2010 - Faustina II in Scotland
To be absolutely honest the idea of cruising the Western Isles in company with nearly 200 other yachts didn’t fill me with joy. But that was in store as we headed north to join the Clyde Cruising Club’s Centenary Cruise (CCC CC). Let’s face it, the real pleasure of cruising in those parts is the ability to get away from others in quiet anchorages. Nevertheless we were committed and would just have to make the best of it. But let it be said that the Cruise actually turned out to be great fun and the presence of so many boats never became a problem. This is our story of the Centenary Cruise and of our subsequent few weeks cruising alone.
We left Portaferry on 5 July and Bangor on 6 July and headed for Sanda Island off the end of the Mull of Kintyre where we anchored off the, sadly, now deserted pub. We were there in the late morning and as we rested during the afternoon the wind gradually increased in velocity from the southeast. Faustina II (our Bowman 40) began yawing quite violently as the wind swirled over the island. I let out 30m of chain (in only 4m of water) but by 19.30 I decided that, whilst we were probably safe enough, we would never have a restful night in such conditions. We weighed and head for Campbeltown, chased by a wind that had risen to force 7 going on 8. A reefed Yankee was all we needed for full speed! In the gathering gloom we were safely alongside at 22.00 and pleased to be lying quietly there.
After a day in Campbeltown walking and resting we went on north to Lochranza at the north end of Arran where we found a row of 10 Visitors’ Moorings. The attractive looking castle at the head of the bay was visited (paying our mooring dues in the box at the landing en route) and it was decided, after taking tea in the hotel, that we would not like to take dinner there. The following morning we went on to the Kyles of Bute and anchored in Wreck Bay. We had intended to stay in the beautiful Caladh Harbour but the anchor wouldn't hold. In fact the evening was so lovely that we were pleased to be where we were with a much wider panoramic view.
We left Portaferry on 5 July and Bangor on 6 July and headed for Sanda Island off the end of the Mull of Kintyre where we anchored off the, sadly, now deserted pub. We were there in the late morning and as we rested during the afternoon the wind gradually increased in velocity from the southeast. Faustina II (our Bowman 40) began yawing quite violently as the wind swirled over the island. I let out 30m of chain (in only 4m of water) but by 19.30 I decided that, whilst we were probably safe enough, we would never have a restful night in such conditions. We weighed and head for Campbeltown, chased by a wind that had risen to force 7 going on 8. A reefed Yankee was all we needed for full speed! In the gathering gloom we were safely alongside at 22.00 and pleased to be lying quietly there.
After a day in Campbeltown walking and resting we went on north to Lochranza at the north end of Arran where we found a row of 10 Visitors’ Moorings. The attractive looking castle at the head of the bay was visited (paying our mooring dues in the box at the landing en route) and it was decided, after taking tea in the hotel, that we would not like to take dinner there. The following morning we went on to the Kyles of Bute and anchored in Wreck Bay. We had intended to stay in the beautiful Caladh Harbour but the anchor wouldn't hold. In fact the evening was so lovely that we were pleased to be where we were with a much wider panoramic view.
Faustina II's track in Scotland 2010
 John looking at the damaged hull at Cairnbaan on the Crinan Canal  Old Puffers in the Sea Basin at Crinan  F2 (the inside yacht) in the Sea Basin at Crinan |
A baby is born!
On our way to Rothesay next day we got the news of the safe arrival of my latest granddaughter, Eva, whom we had already arranged to fly to London to meet quite soon. We took the bus tour of the island in a double-decker bus which had the loosest steering I have ever seen . The driver pulled to a halt whenever we met oncoming traffic to minimise the risk of veering into it uncontrollably. However the tour itself was interesting. Our tour coincided with a convoy of seemingly hundreds of tractors all, TG, going in the opposite direction. Our poor steering caused us to creep along very slowly! We woke to driving rain next morning but as that cleared away we went down to Lamlash on Arran where we had a quiet and sunny evening. We have moored in Lamlash quite often but I have never yet seen a saffron clothed Buddhist monk walking around over by the monastery on the island. Are there actually any there?
We went over to Troon the following day where we had the OBM repaired (it needed a new impeller), the spray hood zip replaced (well done ’Jessail’ who did exactly what they promised to do) and the pipe work of the aft toilet replaced, done well and efficiently with no audible swearing by young Walter who works for Hugh and Neil at ‘West Coast Yacht Services’. All-in-all a good ‘pit stop’. We met David W (ICC), there to sell his boat, and had an excellent meal with him at ‘Scotts’ overlooking the marina, where we also managed to get a Wifi connection. However our real reason for being at Troon was to leave the boat whilst we flew to London to meet Eva. This we did – and she is gorgeous! We were back at Troon and on the boat at 00.30 on Fri 16th July. The weather was so quiet that I decided to head straight off to the Crinan Canal. We left at 01.15. Ann went to bed and I took F2 through the night to Lochgilphead. I woke Ann at 07.15 and we anchored in the harbour to wait for the canal’s sea lock to open. The wind had now freshened considerably from the north and going into the lock at 08.30 was tricky. On leaving we suffered a bad scratch on the hull and later we hit a lock gate as a mooring rope came loose. I was obviously tired and things weren’t going well! We stopped for the night at Cairnbaan and had a nice meal in the hotel and a quiet night’s sleep. The next day I hired a ‘pilot’ – really a man who goes ahead by car to open the gates and take ropes. I should have hired him at Lochgilphead. |
The CCC Centenary Cruise beginsWe picked up Hazel B (ICC) at Crinan and stayed the night in the sea basin. In the morning we went around the headland to the Crinan Yard where we refuelled before heading to Ardfern about 90 minutes away. This was the starting point for the CCC CC. We were directed, very efficiently, to a berth and collected our instructions and goodies. Here too we met up with Night Watch, the beautiful boat belonging to our CCA friend David T, with whom we were to spend quite a lot of time over the next two weeks. There were lots of friends and acquaintances to catch up with. After speeches that evening there was a very good buffet supper, spoiled only by the very long wait to get it. However many enjoyed the queue, happily in fine weather, as they could meet and talk with friends!
There was a fun race north to Tobermory the next day but we didn’t take part – officially. We did have the odd tacking battle with other boats but they didn’t know that we weren’t participating! The tide swept us north past Luing and Seil and along the Sound of Mull. The wind became fluky near Duart Point and we were content to motor on leaving the racers to find such wind as they could. We decided to avoid Tobermory and the bulk of the fleet. Instead we went around to Loch Sunart and crept into the lovely anchorage to the east of Carna Island. |
 With others we headed for Ardfern from Crinan  The wind for the race to Tobermory became flukey |
The view to the north across Loch Sunart from the Carna Island anchorage
The CCC Centenary SunflowerNext morning we went around to Loch Drumbuie to take part in the Cruise sunflower. I had had major misgivings about the wisdom of this event but again I was wrong. It was extraordinarily well organised and, in ideal conditions, with no pressure at all on the boats the circle was built up during the afternoon, until at 18.00 it was closed with 183 yachts. The CCC had hoped for 200 but 183 was impressive enough. The excellent video of the event, (see below), some of it taken from high on our mast on YouTube is worth watching
|
 Friends and neighbours |
|
On to Loch Muidart and the Royal CC party
Faustina II rounding Ardnamurchan to windward in a good breeze
We stayed the night in Loch Drumbuie and next day we went north around Ardnamurchan Point to join the RCC’s raft up in Loch Moidart. It was a hard thrash round the headland against a very fresh northerly and we were pleased to be able to bear off to Loch Moidart North Harbour’s ‘interesting’ entrance.
In those rough and rather wet conditions the entrance might have been hard to establish but happily I had been given the exact lat/long WP and that made it much easier and less stressful. It’s one of those places that is easy when you have done it once. About 15 boats had made it for the RCC’s party which took place on three rafted boats in driving rain. It was a great party even if waterproofs were the dress of the day.
We stayed put the next day but went in our RIB to the harbour entrance where there is beautiful coral sand on the islands. We collected a bucket full of fine mussels and gave many of them away before having the rest for lunch. Then, at near HW, we took the RIB through to the inner harbour. I dropped the ladies off at a track that I thought would take them to another place where I would meet them. It didn’t – and I had to go back in the hope of their being still at the track. In fact they had quickly realised that there was no way through (Ann’s note: we thought he was tired of us and was trying to lose us!) and were making their way along the shore scrambling over large rocks in the hope that I might reappear! Drinks on Alakush (Jennifer G – ICC) quickly reset the equilibrium
 Loch Moidart North Harbour by day..... |
|
To the Outer Hebrides
Next day, 23 July, we had a fine sail in a good friendly SWly breeze that took us out between Eigg and Muck towards North Harbour on Barra in the Outer Hebrides. At the last minute I decided to turn north into Eriskay harbour which we found chock-a-block with Cruise boats. As we arrived an American boat left and we slotted into her place – having had a couple of slight dramas with the anchor winch into which a line had become entwined. Later I walked the 1 1/2 miles over the hill to the excellent community shop to get bread and milk. The weather was vile on the following day, so we stayed where we were, although at midday we did brave the elements (by then more mist and drizzle than heavy rain), and walked to the shop. This time I had to lug potatoes and other heavy stuff back to the boat. (Ann’s note: He does like to eat!) .
The Cruise beach barbecue on Vatersay
Sunday was BBQ day at Vatersay. We took on water at Eriskay jetty and then sailed the 12 miles down to Vatersay. Taking the shorter more ‘interesting’ route, we arrived in time for the BBQ which started at 13.00. I counted 103 yachts anchored off the beautiful beach. Quite a sight. The meal was provided from several BBQs all operated by local people who produced a wonderful meal. Steaks, chicken, beef burgers, langoustines and side dishes of salads etc plus a pudding. The gentle offshore wind provided entertainment as dinghies floated off on the rising tide and had to be collected. The sun shone and a local group played suitable music on bagpipes and accordions. All very happy and well organised.
Fog and Tiree
By contrast the next day gave us dense fog! Well this was Scotland! For the most part we kept the fog with a southwesterly 10-15 knot wind that took us nicely to the Gunna Channel between Coll and Tiree. At that point the fog which had been clearing came on thick again as we round the north east corner of Tiree and worked our way in the harbour at Gott Bay. We had arranged to meet Night Watch here and we anchored close by them near to the pier. After a lazy lunch on board Hazel and I accepted a lift in their RIB from Night Watch and went ashore for a walk. It still wasn’t pleasant weather and we could see very little as we walked to the shops. Tiree has the most wind of anywhere in the UK - an average of 17 knots throughout the year. I believe it. Next day Night Watch went to visit Staffa whilst we went straight to the Bull Hole opposite Iona. We had planned to spend the night there with Night Watch but the wind was coming straight into the anchorage and we mutually decided that going round to the east to Loch Lathaich made more sense. We joined about 10 other yachts anchored there. We provided dinner on board for the crew of six from Night Watch.
The Abbey on Iona
Iona and Puilladobhrain
Next morning we went to Iona and I landed my crew north of the Abbey. I saw that they were having a hard time getting along the shore and so I moved Faustina south to be nearer the ferry jetty. However I wasn’t happy with that (it was too rough to use the RIB safely) and so I returned north and later, after they had been to the Abbey, I collected them from an old boathouse that had a lane going down to it. Much easier. From there we sailed along the south coast of Mull in dreary weather conditions and entered Puilladobhrain, that lovely anchorage best known for the Atlantic Bridge over the hill by the pub. Not totally unexpectedly, the main anchorage was full. However the outer section was empty and it looked ok to me, so we anchored and radioed Night Watch to suggest that they would be fine there too. They came on later and anchored nearby, and we had a fine duck supper with them.
 Crew meeting on the Atlantic Bridge |
|
The RHYC Mussel Lunch in Loch Spelve
In the morning Night Watch’s RIB towed us to the place from whence the path goes to the pub. We walked over to the ‘Bridge over the Atlantic’ and took photos. We tried to get a drink and some petrol in a can but failed on both counts as their power was off. A line had come down somewhere. However they did produce some scones and we all returned to Faustina and ate the scones and told awful jokes. Then we set off across the Firth of Lorne to Loch Spelve about 10 miles away. At the north end about 60 yachts were assembling and the crews went ashore to the ‘Mussel Lunch’ provided by the Royal Highland YC in aid of the RNLI. It was superb. The arrangements were faultless and the mussels, cooked by a French chef, were amazing, done four different ways, all delicious. There was no shortage of mussels or wine and it was really only the arrival of large midges as the afternoon wore on that sent people retreating to their yachts.
We were away very early next morning as we had arranged to be hauled out at the yard at Kerrera in order to have a leaking stern gland replaced. To cut a long story very short the haul out went well but the contract engineer who should have done the job had a fit of pique and decided that he didn’t want to do the job! As I write this near winter haul out time, the leak is still there, getting worse. It is now a winter job! However a few days later the yard arranged to renew all the pipe work in the forward toilet – and that was done cheerfully and well by a yard employee.
We were away very early next morning as we had arranged to be hauled out at the yard at Kerrera in order to have a leaking stern gland replaced. To cut a long story very short the haul out went well but the contract engineer who should have done the job had a fit of pique and decided that he didn’t want to do the job! As I write this near winter haul out time, the leak is still there, getting worse. It is now a winter job! However a few days later the yard arranged to renew all the pipe work in the forward toilet – and that was done cheerfully and well by a yard employee.
The final Cruise events
The Cruise ended in Kerrera with a ‘happy hour’ of whisky supplied in copious amounts by the Oban Distillery. This was followed by a sit down dinner in one of the yard’s sheds. This was a good meal well served although a few of us were talking too much and failed to get any pudding. No matter. The final event was an excellent fireworks display that lasted about 15 minutes. It had been a good cruise in company. Nearly 200 boats had been involved but not all of them had gone to all the events and in truth we never felt as though we were swamped by the numbers that came to each event. The weather had been kind (calm for the sunflower, sunny for the beach barbecue and otherwise not too extreme) and the organisation had been well above average for this sort of event. We enjoyed it.
By ourselves
Hazel B left us after the cruise and from then on it was just Ann and me. We weren’t at all ambitious in what we tried to do. We went to Puilladobhrain for a few days to wait until the yard could do the forward toilet pipes. Then we went up the Sound of Mull to Lochaline where we went ashore to visit the gardens at Ardtornish (incidentally meeting its owner walking the grounds.) We then planned to visit Tobermory but when we were nearly thereafter a very pleasant sail up the Sound it became apparent that it would be a nice day to round Ardnamurchan again. This we did and we went into Loch Moidart for a second time.
We stayed there for a couple of days. We walked along the shore line and past the reservoir that used to power a saw mill and which was now covered in water lilies to the ‘village’ and met the Factor. Later we took the RIB to visit Tioram Castle in the south harbour. Ann had read a book about how a nobleman’s wife had been briefly imprisoned there on her way to a more lasting captivity on St Kilda whilst he concentrated on his mistress. They did things in style in those days! From Moidart we went to Arisaig and from there to Scavaig, that most impressive and intimidating anchorage close under the steep sides of the Cuillin Hills. It’s a wonderful place and we walked up to the fresh water Loch Coruisk nearby that flows into the sea here. It’s not a place to spend a night if the weather is at all ‘iffy’ and we decided to go round the corner and spend the night in the north harbour on Soay. This can only be entered above half tide. I went ashore to explore and look around Gavin Maxwell’s old Shark Factory where in the late ‘40s he massively reduced the numbers of basking sharks that swam in these waters. The boiler is still there and so is the building, albeit in poor repair, and it was very difficult and wet trying to walk around. I wanted to visit the nearby ‘world’s first solar powered telephone exchange’ but I gave up – too difficult. Early in the morning we dragged and somehow managed to miss a large yacht moored directly downwind of us. I woke up and brought the boat under control again not very far from the bar at the entrance. We were lucky.
We stayed there for a couple of days. We walked along the shore line and past the reservoir that used to power a saw mill and which was now covered in water lilies to the ‘village’ and met the Factor. Later we took the RIB to visit Tioram Castle in the south harbour. Ann had read a book about how a nobleman’s wife had been briefly imprisoned there on her way to a more lasting captivity on St Kilda whilst he concentrated on his mistress. They did things in style in those days! From Moidart we went to Arisaig and from there to Scavaig, that most impressive and intimidating anchorage close under the steep sides of the Cuillin Hills. It’s a wonderful place and we walked up to the fresh water Loch Coruisk nearby that flows into the sea here. It’s not a place to spend a night if the weather is at all ‘iffy’ and we decided to go round the corner and spend the night in the north harbour on Soay. This can only be entered above half tide. I went ashore to explore and look around Gavin Maxwell’s old Shark Factory where in the late ‘40s he massively reduced the numbers of basking sharks that swam in these waters. The boiler is still there and so is the building, albeit in poor repair, and it was very difficult and wet trying to walk around. I wanted to visit the nearby ‘world’s first solar powered telephone exchange’ but I gave up – too difficult. Early in the morning we dragged and somehow managed to miss a large yacht moored directly downwind of us. I woke up and brought the boat under control again not very far from the bar at the entrance. We were lucky.
 F2 anchored in Scavaig |
 John and Ann rowing back to the boat |
 F23 anchored in Soay noreth harbour off Gavin Maxwell's old shaark farm |
 Gavin Maxwell's shark farm boiler |
From there it was a short downwind run to Kinloch on Rum. It wasn’t easy to get the anchor to take a good hold here but finally I was satisfied that we wouldn’t go ‘walking’ again and we went ashore to walk a nature trail. We had just missed the start of the guided tour of the ‘Castle’ hotel with its famous ‘orchestration’ machine but we had a nice though very wet walk. A wet day had now become sunny and warm and we enjoyed tea and cakes in the community hall.
Heading home
The next stop was Tobermory. En route we passed Ardnamurchan Point where in the calm water we saw about a dozen basking sharks. We stopped to look at them, as did several other yachts. Incredible creatures – huge and harmless. One opened its enormous mouth as we passed. In Tobermory I was glad to get a berth and one that faced the wind as it had suddenly become very fresh. £27 seemed cheap at the price given the conditions that developed. We were able to walk off the boat and go ashore to eat and in the company of two men from an Irish flagged yacht from Wexford that we had met, we had a splendid meal at the MishDish, the restaurant now associated with the Mishnish bar. Next day I worked on the ICC website (as there was free Wifi available) and then after a crab lunch we sailed gently down the Sound to Lochaline once more. It was a dull afternoon and we had a quiet ‘dull’ evening on board just reading and eating. Occasionally we watch a DVD film on the laptop as a way of passing the long evenings.
The raised beaches on Jura
Next day, 12 August, we sailed south with a northwesterly 4 or 5 that, together with a fair tide, sped us along. Shortly after passing Duart Castle the wind became less strong but the tide held and we were soon passing the south end of the Garvellachs and closing on the coast of Jura. We were really interested to see the large number of ‘raised beaches’ there are on Jura. Why have so many survived the 10,000 plus years since they were created here rather than elsewhere? The wind was fresh again by the time we gybed into the entrance of East Loch Tarbert Jura at 15.30. It was LWS and the rocks were all there to be seen, which made navigation easier. We finally anchored in about 4m off Cruib Lodge where the anchor held like a limpet, though I still deployed 30m of chain due the strong wind and the evil looking rocks all about! As so often happened this year, the evening weather was fine and sunny though it was also cold. Too windy to think of going ashore and there didn’t seem a lot to go ashore for!.
The next day developed into a marathon. Plan A was simply to go to Port Ellen at the south end of Islay. We carried the tide down through the beautiful Sound of Islay making very nearly 12 knots at one point. We reached the Ardmore Islands and went down the ‘corridor’ inside them and anchored where it opens up. There we stayed for two hours in glorious sunshine just enjoying it and the scenery. There was not as much wild life as the books had promised though there were lots of seals.
We went on to Port Ellen, having to motor the last part to make progress against a fresh westnorthwest wind. We went inside Texa Island and rounded into the Port Ellen bay. We didn’t fancy anchoring in the large open bay and the marina looked to be more than full – so the decision was made to use the fair wind and go on to Rathlin Island – Plan B. This we then did. It was a great sail, bumpy but fast, only slightly spoiled by an interesting noise coming from the steering when I turned it to Port. We arrived at 19.00 and went alongside the pontoon that is now such a welcome feature of Rathlin harbour.
Next morning, Sat 14 August, we walked to the East Lighthouse in warm sunshine and then had coffee at the pub. In the afternoon I serviced most of the winches and that evening we treated ourselves to a meal at the Manor House that was well served and delicious.
I had allowed the batteries to run very low overnight and it was therefore with some trepidation that I went to start the engine in the morning. However all was well and it started nicely as it always does. We carried the tide quickly down the Antrim coast and tucked into on Chapel Bay the Copelands at mid-afternoon. There we ‘fell amongst thieves’ as we joined a wine drinking soporific sunny and calm afternoon on board Harold (ICC) and Vivienne B’s Gentle Spirit with Patrick (ICC) and Mary K. They left at 17.00 as did all the other boats but we stayed firmly attached to a large ball of seaweed with a lot of anchor chain deployed – which was quite alright as there was absolutely not a breath of wind all night. For supper we ate the venison steaks that we had bought on Mull and they were very good and tender.
We returned to Portaferry next day to end our summer cruise. We had done nothing very dramatic. In all the weeks we had been away we had gone to the Hebrides for only two days and had not got further north that the south coast of Skye. The weather had been very Scottish in character – no better or worse that we had expected though not as good as we had hoped. The boat’s heater had earned its keep during the cold evenings. All the good weather this year was in the two months before we set off. However it had been a good cruise simply because we had enjoyed it. ‘Nuf said!
The next day developed into a marathon. Plan A was simply to go to Port Ellen at the south end of Islay. We carried the tide down through the beautiful Sound of Islay making very nearly 12 knots at one point. We reached the Ardmore Islands and went down the ‘corridor’ inside them and anchored where it opens up. There we stayed for two hours in glorious sunshine just enjoying it and the scenery. There was not as much wild life as the books had promised though there were lots of seals.
We went on to Port Ellen, having to motor the last part to make progress against a fresh westnorthwest wind. We went inside Texa Island and rounded into the Port Ellen bay. We didn’t fancy anchoring in the large open bay and the marina looked to be more than full – so the decision was made to use the fair wind and go on to Rathlin Island – Plan B. This we then did. It was a great sail, bumpy but fast, only slightly spoiled by an interesting noise coming from the steering when I turned it to Port. We arrived at 19.00 and went alongside the pontoon that is now such a welcome feature of Rathlin harbour.
Next morning, Sat 14 August, we walked to the East Lighthouse in warm sunshine and then had coffee at the pub. In the afternoon I serviced most of the winches and that evening we treated ourselves to a meal at the Manor House that was well served and delicious.
I had allowed the batteries to run very low overnight and it was therefore with some trepidation that I went to start the engine in the morning. However all was well and it started nicely as it always does. We carried the tide quickly down the Antrim coast and tucked into on Chapel Bay the Copelands at mid-afternoon. There we ‘fell amongst thieves’ as we joined a wine drinking soporific sunny and calm afternoon on board Harold (ICC) and Vivienne B’s Gentle Spirit with Patrick (ICC) and Mary K. They left at 17.00 as did all the other boats but we stayed firmly attached to a large ball of seaweed with a lot of anchor chain deployed – which was quite alright as there was absolutely not a breath of wind all night. For supper we ate the venison steaks that we had bought on Mull and they were very good and tender.
We returned to Portaferry next day to end our summer cruise. We had done nothing very dramatic. In all the weeks we had been away we had gone to the Hebrides for only two days and had not got further north that the south coast of Skye. The weather had been very Scottish in character – no better or worse that we had expected though not as good as we had hoped. The boat’s heater had earned its keep during the cold evenings. All the good weather this year was in the two months before we set off. However it had been a good cruise simply because we had enjoyed it. ‘Nuf said!
