S4 or 5 occ 6 bec Var 2-3 then later W3-4 occ 5. R. Sh)
1045. Under Scalpay bridge (20m). Out to sea and headed 060°. Wind flukey, first SE and then OTN NE! Rotten forecast – as usual
1200. Abeam Rubh’ Usenis (headland). Sea very bumpy. Used main to keep boat steady.
We called into Loch Erisort and anchored off Lemreway, N of En Inbhard I. for lunch at 1300.
We then went on to Loch Ariveg and initially anchored at the north end. We took Poppy to the West end to find Alison (Faulkner). She told us of a mooring nearby that we could use so we weighed anchor and moved. Alison later came for a drink bringing 6 eggs.
Tue 10 Jul – Loch Ariveg to Stornoway.
Alison arrived at breakfast time with 12 scallops in their shells. We motor sailed north to Stornoway.
We were given a space by the main jetty with an open wall. They provided a plank for our use. I went to lean how to open the scallops and later Ann made a wonderful; meal of them. I ordered a car for the morrow, We explored the harbour with Poppy and saw seals by the trawlers. I found a laundry and handed in three bags of it.
Wed 11 Jul – Car in Lewis
We had a Fiesta for the day and collected a new Gaz bottle. We then went to the west coast to see a Black House, a black house village, the standing stones at Callanish and a wonderful broch. All interesting. We had nice weather. We picnicked by the sea and then returned to Stornoway by 1530 to do a shop at the Coop.
Picked up our washing and then met ‘Asti’ who came to look at the Raytheon self steering but he decided that he couldn’t fix it. I took the car back and we had chops and a birthday cake (12 candles) – and then watched the ‘Ipress File’.
Thu 12 Jul – Stornoway to Loch Roe
We refuelled the boat (158litres).
1000. Left the harbour under engine. Starter motor getting worse. Wind S2 and increasing. Neither B&G nor Raytheon working and the Aries wind vane a bit stiff and not very responsive. Ann and I steered in shifts
1100. Off Chicken Rock
1200. 58°10’.2, 006°06’.2
1515. Into Loch Roe near the Old man of Stoer
1540. Turned around. Fed up with the grey weather and no autopilot.
1600. Out of loch and 15 minutes alter past the OMofS. again. Heading S along the coast. Still just grey but not so cold – nearly calm
1645. Calm (f/c was SE3-4!). We had motored all day with the Main up.
1700. Vis reduced to 1 mile.
1750. Anchored in Loch Roe in Pool Bay
Fri 13 Jul – Loch Roe to Gairloch
0915. Weighed. Co. 240°M. Wind SW4
1020. Abeam Rubha Coigeagh.
1130. 4 1/2M NNW of Priest I. Fine and cold. Wind WSW ¾. A BIT of sun! Aries working quite well. Main and engine.
1340. Rounded Rubha Reidh LH. Drizzling and cold. Wind SW2. Passed the ‘natural arches’.
1415. Abeam Melvaig
1445. Turned into Gairloch north of Longa I.
Tried to anchor in Gairloch harbour but we were chased away.
1555. Anchored in Loch Shieldaig at the SE corner of Gairloch. Calm and fine but no sun.
Sat 14 Jul – Gairloch / Loch Shieldaig
The weather was horrid. Wet and cloudy. We decided to stay. Later we went over to Gairloch jetty in Poppy to buy a D Tel and some OBM fuel. No petrol there. We then went over to the south side to have a slow lunch in the Bada cro pub. No mussles. I had a cheeseburger and wine. We returned to the boat for a sleepy afternoon. In pm we went in Poppy (in drizzle and rain) to search for Otters, without luck. Had supper and then watched the film ‘Gold’
Sun 15 Jul – Gairloch to Loch Torridon/Loch Shieldaig
A nicer morning. Wind SW2/3 with some sun but still threatening rain.
1000. Weighed and went slowly along the loch looking for whales to the east of Longa I. No whales!
100. Rounded Sron na Carra headland still motoring. Skye I. covered in low cloud but we had only 50% cloud. Quite nice.
1140. Turned into Loch Torridon.
1330 Anchored in Loch Shieldaig by Kathryn’s hotel ‘Tigh an Eilean’.
We went ashore to have supper in the restaurant – courtesy Cathryn. Afterwards had a chat with Chris – he had cooked the main course.
Mon 16 Jul – Loch Shieldaig
Horrid weather. We decided to stay. (It cleared later and we decided to go ashore to have a walk in the sunshine. We had a bar lunch. In the mid afternoon I decided to charge the batteries but the starter motor wouldn’t work. I went ashore to use Kathryn’s PC to find a Perkins rep in Inverness and found ‘Precision Diesel Engines. Sadly too late to contact them. We had supper in the hotel bar.
Tue 17 Jul – Loch Shieldaig
At 0845 I rang the Perkins people (using my mobile) and ordered a new starter motor. Later Ann went to Inverness with Kathryn whilst I stayed on board, cleaned the floor and read. Even sunbathed in shorts!! When Ann got back Kathryn, Ann and I had a bar meal.
Wed 18 Jul - Loch Shieldaig and by car to Inverness
I waited on board all morning in case the Perkins people rang. I rang them at 1330 and the package had just arrived. We went ashore and I drove Ann and myself in Kathryn’s car to Inverness top collect the starter motor. £370! We then went to the Eastgate Centre to buy a book for Kathryn. We topped her car up with petrol and drove back to Shieldaig. We had another bar meal and then I fitted the new motor. I took in the second anchor from the bow (deployed ready for use if necessary) and stowed it all away.
Had a warm shower (after Ann). Hurt my back a bit – bed with a hottie.
Good weather all day.
Thu 19 Jul – Shieldaig to Plockton
We went to buy stores at the shop and then at 1000, we weighed. Wind ESE2/3, cool, cloud with bright areas.
1115. Out of Loch Torridon. Turned S and so did the wind - before it died. Nice enough otherwise. Still motoring.
1245. Close by Range buoy B
1300. Sailing. Wind NW2-3.
1500. Between Eilean Mor and Loch Toscaig, sailing and trying to catch 43ft ‘Sandpiper’. Didn’t quite.1645. Wind died. Engine on.
1630. Took a VM at Plockton.
Fri 20 Jul – Plockton to Sandaig
1000. Slipped. Wind had been NE 3-4 now became E1. Motored S to Kyle of Loch Alsh calling to look at an anchorage en route.
Made a mega cock-up at the Loch Alsh jetty! Then took on water and supplies (from Coop) and Ann reported her BMI card lost.
1345. Slipped but then stopped for lunch in mid-loch. Sunny and moderately warm.
Motored on and drifted down Kyle Rhea and the Sound of Sleat in the hoot sunshine looking for otters. Went close along the E shore of the Sound and then anchored n Sandaig. Very warm. Four other boats.
Sat 21 Jul – Sandaig to Eigg
A startling display all around the bay by 5 or 6 bottle nose dolphins for about 90 minutes. Took many pics.
1045. Weighed. Nice sail (all sails) with wind E3 until 1320 when the wind died. Motored on from 4M N of Mallaig. Fair.
1445. Wind died, engine on.
1620. Anchored in Eigg – Poll Nam Partan.
Walked ashore to visit caves and then had squat lobsters in the old jetty café. Excellent. I fetched the laptop and updated the ICC website.
Sun 22 Jul – Eigg to Muck
Woke at 0900
1030. Weighed. No wind, no waves, n swell. Fair but no sun
Went down through the jetty aea and then by the sea caves.
Sail / Motored to Muck
1215. Anchored witth some difficulty at Port Mor in Muck. Sun.
We went ashore and walked across the island on the road to Gallanach Bay. We met Lawrence the laird and his daughter in law Ruth (Broken ankle). She suggested that we walk back to the harbour over the fields which we did but Ann got tired. I went on to collect the RIB and went to collect her from the shore. A bit scary as I couldn't find her. She had walked back!
Late lunch in restaurant (Jenny the laird's wife) and idle remainder of the day on board.
Mon 23 Jul – Muck to Iona (Bull Hole)
1015. Weighed. Fair, wind W2. The wind rose and fell and we went south to Coll. All sails set but engine too most of the time. Weather became misty and damp.
1200. Abeam N end of Coll.
1330. Took a VM at Arinagour, Coll. Weather improving.
1500. Slipped under sail. Wind NNW2, fair.
Tried to sail the slight wind was dead astern and then died. Sunny but frustrating.
Went through the Trishnish Islands N of Lunga.
Had a good sail S to Iona.
1830. Anchored in Bull Hole opposite Iona.
Tue 24 Jul – Iona to Ardfern anchorage
0900. Weigthed. NE2 Yankee.
1130 Sailing. Wind NE4. Lovely
1230 Engine.
1330 Sailing again. SW4
1420. Off Dun Chonmill
Through the Sound of Luish and met up with Ariadne (Alan Leonard) and took pics of each other. They went on to Crinan. We turned into Loch and anchored in the bay near Ardfern.
Wed 25 Jul – Ardfern to Gigha
Horrid wet windy morning. As we had breakfast it improved and we slipped at 0930. (Very good muddy anchorage)
Now fair with SW3-4 (OTN)
1000 Off Crinan Bay. Waves rough.
1030. Abeam Ruadh Sgeir LH
1100. Abeam Corsaig I (opp Tayvallich). Now sunny with low cloud over the islandas. Wind SW3. Waves slight.
1220. Inside the MacCormaig I. Fair. SE3
1420. Abeam N end of Gigha. Weather glooming down. S3-4 and grey
Following a fearsome squall as we approached we took a VM in Ardminish Bay at 1500 in lovely weather!
There were thundery and heavy squalls all evening with some strong S wind.
Thu 26 Jul – Gigha to Bangor
Sunny intervals with cloud and SW4
0920. Slipped. Main + 1 reef. Lumpy sea at first but then better.
1215. 9M N of Mull of Kintyre. Nearly calm making 5½ kts but squalls ahead.
Ran close along the Antrim coast with cloud coming of it as though it was volcanic. Rainbows and sunny patches. Beautiful.
1950. Moored in Bangor.
We had planned to depart on Thu 14 June but the weather was so bad that we delayed. We took a taxi to Bangor marina where I had pre-positioned F2 and loaded the remaining kit and food on board for a departure at 0900. Then the engine wouldn’t start so I called Bill Harrison who arrived at 1230 and told jokes for 30 minutes! The engine finally started without any help but it apparent that there is a fault either in the solenoid or the starter windings – the latter being most likely. We refuelled with 56 litres and topped up the OBM petrol cans.
We finally left Bangor at 1420 on what was quite a nice day with some blue sky but with banks of heavy cloud. Wind NNE2, sea slight. We motored north with the SOB program working perfectly. (I had had trouble getting the cursor to sty still but discovered a remedy that worked.)
1520. Abeam Black Head LH
1630. Close by the W side of Maidens. Fine wx.
1900. Abeam Torr Head. Tide still favourable but slackening.
(F/C E/NE 3-5 Showers then rain)
2045. Moored on NE side of pontoon in Rathlin harbour after the other boats helped by making some space for us.
Mon 18 Jun – Rathlin to West Loch Tarbert
I walked along the Mill Bay and saw seals and a heron. There was a large cable laying vessel bringing mains electricity to the island. Also the Scottish Lights ship ‘Pharos’ lying off.
1310. Slipped. Wx fine, partly cloudy. Tried to swing the compass in the bay without success. We rounded Rue Point at 1400 and then set all sail in a light NEly – but it died immediately and went to OTN.
Co.035°M to Gigha Sound under Main and engine. Tide was fair, strong at first (9kts+) then after overfalls less (7kts +SOG). Wind over tide increased as we approached Gigha Sound. Wind NE (too close to sail). Clouded over a bit and quite cool.
1750. Avoided a fishing boat and entered (1755) the Sound of Gigha
1812. Abeam Gigalum Rock West Card. A bit bumpy - wind over tide.
Two yachts in Ardminish Bay
1840. Abeam G buoy at N end of Gigha Sound. Co.050°M to West Loch Tarbert
1920. Entered West Loch Tarbert. No rain all day.
2000. Anchored at head of WLT.
Tue 19 Jun – West Loch Tarbert to Ardfern
Woke at 08230. Had slept well and warm.
Found that the batteries were low. The engine started but there was no charge. Rang Tom at Ardfern Marina – we will go there today.
Weighed at 1000.
1105. Out of WLT – wx good, cloudy but not too cold. Wind SE 2 – Sea very slight.
1225. Abeam Bow of Knap (Point of Knap). Wx getting greyer – hint of rain.
1300. Abeam Carraig an Daimh (N of Eilean Mor off Loch Sween.
1410. Abeam Ruadh Sgeir <
1445. Entered Loch Craignish (Ardfern)
1600. Secured alongside in Ardfern, berth #41. Visited the workshop. Steve the electrician came and soon found the problem – the splitter had corroded when the boat flooded.
Ann not too well but came to the Galley of Forth pub where we had fish cakes.
Ann went to bed and I watched ‘Divorcing Jack’.
Wed 20 Jun – Ardfern to Tinker’s Hole
I was up at 0730. Steve came at 0830 and fitted the new battery splitter by 1015. The rain was dire (It had been windy all night) but by mid-morning it was clearing.
We renewed the water and then took on 75l of diesel and slipped at about 1230. We dawdled along Loch Craignish, through Dorus Mor and over to Corryvreckan which we entered at 1430, 30 minutes before HW, and had a quiet transit. Ann decided that she didn’t want to go to my choice of anchorage but rather go on to Tinker's Hole. Wx now fine, partly cloudy with no wind. Motoring again through calm seas.
1615. Reached Tinker's Hole. One other boat anchored in the middle. Another boat came later.
Quiet evening with good wx – we had supper on deck. Quite early to bed.
Thu 21 Jun – Tinker’s Hole to Cragaig Bay, Ulva
Up at 0715 to make tea. Lovely sunny weather.
0900. Weighed and went round to Iona. Anchored in what I thought was Martyrs’ Bay (it wasn’t) and we then went over to Bull Hole where the anchorage was quiet and deserted!
Ann wasn’t too well again so I took the RIB to Iona and ‘did’ the Abbey -with coffee and biscuits for £1 at a charity affair in a nearby abbey support event.. I then went back to the boat.
At 1200 we weighed and headed north to Staffa. Now a lovely day with wind freshening a bit from the N. At Staffa I went off in the RIB to explore the caves while Ann pottered around in F2.
I rang sister Ann! Caves very special.
We then went NE to Ulva and anchored (with some difficulty) at Cragaig bay. Lovely spot.
I went ashore for a walk (2 campers in a tent) and fell asleep on the hill path in the warm and flowers. I went to check on seals and then had a shower and read before supper.
We played ‘Upwords’. Very quiet and beautiful evening.
Fri 22 Jun – Cragaig Bay to Arisaig
Up at 0830. Flat calm, not a breath. Thin cloud strip half way up the hills over on Mull.
0900. Weighed. We passed N of Little Colonsay island and raised the Main.
Wind NW2-3. Fair, some sun.
1020. Rounded Maisgeir (S of Gometra)
1105. Rubh’a Chaoil (W point of Mull)
1135. Abeam > Caliach Pt (NW Mull)
1250. Abeam Ardnamurchan. Fine and sunny with a cool N wind. Motoring
1305. Abeam Sanna Island
1315. Co. NE. Set all sail! First time on this trip. Making 5.5 kts quietly.
1615. Entered Arisaig and took a mooring buoy. £13.
Put the OBM on the RIB and went ashore for a walk along Shore Road. (to Rhu 3 ½ M) about a mile and back.
Later fell asleep in the cockpit in warm sun while Ann made supper. Quiet evening reading.
Sat 23 Jun – Arisaig
Up at 0900. Nly wind and grey skies. Not nice. There had been rain overnight. Strong winds forecast.
We went ashore for a walk along the shore road northwards to ‘Back of Kullock’ – about 2½ miles each way.
Came back via the cemetery!
We invited the crew of Ardela (? and Shirley) to drinks and then we went (alone) to have dinner at the ‘Old Library’ – quite a good meal and a nice change. We then took the RIB out along the bay to look at seals on the islands near the entrance. Lovely
Sun 24 Jun – Arisaig
More strong wind forecast and we decided to stay another day. I went to get the Sunday papers and we read them. In the afternoon we went ashore to look at the gardens – but couldn’t find them as Ann hadn’t read the instructions properly. At 1800 we went to ‘Adela’ for G&Ts and then, back on board, had a Fray Bentos supper.
We prepared for a start in the morning – and went to take on water.
Mon 25 Jun – Arisaig
Up at 0730 ready to go but the wind was still blowing quite hard from the N. Nice day otherwise but the wind f/c still bad. May improve later.
We stayed on board all day.
Tue 26 Jun – Arisaig to Loch Hourne
Wind still N but reduced to about F4. Cold. We slipped at 0915 with Main with 1 reef. Motored to clear entrance at 1000 and after a while we were able to sail (Wind NNW, our course 025M) but after 15 minutes the wind died to <10kts and we motored on. Not so cold now.
1120. Abeam Mallaig. Turned into Loch Hourne and met ‘Sai See’ (Chris and Valentine Thornhill). We bought ½ a bucket of prawns from a passing fishing boat and then went through the four Narrows with them to the head of the loch where we anchored for a while.
1620. Left the head of the loch with ‘Sai See’.
1730 Off Arnisdale along the N shore of loch.
1900. Reached Sandaig Is but the wind was now W and blowing into the anchorage. We retreated back into Loch Hourne to Rassaich Is.
1950. Anchored in the cut between the mainland and the island. The Thornhills’ came for supper to eat our prawns. VG! They left at about 2330.
Wed 27 Jun – Loch Hourne to Tortaig
Cold and windy – W4-ish. Showers We were hit by a squall at 1015 and the anchor which had dragged overnight let loose and we had to start the engine and clear out quickly. Cold and wet.
1115 Anchored in Sandaig.
1215. Weighed and set genoa. Going N through the Sound of Sleat.
1340. Engine on at N end of Sound. Showers. Genoa again as we went E on Loch Alsh to the anchorage at Tortaig. We ‘sailed’ near the castle first. Lots of weed in Tortaig. ‘Sai See’ arrived later.
At 1730 we all walked to a ‘broch’ about a mile away along the shore to the west. Fascinating. I got wet as I hadn’t taken an anorak. We had drinks on Sai See at 1930 and then back to F2 for steaks. Bed at 2230.
Thu 28 Jun – Tortaig to Slumbay, Loch Carron
Quiet night – slept nearly 10 hours! Damp morning but ok. No wind but warmer.
0945. Slipped.
1020. Through the narrows (Slioch) into Loch Alsh. Rain. Wind W3-5.
1130. Alongside the pontoon at Kyle of Lochalsh to shop at the Coop. Bought a new hose, Gaz and took on water. Lunch.
1340. Slipped Wind W4, showery. Under the Skye bridge. Genoa and engine.
1430. Engine off going NE up Loch Carron (past Plockton)
1645. Took a VM at Slumbay hbr at the E end of Loch Carron.
‘Sai See’ arrived later and anchored off the village ¾ mile away.
We watched ‘Two Weeks Notice’. Bed at 2230. Fine evening
Fri 29 Jun – Slumbay to Plockton
We awoke late at 0945. Some sun and quiet. NW breeze came up at 1030 but fine and warmer.
1115. Slipped under engine then Main and genoa to sail down loch.
12145. After a tricky sail with flukey winds we motored the last bit to Plockton and there took an outside mooring (£12) behind ‘Adela’.
After lunch we went ashore for a nice walk (Jimmy’s Walk) around the headland. We then went to an exhibition with St Kilda pictures and Miriam said that I could use her network with my laptop. We had tea on board and then I went back and updated the ICC website.
After supper we watched a dreadful film (How to lose a guy in 10 days)
Sat 30 Jun – Plockton to Fladdy Island
I went ashore to buy the D Tel and after b’fast we shipped the |OBM and at 1030 we slipped.
1130 Main and genoa. Wind S2-3. Fair. South of Righa Na H-Uamha (NE of Crowlin Is)
1205. Abeam S end of Crowlin Is
1300 Abeam Sgeir Thraid rocks
1330-1430. Engine on & off. Wind varying in speed and direction.
1425. Through Narrows of Raasay. Wind N4. Engine onat cruising revs. Main only. Sun in, cooler. Washing out!
1500. Into a tacking race with another boat.
1530. Tacked to Stbd – well ahead. (I don’t think he is racing!!) North of Torvaig.
1645. Anchored in south bight of Eilean Fladdy (NW Raasay). Raining!
Sun 1 Jul – Fladdy I to South Rona
Up very late – raining. Sun came out later and after breakfast we went for a good walk along the shore on a good path.
Lunch
1330. Weighed. Out through the gap at LW – quite narrow!. Now a nice day. Wind N3-4 and not too cool. Some sun and the cloud higher. Good vis
Mon 2 Jul – South Rona
Tue 3 Jul – Loch Gairloch to Tarbert (Harris)
Slipped at 0945. Anchor very muddy. Wind S2. Fair. Decided to head for Outer Hebrides.
1100. Engine off for a while – sailing slowly
1330. Engine on.
1305. Abeam Eilean Trodday < 1/2M (at the north end of Skye). Rain starting.
1330. Abeam < 1/2M Sgeir nam Maol beacon
1355. Close abeam < Engenie Rock SCB
1415. Close abeam Sgeir Griadach SCB in the entrance to East Loch Tarbert (S of Scalpay Is)
1630. Anchored N of Scotasay I.
Fish farm near by. Sunny and fine.
Wed 4 Jul – Tarbert (towards St Kilda) then Taransay I.
0720. Weighed Cloudy and some light rain. Wind 0 – S1
0745. In outer harbour. Gave a TR to Stornoway CG.
0935. Off Renish Pt. Turned into the Sound of Harris. Grey, grey and no wind.
NE/Se 3-4 Mod Good
(f/c Var 2-3 occ 4. NE5-7 Rain/Showers)
1110. Abeam N end of Pabbay I. (Brenish Pt). Grey & gloomy weather
1500. Aborted the voyage to St Kilda when 20M off. Headed for Loch Resort 060°.
1700. Decided to head for West Loch Tarbert 110° 15M.
1945. Abeam S tip of Arrd Varnish.
2015. Anchored on south side of the isthmus between Taransay and Aird Vanish.
Thu 5 Jul – Taransay I to Loch Maddy
1030 Weighed. Engine. Drizzly with low cloud. Wind SW2
1120. Off Toe Head (west end of South Harris). Turned to take photos of waves on rocks.
1300. Through Sound of Harris and abeam Dun-Aarin Is. Turning south. Very pale grey and drizzly with poor vis. Admired the car ferry making its way through tortuous channel.
(f/c S 5-7 bec V3 or less)
1410 Entered Loch Maddy (Weavers hbr)
1500. Anchored off the harbour (all moorings occupied)
I ordered a car for tomorrow at the Tourist Info Centre at the jetty head and then walked to the village shop.
We had a meal ashore in the new restaurant. Very good..
We took on water after dinner at HW. Red reel on jetty
Fri 6 Jul – Car in Uist
We caught the 0810 bus to Benbecula (PO bus). The car cost £28 + fuel for the day. We explore Uist. The beaches looked like the WI (incl cricket at one place).
Sat 7 Jul (07/07/07) – Loch Maddy to Rodel harbour
We rowed ashore to buy milk and to see the ‘museum’. There were no national papers and the museum was very disappointing.
1045. We slipped. Wind W4, generally fine though there had been rain earlier. We had a great sail N past the entrance to the Sound of Harris and entered Rodel Harbour at near HW. The harbour is almost completely surrounded by rocks or shoreline and is only accessible at or near HW. We took one of the three mooring buoys.
In the vening we went to the hotel for (a good) supper and then walkwed up the hill to explore the old church (no disused) of St Clements.
Sun 8 Jul – Rodel Harbour to East Loch Tarbert
Very nasty morning. Wind W5 or more with heavy rain. It improved a bit by lunchtime so we slipped at 0110.
Wind WSW5-6. We went N with the tide under Main only.
1455 Decided to turn into East Loch Tarbert (ELT). Yankee up Good sail.
1555 Anchored in Loch Cean Dibig at Kendibig in ELT). 35m of chain in excellent holding. Wind stuill SW and fresh.
Mon 9 Jul – ELT to Loch Ariveg
1000. Weighed under engine
(0600 f/c S4 or 5 occ 6 bec Var 2-3 then later W3-4 occ 5. R. Sh)
1045. Under Scalpay bridge (20m). Out to sea and headed 060°. Wind flukey, first SE and then OTN NE! Rotten forecast – as usual
1200. Abeam Rubh’ Usenis (headland). Sea very bumpy. Used main to keep boat steady.
We called into Loch Erisort and anchored off Lemreway, N of En Inbhard I. for lunch at 1300.
We then went on to Loch Ariveg and initially anchored at the north end. We took Poppy to the West end to find Alison (Faulkner). She told us of a mooring nearby that we could use so we weighed anchor and moved. Alison later came for a drink bringing 6 eggs.
Tue 10 Jul – Loch Ariveg to Stornoway.
Alison arrived at breakfast time with 12 scallops in their shells. We motor sailed north to Stornoway.
We were given a space by the main jetty with an open wall. They provided a plank for our use. I went to lean how to open the scallops and later Ann made a wonderful; meal of them. I ordered a car for the morrow, We explored the harbour with Poppy and saw seals by the trawlers. I found a laundry and handed in three bags of it.
Wed 11 Jul – Car in Lewis
We had a Fiesta for the day and collected a new Gaz bottle. We then went to the west coast to see a Black House, a black house village, the standing stones at Callanish and a wonderful broch. All interesting. We had nice weather. We picnicked by the sea and then returned to Stornoway by 1530 to do a shop at the Coop.
Picked up our washing and then met ‘Asti’ who came to look at the Raytheon self steering but he decided that he couldn’t fix it. I took the car back and we had chops and a birthday cake (12 candles) – and then watched the ‘Ipress File’.
Thu 12 Jul – Stornoway to Loch Roe
We refuelled the boat (158litres).
1000. Left the harbour under engine. Starter motor getting worse. Wind S2 and increasing. Neither B&G nor Raytheon working and the Aries wind vane a bit stiff and not very responsive. Ann and I steered in shifts
1100. Off Chicken Rock
1200. 58°10’.2, 006°06’.2
1515. Into Loch Roe near the Old man of Stoer
1540. Turned around. Fed up with the grey weather and no autopilot.
1600. Out of loch and 15 minutes alter past the OMofS. again. Heading S along the coast. Still just grey but not so cold – nearly calm
1645. Calm (f/c was SE3-4!). We had motored all day with the Main up.
1700. Vis reduced to 1 mile.
1750. Anchored in Loch Roe in Pool Bay
Fri 13 Jul – Loch Roe to Gairloch
0915. Weighed. Co. 240°M. Wind SW4
1020. Abeam Rubha Coigeagh.
1130. 4 1/2M NNW of Priest I. Fine and cold. Wind WSW ¾. A BIT of sun! Aries working quite well. Main and engine.
1340. Rounded Rubha Reidh LH. Drizzling and cold. Wind SW2. Passed the ‘natural arches’.
1415. Abeam Melvaig
1445. Turned into Gairloch north of Longa I.
Tried to anchor in Gairloch harbour but we were chased away.
1555. Anchored in Loch Shieldaig at the SE corner of Gairloch. Calm and fine but no sun.
Sat 14 Jul – Gairloch / Loch Shieldaig
The weather was horrid. Wet and cloudy. We decided to stay. Later we went over to Gairloch jetty in Poppy to buy a D Tel and some OBM fuel. No petrol there. We then went over to the south side to have a slow lunch in the Bada cro pub. No mussles. I had a cheeseburger and wine. We returned to the boat for a sleepy afternoon. In pm we went in Poppy (in drizzle and rain) to search for Otters, without luck. Had supper and then watched the film ‘Gold’
Sun 15 Jul – Gairloch to Loch Torridon/Loch Shieldaig
A nicer morning. Wind SW2/3 with some sun but still threatening rain.
1000. Weighed and went slowly along the loch looking for whales to the east of Longa I. No whales!
100. Rounded Sron na Carra headland still motoring. Skye I. covered in low cloud but we had only 50% cloud. Quite nice.
1140. Turned into Loch Torridon.
1330 Anchored in Loch Shieldaig by Kathryn’s hotel ‘Tigh an Eilean’.
We went ashore to have supper in the restaurant – courtesy Cathryn. Afterwards had a chat with Chris – he had cooked the main course.
Mon 16 Jul – Loch Shieldaig
Horrid weather. We decided to stay. (It cleared later and we decided to go ashore to have a walk in the sunshine. We had a bar lunch. In the mid afternoon I decided to charge the batteries but the starter motor wouldn’t work. I went ashore to use Kathryn’s PC to find a Perkins rep in Inverness and found ‘Precision Diesel Engines. Sadly too late to contact them. We had supper in the hotel bar.
Tue 17 Jul – Loch Shieldaig
At 0845 I rang the Perkins people (using my mobile) and ordered a new starter motor. Later Ann went to Inverness with Kathryn whilst I stayed on board, cleaned the floor and read. Even sunbathed in shorts!! When Ann got back Kathryn, Ann and I had a bar meal.
Wed 18 Jul - Loch Shieldaig and by car to Inverness
I waited on board all morning in case the Perkins people rang. I rang them at 1330 and the package had just arrived. We went ashore and I drove Ann and myself in Kathryn’s car to Inverness top collect the starter motor. £370! We then went to the Eastgate Centre to buy a book for Kathryn. We topped her car up with petrol and drove back to Shieldaig. We had another bar meal and then I fitted the new motor. I took in the second anchor from the bow (deployed ready for use if necessary) and stowed it all away.
Had a warm shower (after Ann). Hurt my back a bit – bed with a hottie.
Good weather all day.
Thu 19 Jul – Shieldaig to Plockton
We went to buy stores at the shop and then at 1000, we weighed. Wind ESE2/3, cool, cloud with bright areas.
1115. Out of Loch Torridon. Turned S and so did the wind - before it died. Nice enough otherwise. Still motoring.
1245. Close by Range buoy B
1300. Sailing. Wind NW2-3.
1500. Between Eilean Mor and Loch Toscaig, sailing and trying to catch 43ft ‘Sandpiper’. Didn’t quite.1645. Wind died. Engine on.
1630. Took a VM at Plockton.
Fri 20 Jul – Plockton to Sandaig
1000. Slipped. Wind had been NE 3-4 now became E1. Motored S to Kyle of Loch Alsh calling to look at an anchorage en route.
Made a mega cock-up at the Loch Alsh jetty! Then took on water and supplies (from Coop) and Ann reported her BMI card lost.
1345. Slipped but then stopped for lunch in mid-loch. Sunny and moderately warm.
Motored on and drifted down Kyle Rhea and the Sound of Sleat in the hoot sunshine looking for otters. Went close along the E shore of the Sound and then anchored n Sandaig. Very warm. Four other boats.
Sat 21 Jul – Sandaig to Eigg
A startling display all around the bay by 5 or 6 bottle nose dolphins for about 90 minutes. Took many pics.
1045. Weighed. Nice sail (all sails) with wind E3 until 1320 when the wind died. Motored on from 4M N of Mallaig. Fair.
1445. Wind died, engine on.
1620. Anchored in Eigg – Poll Nam Partan.
Walked ashore to visit caves and then had squat lobsters in the old jetty café. Excellent. I fetched the laptop and updated the ICC website.
Sun 22 Jul – Eigg to Muck
Woke at 0900
1030. Weighed. No wind, no waves, n swell. Fair but no sun
Went down through the jetty aea and then by the sea caves.
Sail / Motored to Muck
1215. Anchored witth some difficulty at Port Mor in Muck. Sun.
We went ashore and walked across the island on the road to Gallanach Bay. We met Lawrence the laird and his daughter in law Ruth (Broken ankle). She suggested that we walk back to the harbour over the fields which we did but Ann got tired. I went on to collect the RIB and went to collect her from the shore. A bit scary as I couldn't find her. She had walked back!
Late lunch in restaurant (Jenny the laird's wife) and idle remainder of the day on board.
Mon 23 Jul – Muck to Iona (Bull Hole)
1015. Weighed. Fair, wind W2. The wind rose and fell and we went south to Coll. All sails set but engine too most of the time. Weather became misty and damp.
1200. Abeam N end of Coll.
1330. Took a VM at Arinagour, Coll. Weather improving.
1500. Slipped under sail. Wind NNW2, fair.
Tried to sail the slight wind was dead astern and then died. Sunny but frustrating.
Went through the Trishnish Islands N of Lunga.
Had a good sail S to Iona.
1830. Anchored in Bull Hole opposite Iona.
Tue 24 Jul – Iona to Ardfern anchorage
0900. Weigthed. NE2 Yankee.
1130 Sailing. Wind NE4. Lovely
1230 Engine.
1330 Sailing again. SW4
1420. Off Dun Chonmill
Through the Sound of Luish and met up with Ariadne (Alan Leonard) and took pics of each other. They went on to Crinan. We turned into Loch and anchored in the bay near Ardfern.
Wed 25 Jul – Ardfern to Gigha
Horrid wet windy morning. As we had breakfast it improved and we slipped at 0930. (Very good muddy anchorage)
Now fair with SW3-4 (OTN)
1000 Off Crinan Bay. Waves rough.
1030. Abeam Ruadh Sgeir LH
1100. Abeam Corsaig I (opp Tayvallich). Now sunny with low cloud over the islandas. Wind SW3. Waves slight.
1220. Inside the MacCormaig I. Fair. SE3
1420. Abeam N end of Gigha. Weather glooming down. S3-4 and grey
Following a fearsome squall as we approached we took a VM in Ardminish Bay at 1500 in lovely weather!
There were thundery and heavy squalls all evening with some strong S wind.
Thu 26 Jul – Gigha to Bangor
Sunny intervals with cloud and SW4
0920. Slipped. Main + 1 reef. Lumpy sea at first but then better.
1215. 9M N of Mull of Kintyre. Nearly calm making 5½ kts but squalls ahead.
Ran close along the Antrim coast with cloud coming of it as though it was volcanic. Rainbows and sunny patches. Beautiful.
1950. Moored in Bangor.
