2009 - Ireland to the Azores, and back
This log won the Workman Cup from the RNIYC
In essence our 2009 summer was to take the form of a voyage to the Azores from Northern Ireland, take part in a two-week joint RCC/ICC Meet, another three weeks cruising the Azores alone, and then a voyage home. Nine weeks all told. And so it was.
Ann, my wife and I, own a Bowman 40, Faustina II. We’ve had her for 11 years and she looks after us very well. Every year we have gone cruising for at least two months (and rather more when we did the Atlantic circuit in 2000/02). The Azores Meet gave us the excuse to return to those beautiful islands that we had seen on our return from the Bahamas in 2002. Anyone with a cruising boat who has not been there should make plans to do so. A friend told me that she thought that they were rocks in the middle of the Atlantic. She was wrong. They are lush, fertile islands with somewhat varying climatic conditions on all of the nine islands which are spread across 400 miles of the ocean. It may or may not be an attraction to say that each of the bigger islands now has one or more superb marinas. The bureaucracy which used to be tedious in the extreme is now, whilst still prolonged, much less intense and carried out by the most charming and helpful officials that one could imagine. It was almost a pleasure to book in and out!
The voyage to the Azores
We left Strangford Lough on 27 June 2009. ‘We’ was Ann and myself, Peter R and two friends, Lawrence and Bruce. Peter crossed the Atlantic with us in 2000 and the other two have accompanied me on several off-shore voyages. With stops at Howth and Kilmore Quay, we reached Kinsale on the south coast of Ireland three fine sailing days later. Kinsale was chosen as our jumping off point as there is fuel, good shopping and well sheltered. It’s also a great place!
We departed from there on 1 July and arrived at Ponta Delgada on São Miguel 12 days later – a long period for an 1150 mile voyage. The fact is that the voyage was not a lot of fun – in fact it was what I call ‘character forming’ (though in my case it’s probably too late for that.)
The voyage started easy enough with two days of little or no wind. However by 0300 on 3 Jul we were bashing into a SW5 with lightning and heavy rain. We heaved-to for lunch – and then again overnight from 1500 until 1000 the next day. It was wild and unpleasant. We were not in a hurry and the peace and quiet provided by heaving-to seemed an excellent option. On 4 Jul we bashed on into a strong SW wind, well off course, and at 2000, we heaved-to again. We tried to sail on at midnight but it was so bumpy and noisy, and we were making only 3 kts to SE, that we stopped again. During Sunday 5 July the wind rose to SW8 with rain squalls but later it eased to W6 and we were able to sail our desired course. By midnight the wind was WNW5. All morning on 6 July we were slamming hard into big seas under overcast skies but by midday the wind went to NW5 and then to 3, and all the reefs came out as the seas became less aggressive. On 7 July we made nice progress with a NW2-3. Ann made bread and we spotted a whale spouting a mile away. That evening the wind died away – and we were half-way to the Azores.
The sea was oily calm on 8 July. The 19-year old B&G auto steering had failed and we were being steered by a Raytheon 2000+ linked to the Aries – but later that day the Raytheon failed as well with interesting noises coming from its innards. However a SW2-3 wind came up and we were able to sail on using the trusty Aries. 9 July began well but by 0800 we were again headed by a SW3 and then WSW4. By 1500 the wind was S6 and we were again sailing well off-course. We heaved-to again for a restful supper, but then slogged on, some 20° off our desired course. By next morning that had become a depressing 40° - and we also had thick fog with drizzle. (You had to keep saying, ‘we are doing this for fun’!) That all cleared by midday, we had some sun, and the wind backed a little to improve the course. And then during the afternoon it again became overcast and once again the wind went to S6 and we were heading 270° (against our desired course of 215°). For some reason we tacked to head east rather than west, and then heaved-to for supper. We saw a ship and Peter called her for a forecast. We were promised northerly winds! ‘Maybe’, I thought, ‘and cows might fly’. During the evening the wind went to SW6 and we banged along through it.
Ann, my wife and I, own a Bowman 40, Faustina II. We’ve had her for 11 years and she looks after us very well. Every year we have gone cruising for at least two months (and rather more when we did the Atlantic circuit in 2000/02). The Azores Meet gave us the excuse to return to those beautiful islands that we had seen on our return from the Bahamas in 2002. Anyone with a cruising boat who has not been there should make plans to do so. A friend told me that she thought that they were rocks in the middle of the Atlantic. She was wrong. They are lush, fertile islands with somewhat varying climatic conditions on all of the nine islands which are spread across 400 miles of the ocean. It may or may not be an attraction to say that each of the bigger islands now has one or more superb marinas. The bureaucracy which used to be tedious in the extreme is now, whilst still prolonged, much less intense and carried out by the most charming and helpful officials that one could imagine. It was almost a pleasure to book in and out!
The voyage to the Azores
We left Strangford Lough on 27 June 2009. ‘We’ was Ann and myself, Peter R and two friends, Lawrence and Bruce. Peter crossed the Atlantic with us in 2000 and the other two have accompanied me on several off-shore voyages. With stops at Howth and Kilmore Quay, we reached Kinsale on the south coast of Ireland three fine sailing days later. Kinsale was chosen as our jumping off point as there is fuel, good shopping and well sheltered. It’s also a great place!
We departed from there on 1 July and arrived at Ponta Delgada on São Miguel 12 days later – a long period for an 1150 mile voyage. The fact is that the voyage was not a lot of fun – in fact it was what I call ‘character forming’ (though in my case it’s probably too late for that.)
The voyage started easy enough with two days of little or no wind. However by 0300 on 3 Jul we were bashing into a SW5 with lightning and heavy rain. We heaved-to for lunch – and then again overnight from 1500 until 1000 the next day. It was wild and unpleasant. We were not in a hurry and the peace and quiet provided by heaving-to seemed an excellent option. On 4 Jul we bashed on into a strong SW wind, well off course, and at 2000, we heaved-to again. We tried to sail on at midnight but it was so bumpy and noisy, and we were making only 3 kts to SE, that we stopped again. During Sunday 5 July the wind rose to SW8 with rain squalls but later it eased to W6 and we were able to sail our desired course. By midnight the wind was WNW5. All morning on 6 July we were slamming hard into big seas under overcast skies but by midday the wind went to NW5 and then to 3, and all the reefs came out as the seas became less aggressive. On 7 July we made nice progress with a NW2-3. Ann made bread and we spotted a whale spouting a mile away. That evening the wind died away – and we were half-way to the Azores.
The sea was oily calm on 8 July. The 19-year old B&G auto steering had failed and we were being steered by a Raytheon 2000+ linked to the Aries – but later that day the Raytheon failed as well with interesting noises coming from its innards. However a SW2-3 wind came up and we were able to sail on using the trusty Aries. 9 July began well but by 0800 we were again headed by a SW3 and then WSW4. By 1500 the wind was S6 and we were again sailing well off-course. We heaved-to again for a restful supper, but then slogged on, some 20° off our desired course. By next morning that had become a depressing 40° - and we also had thick fog with drizzle. (You had to keep saying, ‘we are doing this for fun’!) That all cleared by midday, we had some sun, and the wind backed a little to improve the course. And then during the afternoon it again became overcast and once again the wind went to S6 and we were heading 270° (against our desired course of 215°). For some reason we tacked to head east rather than west, and then heaved-to for supper. We saw a ship and Peter called her for a forecast. We were promised northerly winds! ‘Maybe’, I thought, ‘and cows might fly’. During the evening the wind went to SW6 and we banged along through it.
At 0200 on 11 July (my birthday) I came on watch, the wind had strengthened, and shortly afterwards Peter appeared in the companionway and suggested that we might heave-to as it was very noisy below. I was happy to oblige! At 0845 when I came on again everything had changed. The wind, though still strong, had backed some 60°, and the sun began to appear. We had a great day’s sailing and celebrated my anniversary with TWO bottles of wine for lunch. The weather was now also distinctly warmer. On Sunday 12 July, with the Raytheon fixed to steer us through a nearly windless day, we saw the islands of São Miguel appear some 40 miles off, rounded its west end at 1700 and a couple of hours later we were alongside in Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores.
It had been a hard trip and not always enjoyable. The beating to windward had added about 200nm to our track. However the ploy of heaving-to, to give us some relief and rest, had made it manageable and had enabled us to get through the rougher periods in good order. The boat had held up well though the old B&G was definitely showing its age. The fault in the Raytheon was that the motor had become loose – something easily enough fixed but unforgivable that it should have happened in a year-old machine. Later one of the belts broke.
We explore Sao Miguel
We had a few days before the combined RCC/ICC Meet began on 17 Jul, and we used this time to catch up on our sleep, replenish the boat, meet old friends from both the RCC and the ICC and to make new ones as boats from both clubs began to arrive. Ann and I hired a car and spent an amazing day exploring the beautiful volcanic western end of the island. These islands are simply stunning in their diversity of terrain, the colours, the views, the villages – and the very friendly Portuguese speaking population. Peter’s wife, Evie, joined ship and Lawrence and Bruce flew home after the first day of the Meet having enjoyed the evenings impromptu dinner.
The RCC/ICC Meet
The opening event on Friday 17 July, organised by Paul Heiney on behalf of the RCC, was a drinks reception given by the Azores Port Authority at a café in the marina. There was a generous flow of local wines and a buffet was provided as well. During this a group of musicians and dancers gave us a fine performance of traditional local dancing which was enjoyed by not only us but by many members of the public as well.
That was the extent of the official events that day but Peter and Evie Ronaldson had arranged to book 80 places in the 'hot lava' restaurant in the hope that they would be filled. Evie speaks Portuguese and this skill was immensely useful to us all over the next two weeks. In fact about 100 turned up for the meal – mostly ICC – and a good noisy meal was taken with the usual singing and good craic. All restaurants in the Azores have large flat screen TVs on each wall but in this restaurant that night they were turned off as totally surplus to entertainment requirements!
That was the extent of the official events that day but Peter and Evie Ronaldson had arranged to book 80 places in the 'hot lava' restaurant in the hope that they would be filled. Evie speaks Portuguese and this skill was immensely useful to us all over the next two weeks. In fact about 100 turned up for the meal – mostly ICC – and a good noisy meal was taken with the usual singing and good craic. All restaurants in the Azores have large flat screen TVs on each wall but in this restaurant that night they were turned off as totally surplus to entertainment requirements!
We explore the east end of Sao Miguel
Next day we boarded coaches and were taken on a tour of the eastern end of the island of San Miguel. We went east along the south coast , firstly to see from the shore, the Ilhea da Vila – the island with a hole in the middle. It's like an old volcano summit with a hole in one wall that permits swimmers and dinghies to gain entry from the sea. It's a very popular swimming venue. We then headed inland to where the hot steam from fumeroles was used to cook food. We were then left to our own devices to find a restaurant for lunch! Somehow everyone was gathered together again and we were taken to a garden created by a former US ambassador which had a lake into which pure-looking water from natural sources arrived only for it to quickly oxidise and turn rust coloured. One can swim in it but happily we didn't have time to convert our skins to a rusty hue. This was followed by a long wait for the coaches which were prevented from reaching us by narrow streets and some wicked parking.
We went to a restaurant on the north coast
We boarded coaches again that evening and were taken to the north coast – a run of 45 minutes – where were we given a 'typical Azorean food and wine'. This was not outstanding and really didn't justify the total of 1½ hours in the coaches to get to it. A rather disappointing evening.
We were all especially pleased to see Anne K at the opening event. Together with Paddy O’S, she had chartered a yacht in Portugal and with a paid crew had sailed over to San Miguel. We were all envious of her crew, particularly Pedro who for €50 a day did all the cooking and cleaned the boat from top to bottom everyday - whatever the weather. Every boat should have a Pedro! He seemed cheap at the price. Anne and Paddy had to sail back to Portugal the next day.
We were all especially pleased to see Anne K at the opening event. Together with Paddy O’S, she had chartered a yacht in Portugal and with a paid crew had sailed over to San Miguel. We were all envious of her crew, particularly Pedro who for €50 a day did all the cooking and cleaned the boat from top to bottom everyday - whatever the weather. Every boat should have a Pedro! He seemed cheap at the price. Anne and Paddy had to sail back to Portugal the next day.
The fleet moved to Santa Maria
Next day the fleet moved on southward to the island of Santa Maria but not before Peter R had had his elbow dressed in the local hospital. Our Commodore had developed a badly infected bursa on his elbow which required daily treatment throughout the Rally – which was provided efficiently wherever we went through the islands.
We went to Sta Maria by first going east along the coast of San Miguel until we reached Ilhea de Vila . We had seen this island just off shore during our bus trip the previous day (see the photo above). It has the shape of a Polo mint with a small gap that allows entry to the inner pool by dinghy. We anchored off and rowed into the island's central pool which a great tourist trap - and rightly so as it is attractive and the waters are great for a swim. That done we set off south to Santa Maria.
Sta. Maria had asked us to come as they wanted to show off their new marina and facilities for yachtsmen at Vila do Porto. Everyone of those involved with hosting us there was kindest itself. The berthing was free and the marina seemed fairly proof from the Atlantic swell (which certainly had not been true of the big marina at Ponta Delgada where the boats were rocked violently by the swell.) A young policemen came to the marina and with great charm and politeness carried out the necessary paperwork. Some years ago the entry and departure formalities for Portugal were time consuming and tedious. The controls still exist but now all officials smile and make very light work of it all. It is usually a pleasure to deal with them – even if perhaps one would prefer just to be allowed to come and go freely.
We went to Sta Maria by first going east along the coast of San Miguel until we reached Ilhea de Vila . We had seen this island just off shore during our bus trip the previous day (see the photo above). It has the shape of a Polo mint with a small gap that allows entry to the inner pool by dinghy. We anchored off and rowed into the island's central pool which a great tourist trap - and rightly so as it is attractive and the waters are great for a swim. That done we set off south to Santa Maria.
Sta. Maria had asked us to come as they wanted to show off their new marina and facilities for yachtsmen at Vila do Porto. Everyone of those involved with hosting us there was kindest itself. The berthing was free and the marina seemed fairly proof from the Atlantic swell (which certainly had not been true of the big marina at Ponta Delgada where the boats were rocked violently by the swell.) A young policemen came to the marina and with great charm and politeness carried out the necessary paperwork. Some years ago the entry and departure formalities for Portugal were time consuming and tedious. The controls still exist but now all officials smile and make very light work of it all. It is usually a pleasure to deal with them – even if perhaps one would prefer just to be allowed to come and go freely.
Santa Maria
Quite a few yachts had arrived by Mon 20 July and some crews bravely climbed the very steep and twisting road to the town to shop and eat and drink.
The formal events started at midday on Tue 21 July when we congregated at the Club Navale by the marina. Armed with drinks and arrayed along the balcony of the Club we watched an amazing and outstanding display of drumming put on by about 30 members of the local Scouts. Most of the 'Scouts' were long haired girls – and both boys and girls were dressed in white. They didn't just drum; they also moved and swayed to the rhythms – and the effect was thrilling and mesmerising. They drummed for about 45 minutes to great applause. Many members considered this to be the highlight of the Rally!!
The formal events started at midday on Tue 21 July when we congregated at the Club Navale by the marina. Armed with drinks and arrayed along the balcony of the Club we watched an amazing and outstanding display of drumming put on by about 30 members of the local Scouts. Most of the 'Scouts' were long haired girls – and both boys and girls were dressed in white. They didn't just drum; they also moved and swayed to the rhythms – and the effect was thrilling and mesmerising. They drummed for about 45 minutes to great applause. Many members considered this to be the highlight of the Rally!!
That was followed by an excellent buffet lunch provided free of charge by the Club members and that was accompanied by a group of musicians who played traditional songs for us. They cleverly coupled it with a display of traditional costumes paraded for us by about 10 couples all in different outfits. It was very good. Members were encouraged to dance with the 'models' once the show was over. Today was our Commodore's birthday and that event was suitably noted and celebrated!
Next day, after a short delay whilst more coaches were brought in the cater for us all, we set off for a tour of the island. It has fewer hydrangeas than most of the other islands but it is beautiful and interesting. At one stop at San Lorenço several members went swimming in the sea and many later clambered to look at a waterfall that sadly was little more than a dribble. Later we visited the statue to Columbus who was wrecked on this island in 1493, and we passed the large aerodrome built in the early days of flying to provide facilities for trans-Atlantic planes to refuel. We were back at the Club Navale by lunchtime where another spread had been prepared for us – this time at a very modest charge of €10.
There was now to be a pause in the official functions until the ICC sponsored events at Angra do Heroismo on the island of Terceira on 29 July. The fleet therefore dispersed to explore the islands as they wished. Horta on the island of Faial in the middle group of islands is the harbour best known to yachtsmen and many of the fleet boats headed there. The skippers will tell their own stories of these days in their own logs.
The weather on Tue 28 Jul was awful but happily it cleared by the evening when our Commodore and Evie hosted a party on the yachts Island Life (Cormac McH) and Faustina II to which all crews were invited. Most of them had arrived by the evening and so the two yachts and the adjacent pontoon were soon well down on their marks. Bucks Fizz and small eats went down well and the noise level was again high. Members of both clubs then adjourned to a nearby hotel for dinner.
Also invited to the Commodore’s party were Carla C and her husband and baby son. Carla works for the Azores Port Authority and was our local liaison officer. She was present at all the events on each island and combined charm with great efficiency. Her work did much to ensure that the rally was a success.
At 1800 on Wed the marina gave a Reception for us and the participants of the Atlantis Cup race – a island to island race – who happened to be in Angra that evening. We then moved (without the racers) to a marina-side restaurant where we had the pleasure of listening to a group playing and singing local music. This was a well known group who had chosen to play for us rather than at a more prestigious event elsewhere that night. Several of the guitarists played 15-string instruments and made it look easy. The singers were outstanding and memorable. Carla translated some of the words for us. They played and sang for an hour – and we enjoyed it immensely.
That concert over, we entered the restaurant where a fine spread had been prepared for us. It was all locally produced food and cooked traditionally and the wine, which was supplied liberally, was all local – and the assembled sailors ate and drank heartily. There were thank-you speeches from our Commodore, from Mike G representing the RCC Commodore, and from Carlos *****, the president of the Azores Harbour Authority, who had showed himself to be a cheerful, generous and helpful friend to us throughout the rally.
And that was it. Next day, early, the first of the fleet to make their way to their bases, some in Ireland, some in England and others in Portugal. The rally was undoubtedly a success. It had encouraged over 20 boats to make the long passage to the Azores, it had brought together members of two major cruising clubs and established links between them that will surely last. All concerned are grateful to Paul H (for the RCC) and David W (for the ICC) for their work in setting up the event, and to the authorities in the Azores for helping to make our visit to their truly beautiful and interesting islands as memorable as it undoubtedly was.
Next day, after a short delay whilst more coaches were brought in the cater for us all, we set off for a tour of the island. It has fewer hydrangeas than most of the other islands but it is beautiful and interesting. At one stop at San Lorenço several members went swimming in the sea and many later clambered to look at a waterfall that sadly was little more than a dribble. Later we visited the statue to Columbus who was wrecked on this island in 1493, and we passed the large aerodrome built in the early days of flying to provide facilities for trans-Atlantic planes to refuel. We were back at the Club Navale by lunchtime where another spread had been prepared for us – this time at a very modest charge of €10.
There was now to be a pause in the official functions until the ICC sponsored events at Angra do Heroismo on the island of Terceira on 29 July. The fleet therefore dispersed to explore the islands as they wished. Horta on the island of Faial in the middle group of islands is the harbour best known to yachtsmen and many of the fleet boats headed there. The skippers will tell their own stories of these days in their own logs.
The weather on Tue 28 Jul was awful but happily it cleared by the evening when our Commodore and Evie hosted a party on the yachts Island Life (Cormac McH) and Faustina II to which all crews were invited. Most of them had arrived by the evening and so the two yachts and the adjacent pontoon were soon well down on their marks. Bucks Fizz and small eats went down well and the noise level was again high. Members of both clubs then adjourned to a nearby hotel for dinner.
Also invited to the Commodore’s party were Carla C and her husband and baby son. Carla works for the Azores Port Authority and was our local liaison officer. She was present at all the events on each island and combined charm with great efficiency. Her work did much to ensure that the rally was a success.
At 1800 on Wed the marina gave a Reception for us and the participants of the Atlantis Cup race – a island to island race – who happened to be in Angra that evening. We then moved (without the racers) to a marina-side restaurant where we had the pleasure of listening to a group playing and singing local music. This was a well known group who had chosen to play for us rather than at a more prestigious event elsewhere that night. Several of the guitarists played 15-string instruments and made it look easy. The singers were outstanding and memorable. Carla translated some of the words for us. They played and sang for an hour – and we enjoyed it immensely.
That concert over, we entered the restaurant where a fine spread had been prepared for us. It was all locally produced food and cooked traditionally and the wine, which was supplied liberally, was all local – and the assembled sailors ate and drank heartily. There were thank-you speeches from our Commodore, from Mike G representing the RCC Commodore, and from Carlos *****, the president of the Azores Harbour Authority, who had showed himself to be a cheerful, generous and helpful friend to us throughout the rally.
And that was it. Next day, early, the first of the fleet to make their way to their bases, some in Ireland, some in England and others in Portugal. The rally was undoubtedly a success. It had encouraged over 20 boats to make the long passage to the Azores, it had brought together members of two major cruising clubs and established links between them that will surely last. All concerned are grateful to Paul H (for the RCC) and David W (for the ICC) for their work in setting up the event, and to the authorities in the Azores for helping to make our visit to their truly beautiful and interesting islands as memorable as it undoubtedly was.
From Santa Maria we took Faustina II to Horta as there were a few days ‘at leisure’ before the closing events on the island of Terceira. Horta, well known to so many trans-Atlantic sailors, has lost little of its special ‘feel’ – it is still full of experienced sailors, swapping stories, getting equipment fixed and making an obligatory visit to Peter’s Cafe, a venue now heavily commercialised and not so special as of old. We touched up Faustina II’s wall painting from 2002, and added ‘2009’. The views of Pico across the water still thrill.
The Meet ended at Angra do Heroismo on Terceira with yet another well attended boat party and the final dinner. Thereafter boats began to disperse to UK, Ireland and to Portugal. Peter and Evie left Faustina to go on another yacht to Ponta Delgada and to fly home. Ann and I were now on our own on board. We hired a car to look at the harbour at Praia da Vitória on the east coast of Terceira but it was a fiercely wet day and our long lunch was the highlight of the visit. We also climbed the great Spanish built fortress of Monte do Brasil that is the dominant feature of Angra. With friends from another boat we went to watch, and nearly participated in, some bull running in the town nearby. It’s an interesting spectacle but not, we assessed, very dangerous. The bull stays attached to a long rope.
Cruising the islands alone
Soon Faustina was nearly on her own in Angra and on Sunday 2 August we motor-sailed north west to Vila da Praia on the island of Graciosa. We met up with Roddy I (RCC) and his latest crew on Jessamy. We had already had some good evenings with them and they again didn’t disappoint. Ann and I spent two days on the island of Graciosa exploring its delights – these are the nice little town of Santa Cruz and a large extinct volcano crater into which one can descend quite a long way. The appalling bus service seems designed to force visitors to use taxis to travel anywhere. The marina is now just about finished and is a safe refuge.
Cruising the islands alone
Soon Faustina was nearly on her own in Angra and on Sunday 2 August we motor-sailed north west to Vila da Praia on the island of Graciosa. We met up with Roddy I (RCC) and his latest crew on Jessamy. We had already had some good evenings with them and they again didn’t disappoint. Ann and I spent two days on the island of Graciosa exploring its delights – these are the nice little town of Santa Cruz and a large extinct volcano crater into which one can descend quite a long way. The appalling bus service seems designed to force visitors to use taxis to travel anywhere. The marina is now just about finished and is a safe refuge.
From Graciosa we headed south past the west end of the island of São Jorge back to Horta on Faial. Ponta Delgada may be the biggest and most sophisticated place in the Azores and São Miguel may arguably be the most attractive island, but we love Horta with its yachtie ‘buzz’. I wanted to get the B&G fixed but not surprisingly that wasn’t possible. A friendly yachtsman came aboard and spent many hours making our SSB work better and setting it up to receive GRIBs. Ashore a big festa (Festival of the Sea) was in progress and the front was lined with tents with food outlets and stages. That all came to life in the evening and the noise level stayed high until the early hours. There were some wonderful shows to be seen, particularly the local singing and dancing groups that performed before the rock bands took over! One day we went for a long walk which was designated as ‘easy’ but which gave our legs and lungs a good work out.
On Sunday 9 August we moved to Lajes on the south coast of the island of Pico. Until recently this harbour was small and approached through a maze of rocks. Now a mole has been built to cleverly outflank the rocks to allow a safe passage inside it to the new marina. There are only four or five moorings available for visiting yachts but it is now easy to approach and safe. Here again we took notes and photos for Anne Hammick’s ‘Atlantic Pilot’. Lajes is the centre of the best whale watching in the Azores – so from here we went out with the professionals and during a three hour trip saw over 20 whales of various types. From here too we hired a taxi to do a partial circuit of the island, including Madalena which faces Faial on the west coast under the 2351m high slopes of Pico. There are some amazing lava formations on the north coast and in a couple of places these have been sympathetically adapted to provide superb bathing facilities.
We returned to Ponta Delgada on São Miguel on 12 August for a few days before Ann flew home. I had a few days on my own and used part of one of them to take a taxi to Vila Franca check on the progress of the new marina there. Again I took notes and photos for Anne Hammick and later sent those off to her on a CD. Incidentally the marina is now completed and provides good berthing for several visiting yachts in its expanded facilities.
The voyage home
My crew home, Alan B (ICC/RNIYC), an experienced sailor and former boat owner, flew in on 18 August and after a quick visit to a supermarket to buy the things he wanted to eat, we went to book out. Sadly, as we approached the dock, the prop shaft came loose in its fitting and the prop didn’t go into reverse. We went head to head against an American boat causing us both slight but annoying pulpit damage. Several hours passed as we completed the insurance paperwork but by the evening I had secured the shaft and, parting from our victim on friendly terms, we set off for Ireland.
The first day out was uncomfortable – the sort of day which removes your appetite. We gave supper a miss that night. The wind was westerly and fresh enough to require three reefs in the main overnight. However the next day the wind reduced to NW3 and we had a fine sail. Alan specialises in stews and he made a good one that evening. We had no wind on 20 August and we motored all day under clear skies. Food and a leaking gearbox became the centre of our interests. We enjoyed our food but the gearbox seemed to be blowing ATF from the filler vent rather than through a seal. I kept topping it up and it got us home without breaking. Next day the wind got behind us, rather too much so to be ideal. That evening Alan woke me as he thought we might be on a collision course with a steamer but it passed clear well ahead. On 22 August we were on a dead run and I poled out the Yankee which took us along in fine form. The wind rose a little, I reefed the Main a bit and we had a great day’s sailing with the Aries performing well, even though we were going downwind.
A cold front went through at 0300 on Sunday 23 August and the wind veered 90°, settling during the morning to NW3-4 and later NW5-6. There was a thin crescent moon; it was a bit bouncy; we were going well. Next day the wind became more fluky and there was a lot of sail changing, most of which I did while Alan kept me well fed. I got very tired that day especially when I found a battery box full of water with a corroded terminal which had to be cleaned and repaired. Alan kindly gave me a couple of extra hours off watch which, together with a hot shower, restored my old bones, which was just as well as we were making up to 8kts with a NW6-7 with the Aries in charge. The wind backed at midnight and reduced so that at 0600 I was able to pole out the Yankee and let two reefs out of the Main. It was a fine day and our noon-to-noon run was 155nm. By 2100 we had a full gale from the SE. We were both tired so we decided to heave-to for the night. I was seasick!
I awoke at dawn feeling much improved. I set the Yankee to pull us along in a confused sea and kept it up as the wind increased to NW5. Later I added a three-reefed Main. At around midnight, with the wind dropping again, we passed the Cork oilfield under a clear starry night. The wind and seas became confused and it was difficult to set sails for the conditions. There was not enough wind for the Aries and the Raytheon was again playing up. However it was not unpleasant to steer for the last few hours before we entered Kilmore Quay on Ireland’s SE corner. We were glad to be in as a gale was forecast and indeed raged while we had a pub meal up the road.
The wind was still fresh next morning. I delayed our planned 0530 departure as Alan had a painful knee. However that improved and the wind lessened so we slipped at 0900 and carried the tide swiftly around Carnsore Point and on up the east coast of Ireland. We stayed inshore until just north of Dublin when we cut across to St John’s Point and entered Strangford Lough at 1030 on 29 August, just 25½ hours after leaving Kilmore Quay.
Nine weeks away was a long haul, but it had been varied and interesting. Ann and I had met many new people at the Meet and lots of old friends too. We had enjoyed nearly all of it. However let me record here that it was probably my last ocean passage. The waters of the Scottish west coast and perhaps the south of England are calling loudly.....
My crew home, Alan B (ICC/RNIYC), an experienced sailor and former boat owner, flew in on 18 August and after a quick visit to a supermarket to buy the things he wanted to eat, we went to book out. Sadly, as we approached the dock, the prop shaft came loose in its fitting and the prop didn’t go into reverse. We went head to head against an American boat causing us both slight but annoying pulpit damage. Several hours passed as we completed the insurance paperwork but by the evening I had secured the shaft and, parting from our victim on friendly terms, we set off for Ireland.
The first day out was uncomfortable – the sort of day which removes your appetite. We gave supper a miss that night. The wind was westerly and fresh enough to require three reefs in the main overnight. However the next day the wind reduced to NW3 and we had a fine sail. Alan specialises in stews and he made a good one that evening. We had no wind on 20 August and we motored all day under clear skies. Food and a leaking gearbox became the centre of our interests. We enjoyed our food but the gearbox seemed to be blowing ATF from the filler vent rather than through a seal. I kept topping it up and it got us home without breaking. Next day the wind got behind us, rather too much so to be ideal. That evening Alan woke me as he thought we might be on a collision course with a steamer but it passed clear well ahead. On 22 August we were on a dead run and I poled out the Yankee which took us along in fine form. The wind rose a little, I reefed the Main a bit and we had a great day’s sailing with the Aries performing well, even though we were going downwind.
A cold front went through at 0300 on Sunday 23 August and the wind veered 90°, settling during the morning to NW3-4 and later NW5-6. There was a thin crescent moon; it was a bit bouncy; we were going well. Next day the wind became more fluky and there was a lot of sail changing, most of which I did while Alan kept me well fed. I got very tired that day especially when I found a battery box full of water with a corroded terminal which had to be cleaned and repaired. Alan kindly gave me a couple of extra hours off watch which, together with a hot shower, restored my old bones, which was just as well as we were making up to 8kts with a NW6-7 with the Aries in charge. The wind backed at midnight and reduced so that at 0600 I was able to pole out the Yankee and let two reefs out of the Main. It was a fine day and our noon-to-noon run was 155nm. By 2100 we had a full gale from the SE. We were both tired so we decided to heave-to for the night. I was seasick!
I awoke at dawn feeling much improved. I set the Yankee to pull us along in a confused sea and kept it up as the wind increased to NW5. Later I added a three-reefed Main. At around midnight, with the wind dropping again, we passed the Cork oilfield under a clear starry night. The wind and seas became confused and it was difficult to set sails for the conditions. There was not enough wind for the Aries and the Raytheon was again playing up. However it was not unpleasant to steer for the last few hours before we entered Kilmore Quay on Ireland’s SE corner. We were glad to be in as a gale was forecast and indeed raged while we had a pub meal up the road.
The wind was still fresh next morning. I delayed our planned 0530 departure as Alan had a painful knee. However that improved and the wind lessened so we slipped at 0900 and carried the tide swiftly around Carnsore Point and on up the east coast of Ireland. We stayed inshore until just north of Dublin when we cut across to St John’s Point and entered Strangford Lough at 1030 on 29 August, just 25½ hours after leaving Kilmore Quay.
Nine weeks away was a long haul, but it had been varied and interesting. Ann and I had met many new people at the Meet and lots of old friends too. We had enjoyed nearly all of it. However let me record here that it was probably my last ocean passage. The waters of the Scottish west coast and perhaps the south of England are calling loudly.....